peteski

1955? While I'm no spring chicken, I wasn't even born for several more years. In my experience with "plastic safe" paint strippers, except maybe for 99% Isopropanol, and the Castro Super Clean, all others can cause some damage (for the reasons I mentioned in my previous reply to you). But even those (especially the alcohol) might affect certain urethane resins (while being safe for polystyrene). And also I have not found a truly universal stripper which would safely strip any type/brand of paint from any plastic. That is what I have about half a dozen of various paint strippers I use for plastic models.

You might have just found it, but it has been around for decades. Originally it was a Floquil Company product. I can also guarantee if you were to look through this entire thread, you will find several mentions of Easy-Lift-Off (or ELO) in those hundreds of posts. There is also Scalecoat Wash-Away paint remover (another hobby paint stripper), although the state of the Scalecoat paint line is currently in question (I have few bottles of it stashed away).

Well not quite, but they are somewhat related. Don't swear! DOT3 Brake fluid is Ethylene Glycol or Alkyl Polyglycol Ether Esters. ELO is Isobutyl Alcohol and Glycol Monobutyl Ether. So no, not quite the same thing. Internet and availability of online MSDS makes it easier nowadays to find out ingredients of chemicals we used in our hobbies. Then there are also multiple formulas of plastic used for kits. There is Polystyrene, and ABS, then there are variations of each type. They all can behave differently when exposed to "plastic safe" paint strippers. Best to test compatibility first. Also the length of exposure and the temperature of the stripping solution will affect the results. Good modeler is a well informed modeler.

If you guys checked the topics listing, this is being discussed in

You know guys, this thread was about server migration. The slowness is unrelated to this, and it is currently actively discussed in

When I was growing up in Poland in the '70s, my uncle owned the next generation Trabant 601S. I remember the time there was a crack in the trunk lid and he used epoxy to glue it. I remember it so clearly because he took couple of pieces of my cousin's wooden erector set to not mar the paint when he clamped the pieces together. And on one of the vacation trips he used my aunt's thin metal fingernail file to clean the spark plug gap when the car started running crappy. The old Polish ingenuity. Make do with what you have.

I believe that most smart phone cameras (what majority of models use for model snapshots) and even average digital snapshot cameras do not have a "bulb" setting which allows the photographer to leave the shutter open afor as long as they want. DSLR cameras are usually needed for that feature.

Yeah this one was easy for me, and brought back some memories too.

What I read on the Interwebs is that the companies making the 1:1 items are worried that if some tyke swallows a tire or otherwise hurts themselves by playing with a branded model, because the brand name is on the model the lawyers will sue the company making the 1:1 products for millions of dollars in damages. We live in litigious world, so that doesn't seem too far fetched for me.

The "glue" is not really the main thing which keeps decal film adhered to the surface. Mostly it is natural cling. That glue is dextrose-based water-soluble adhesive which mostly remains on the wet backing paper. Whatever little is left on the decal film might help with adhesion a little. You should be able to apply the decals inside the "glass". If you worried about adhesion, carefully flip the decal film over on the wet backing paper, so some of the glue will stick to the front surface, then apply it to the inside of the glass.

Got it! Thanks. I guess I was trying to read more into what you wrote.

I do know what wraps are, but I just didn't understand the meaning of "lets call it dark rust orange." That description seemed odd to me. Like you didn't really want to describe what it looked like. Was the wrap a photo-realistic depiction of a rusty metal surface? Otherwise, what would be wrong with a dark rust orange colored vehicle? At least this is how my brain saw your comment. Seemed that you were giving a hint, and I just don't get it.

That's why I mentioned that the eBay thing should be just one of several sources of model desirability research. I was not suggesting looking for outrageously high selling prices, just the general volume of kit's eBay sales. The other methods mentioned earlier were getting feedback from show visitors, and of course online forums. But both of those are also very small sample of potential kit buyers out there. Manufacturer has to produce tens of thousands of kits to make some profit. The more data is available about potential sales, the better informed decision the manufacturer can make.

Not trying to be argumentative but I just read all Dave's posts in this thread and nowhere he asks for all types of forum strangeness to be reported here. Same in the "Forum now unusable — SOOO slow" (locked) thread where he pointed members here for reporting sluggish website behavior. Speaking of which (and bringing this thread back on topic), the forum has been quite sluggish for me this morning.

What I think would be helpful to estimate whether to reissue some older kits would be for them to monitor sold eBay listings of the original models. If they fetch high prices or show bidding wars, there is a good chance that a new run would sell well. Not to use that as a sole reason for reissue, but use those numbers along with other request they get for reissues to estimate whether a new run is justified.

Are you sure they were personal or private messages and not public messages? Both can be used for communicating between members, and public ones (as the name implies) are viewable by everybody. I accidentally sent a public message in the past without realizing ('til later) that it was public. Anyway, this should have been in a separate thread as it has nothing to do with the subject of this thread.

That must have gone way over my head as I have no idea what that means.

Centerless grinding.

Ah, perfect for those golf safaris, or when the ball slices off deep into the woods!

Neah. To me Rivians look like any other contemporary SUV or pickup. The only strange thing are those vertical Maxi-pad headlights. Cybertruck is much much stranger and uglier. I saw a black one and drove behind a stainless one recently. I don't know why anybody would want one. Well, just to be "different" I guess.

Tenax-7R and Ambroid Pro Weld are basically Methylene Chloride. You can get a quart size container of it on Amazon for less than cost of few tiny bottles of those no-longer available cements. I you still want small bottles, try Tack-it II plastic welder from https://www.jmhobbysupply.com/ It is also Methylene Chloride and comes in the same bottle that Tenax-7R did. My local hobby shop carries it in those 1oz. bottles for $5.99.

Unfortunately that is a real possibility. Spitefulness seems to be norm nowadays, since there seems not to be any repercussions or punishment for bad deeds.

That reminded me that back in the day companies making plastic parts used to reuse chopped up sprue material to mold some plastic items not usually visible (like internal parts or bottom covers of radios, electric clocks, etc.) . When the chopped up sprues had multiple colors, the molded parts had a marbled or swirled look them.

There is *THAT* much size difference between the stock kit part and the photoetched one?! Makes me wonder which is closer to the correct size. The plastic one doesn't look half bad.

I would speculate that it is a very good possibility. Model companies seem to do their share of using each other's products. Also keep in mind that mine is around 30 years old, while Ron's bottle shows copyright 2018 (is 6 years or less). I believe Ron's has a plastic tube applicator.