peteski

Alclad II Copper has very finely ground particles so when applied it looks like smooth piece of copper. It looks like raw (unpolished) copper. Pretty much all Alclad II metallic paints are designed to look like actual metal (not sparkly metallic or "mica" car body paints). They are also airbrush-ready.

But, but, but, you get so much more paint in the Rustoleum can! You know, many modelers can be very "frugal" (for various reasons). To me modeling is a hobby, so spending extra dollars to get the right supplies or tools makes perfect sense. I want enjoyment, not frustration. I'm sure someone will say that they are on limited budget. Well then, unfortunately do what you must, but then don't complain if the results are less than optimal.

This model is coming along very nicely. I also like the color (as it is rendered on my computer monitor). And you are correct that cameras (film and digital) have issues rendering colors accurately, but the lighting too plays a big part in rendering colors accurately. Also, camera's automatic white balance doesn't always work as one would expect. I usually manually set color balance to the lightning I use. Using high CRI value lights also makes a difference. Most accurate lighting is natural sunlight, but even with that the camera's image sensor will not be as accurate as human eye for correctly rendering certain colors.

Back in those days, WBCN was a great radio station. I had their bumper sticker on my '76 Camaro. I remember stopping around Boston's South Station in the early morning (on my way to work) by the WBCN van where "Tank" was giving out WBCN "lick me" T-shirts. I still have it, but I don't fit in it anymore.

Funny that you mentioned that column Tim. After reading it (and remembering all the bad reputations those kits had), I decided to see if I could find one and take up the challenge of building that kit (which the column mentioned is an excellent and very detailed model). I went on eBay and was surprised that there were plenty of them up for sale/auction. Not just one or two, but a whole bunch. After looking them over I decided to get a shrink wrapped one for $50. I realize tht it is likely a lot more than their cost when new, but in today's world $50 for a well detailed kit doesn't seem out of place. When I got it and broke the shrink wrap I saw that this is in fact a very good kit. The instructions also seem to be very well written. Now I'll just have to find time to do it justice. So, no need to hope for a possible reissue - git your A-M McLaren kit today!

2 years? Neah. While older cars were prone to early breakdowns and rusting, today's cars in 2 years barely need regular maintenance. Make it 10 years, then chances of breakdown would be much greater. At least that holds true with the new cars I owned in the last 18 years.

Thanks for the latest chart Justin. Very interesting and thought provoking info, especially the revenue from paints. It also clearly shows that model railroading hobby is far from dying (which, as an active model railroader I already know, but many out there think otherwise). Of course Gundam is a large revenue generator, which the first chart already showed. I suspect that good percentage of Gundam modelers are under 40 years old, and it is good to know that they aren't all just playing on their smart phones.

It appears that the problem is returning. Last few days the site is mostly fast, but from time to time (more often since yesterday) my browser hangs at various places with "waiting for "https://www.modelcarsmag.com" message for fairly long time. No problems accessing other websites.

Allison, You might not have understood the question. "Scratch built" means that the model is not assembled from a kit, but all the parts that make up the model are made by you from raw materials (like plastic sheets or cardboard or other materials). There is also another term "kit-bashed". That means your model was build using parts from multiple kits combined into one model. With kit-bashing you could also incorporate some scratch built parts in that model.

Yes, the pigment settles down in cans of any age, just like it settles down in regular paint bottles. Actually it settles even quicker since the paint in spray cans is less viscous than in brushable bottled paints. Flat paints have more pigment/flattening agent than gloss paints. If you weren't reclaiming all that pigment, that would be like using bottled paint without stirring first. I also save all those glass marbles. Not sure why, as they are too large to drop them in hobby paint jars. Maybe I'm saving them in case when I lose my marbles?

Hmm, it would be interesting to see another chart showing volumes of automotive, Gundam, aircraft, armor, wargaming, and model RR items. Not sure if that is something you can break down easily.

Thanks for clarifying. Meng mainly produces non-automotive kits, and Atlantis is also a bit of an oddball. Assuming your hobby shop mostly deals with automotive subjects. What is the pie slice between Hasegawa and MPC?

Sorry I'm not familiar with all the business accounting and marketing jargon. So in layman's terms volume means number of kits sold?

Does this represent the dollar amount collected from the sales of the company's kits or number of kits sold?

IF you don't shake the can, the pigment will be all settled on the bottom of the can. If you decant it without shaking it first (to mix the pigment back into the liquid), your paint will not work well. That is why cans have the glass marble in them - to agitate the settled pigment back into the liquid part of paint.

Since you apparently have access to that tire, why not write down all the lettering on the sidewall and post it here. Someone will likely be able to understand what it shows.

How about posting the links to those listings? Not like we are forbidden to do this here.

That makes a lot more sense. Seems that whoever created the instructions wasn't very familiar with the car's mechanical design.

Wile not an answer to your question, I'm wondering why a torque converter need an air intake? Torque converter is filled with transmission fluid.

Well, if both have similar amount of flatening agent, that is curious. I would have thought that the semi gloss clear should have half or less of the flattenign agent than the flat finish clear.

Wow! I have to ask: Are you sure you didn't mix them up? Or maybe MCW mixed up the labels? Flat clears are basically gloss clear with flattening agent mixed in. Something like talcum powder. I'm also curious: if you were to let both sit undisturbed for few days the flattening agent should settle on the bottom of the jar. Which one will show more flattening agent settled in the bottle? Should be the flat finish.

The color bleed is usually only with red or yellow color plastic, and only when using light color for the paint. It is also not just specifically with old kits. Some say that the problem doesn't exist, while others confirm that it does. There are several variables in play (including the type of paint used. It is not all cut-and-dry. When you asked for using metallic paints other than silver, what was the reason? If you want to use those as a barrier, any metallic paint might work well. Instead of asking a generic question, why not tell us more specifics? Like what kit is it, what color is it molded in, what you are planning as a final coat, and what brand/type of paint you want to use.

1. Well, look at how many fl. oz. is mentioned on the can and that is your answer (I would likely go a it larger). I never decanted an entire can. 2. The "settling" is not about being able to airbrush better. You need to understand the chemistry. The propellant gas in Testors spray paint is propane. But good portion of it is in a liquid state (just like in your grill's propane tank). As the pressure is released, some of it turns back to gas, keeping the can pressurized. When you rather abruptly release the pressure during decanting, some of the propellant remains in the liquid form for quite some time. If you were to close the jar of decanted paint, the pressure would build up (lie it does in the can). You need to keep the jar capped but unsealed to let the gas escape. I usually gently swish the paint from time to time. When I do that I can see the paint foam up when the gas gets released. How long, I have had decanted paint degas even couple of days later. Also, when decanting, the paint will foam up and turn very cold (as the propellant is released). You would be better off decanting into a larger container, then once degassed, pour it into a smaller jar/bottle. 3. If the jar has an airtight seal and it is pretty full (not much air space over the paint), it will last as long as any other paint in a jar. Spray paint is same as the stuff in the jars/bottles, except it is thinned. Lastly, if some of the binder (the resin body of the paint) seeped out, the paint's chemical balance has changed, and it might not work as well, but reading online info seems that it still works well.

That's disappointing. I thought you might be taking a survey for possible products.

The same is true for my '85 Caddy, and for pretty much all American cars with hood ornaments, probably since '50s or '60s. It was for the same reason you mentioned. The hood ornaments are sprung. True, contemporary cars have much shorter overhangs. That probably makes them more stable, and results in more usable passenger space.