peteski

Classic Plastic Model Club's 30th annual exhibition this Sunday (Oct 6th, 2024) in Lawrence MA, USA. I can't believe we have been doing this for 30 years! Come over and enjoy the show! http://classicplastic.org/CPMC-show-flyer-2024.pdf

Is TP made in China too?! The corporate greed has no limits!

This whole "unlimited" plan charging a fee for exceeding (the unlimited?) data limit makes absolutely no sense. Sounds like a lawsuit in waiting (unless there was some fine print in the that contract document people acknowledge and agree to without reading it.

But what I do (one bid at the end of the auction) is nothing difficult or involved. Instead of bidding my maximum amount early on, I just bid at the end to get the item at the lowest possible price. I'm not making any snap decisions. Remember - one bid (there is no time to make more bids). Nothing complicated. It is sort of like playing checkers - if you have a strategy, it is easier to do well.

That's pretty slick Les. Excellent choice of the rear half donor. Some conversions don't come out looks very good, but this one has excellent potential.

Sniping is not a bidding war. I only place one bid seconds before auction ends. Period. If I win, I win, if not - oh well. But If I placed the same bit few days before the auction ends, there is a big chances that the nickel-and-dimers will slowly jack up the selling price, even for the sniper. In my 24 years of buying on eBay I have learned that there are lots of those who do not understand how to try to get the item at the lowest possible price. Does it always work for me? No, but that is the chance I'm willing to take. I have done quite well over those 24 years.

Any 2-part putties which harden by chemical reaction will release heat while they set. Even Milliput epoxy heats up as it sets. The faster the material sets up, the more concentrated the heat will be. Bondo sets in just few minutes, so the heat is much more concentrated when being released in that short time. Milliput takes hours to harden, so the heating will be spread out over that time, never getting really warm. Also the thickness of the material makes a difference. The thicker the material is, the more heat is generated in that area.

If the top surface of the hood and the entire car body were painted with the same exact primer and color paints I find what happened very weird. Unless maybe you sprayed the underside of the hood with a very heavy wet coat of the top color paint, but used lighter coats on the other (undamaged) surfaces??

Don't count your chickens yet Lee . . . the snipers are coming. I know, when I used to bid on eBay auctions, I was a sniper. If you really want the item, place another bid bidding the highest price you are willing to spend. You original high bid amount will not go up (that's how eBay's proxy bidding works). At least you will now have chance to outbid the snipers when they come at the end of the auction. Many eBay members just don't understand how the proxy bidding works. Lets say, your original bid was $10 and you placed another bid of a $100, if nobody else bids on that auction, you will still get it for your lowest bid ($10).

Like I mentioned in the other recent thread about what model I would like to see, Maserati Ghibli is one of my top choices. Such good looking car! Of course Volvo P1800 (already mentioned) is another one of my wants. Then I would also like to see Jaguar 420. There is old 1:32 scale kit, but a nice fully detailed 1:24 scale one would be really good. How about DeTomaso Mangusta? Or Iso Grifo And more pedestrian car which will likely never be made as a 1:24 scale kit: VW 1600TL fastback. That was our 1st family car. Also, any of the Rolls-Royces from the '50s or '60s.

While storage space on hosting sites is getting cheaper, you still have to pay for it. In this instance the forum is tied to a publishing company, so there are obviously some funds available to cover the cost of running the forum. Many forums are standalone ventures, often hosted on "free" websites, so the amount of "free" storage space is limited. Photos take a lot more space than just text-based posts. I mentioned "free" because in reality the ads shown while browsing the forum actually generate some revenue to cover the costs on this and other forums.

There is UPS, FedEx, and DHL. None are perfect, and USPS is likely the least expensive.

Was that forum part of https://www.modelmotorcars.com/ ?

Seems that the problem is not with the aerosol propellant, but with the chemical composition of the paint. Tamiya already sells couple of lines of bottled paints.

Priming every part seems like such a waste of time for me, but since it is a hobby, if someone enjoys doing that, the more power to them. To me there is absolutely on reason to do that, plus as I mentioned earlier, every additional coat of the 1:1 scale paints (including that primer) adds to the totally out-of-scale thickness of paint applied to our smaller scale models. The thinner the paint coating is on the model, the the more realistic the model will look. That's my theory, it works for me, and I have not reason to change. But I use old-school solvent-based paints which adhere well to bare plastic. Many modelers today are using water-based acrylic paints which might need a primer coat which will provide better bond with plastic.

Sorry Dave, must have been someone else.

Didn't you in the past defend the USPS that this seemingly random movements are part of their efficient routing logistics? Or am I confusing you with someone else?

I stuff hollow rubber tires with foam backer rod from a hardware store. It comes in various diameters. Less messy than urethane foam, but still stiff enough for the tires to retain their shape. But I use it on regular width tires. I imagine with wide tires you would likely have to use 2 rods inserted side by side.

The silver area does not have raised chrome strips and satin metal in between. It is a flat panel with alternating shiny and satin stripes. But on many models the shiny stripes are actually raised.

Yup, like this 1909 Baker Electric.

We're all going to (English language) hell in a handbasket! I notice all this, even though English is my second language. Latest irk of mine is the word "ideate". Who the hack came up with that one?! Then there is "ask" used instead of "question" or "request".

Very good. BTW, clear styrene is not the optimal material for model windows. PET or PETG (like Vivak) are a better choice.

When I use mild solvent-based paints (Testors, Tamiya), I avoid using primers as much as possible. To me the fewer coats of out-of-scale-thickness paints, the more realistic the model looks. But many modelers use hotter paints, and with those primer is required, or they will attack bare plastic. Water based paints also require primer as most do not adhere well to bare plastic

Thanks for the info Martin. The photos just looked so darn good, I had to ask. Yes wide depth of field will make a model photos more realistic, plus whatever enhancements you use, make it even better. With (D)SLR cameras and wider angle lenses which can stop down to high f-stop (like 22 or higher), you can achieve pretty wide depth of field without resorting to focus stacking. Very nice!

In your initial post you asked for mirror - something that shows undercarriage. This has neither, and it is more like a mini-diorama, but depending on the people running the contest might be allowed just as a display stand for a model. That would be something you would have to ask about before entering the contest.