peteski

Water? Is that some sort of new Milliput 2-part putty? The older one I have is 2-part epoxy putty and it does not get along with water at all. Just like any other epoxy putties or adhesives - water and epoxy do not mix. Well, you can use water on its surface to prevent it from sticking to things, but not to make thinner.

Yes, standard plastic cements are useless for sticking to metal (BMF). A thin bead of epoxy (clear glue) applied carefully to the edge of the window should work, or instead epoxy use canopy glue (which is white but dries crystal clear). Canopy glue is water based to it is easier to clean up if something goes wrong. Trevor's advice of using clear paint or Future Floor Finish (which is basically water based acrylic clear) is also good advice. And if the rear window does not fit because it is too large then carefully sand the edges until it fits. It might not fit due to the added thickness of the paint and BMF in the window opening. Manufacturers usually do not take that into consideration when designing a kit.

Good point, but it was likely a global corporate design with input from designers in Europe and U.S.

Obviously is a European car with the looks of its contemporary American Ford Mustang. I always earn new things here.

While that's funny, the solvent which turns the solid plastic into a liquid Goo *HAS TO* evaporate to get the plastic back into its hard state. Since liquid (which evaporates) takes up some volume, I guarantee that there will be shrinkage (even if the water was not cold).

That is an excellent question for Joann Fabrics management and lawyers. I have no clue.

You could use CA glue and some mild-acting accelerator (like BSI brand) to fill the mistake. Then sand and rescribe the fixed area within few hours of the glue hardening. CA glue continues to harden over time, but within few hours it will be about the same hardness as the surrounding styrene. But also don't do it right away. It will be too soft. Wait about an hour before working in it. Good thing is that CA glue (like 2-part putties) desn't shrink like other putties or Goo which use solvent that evaporates.

They key word here is "was".

Thanks for confirming that any Lye-based product like oven cleaner or several others will strip the metalization (and even the clear undercoat). With 250+ posts in this thread it has probably been mentioned over a dozen times.

I believe the goal here is not to have a solid-color textured roof but have it finished in the wild paisley colors in shown in the initial post. If that's applied as a decal, any texture would have to be a clear coat. Personally, in 1:24/25 scale to me any visible texture would be out of scale. Just a coat of semigloss clear would likely look realistic.

That is a good idea for 90 deg. cuts. I have a miter box which uses the same aluminum extruded shape as yours but in mine the slots for the saw blade are much narrower. Mine is made (or packaged) by X-ACTO.

I successfully use sharpened brass tubing punches to cut out gauges printed on paper (either directly or as decals). For backing surface I use one of those self-healing hobby mats. It is hard enough not to yield under pressure, but soft enough not to run the edge of my brass tube punch. EDIT: I think I sound clarify my method. I don't use the sharpened-end tubing as a punch, but more like a hole saw. I put the tube over the decal laying on the cutting mat, then place the tube over the image I want to cut. Then while pressing down on the tube I also spin it until I cut all the way through.

That's a bad news. Some time ago I bought a very nice 3D printed wire wheels and front suspension upgrade for Revell Jaguar XK-E and looking at their website, they had many other very useful items available. Like you, I hope someone else takes over their operation. I wonder why the business closed.

My local hobby shop has few bottles in stock.

I have a larger version of that tool made by Olfa for scoring acrylic. The blade itself has asimilar shape but it is larger and double ended. I'm also surprised how a blade made of hard steel got dull while being used on soft plastic. I thought it would remain sharp for a very long time and possibly only need replacement if the blade broke

LOL! If someone was keeping score, it seems that you're now the one with the last word. Funny how things work out.

I'm not familiar with the glue name you mentioned but as others mentioned, for cast polyurethane or 3D printed resin models CA glue (super-glue) or epoxy should work. Make sure that the parts you are trying to glue are very clean (free or mold release agent or other contamination).

That makes sense.

So it must be pressurized inside the frame, correct?

Congratulations Topher! I'm curious as to the origins of the name Rabell.

Ok, I'll bite. Why nitrogen and how exactly it would indicate a frame crack? It is not like nitrogen is a liquid die which would seep out of the crack. It is a gas. Or was the gas pressurized in the airtight frame and they would check if the pressure dropped after a race? The ambient air is 78% nitrogen. Why not just use plain atmospheric air?

Well Future itself (or whatever its current name is) is a glossy Acrylic Finish (not polish as Bill mentioned), so yes, ammonia will likely affect any of the other water-based acrylic paints modelers seem to be using more and more. It should not harm any old-school organic solvent based "stinky" lacquers or enamels.

Bill, my exact statement was "To me sanding the a smooth primer coat is a waste of time. " I guess you missed the "to me" part. I have models which won awards at the shows with the paint applied over bare plastic (no primer at all) or unsanded primer. I'm happy with them. Like I said "to me". Are they flawless? No way, but they make me (and show judges) happy. For example my 1:43 289 Cobra painted with unsanded Tamiya Fine White primer, nail polish (and white paint for stripes) and Testors Wet Look Clear looks pretty darn good. If your model painting technique requires sanding the primer, have at it! And I believe the manufacturers recommend sanding the primer to take down any schmutz or other tiny imperfection, not specifically to improve the paint adhesion. You know opinions are like you know what - everybody has one.

2-part epoxy adhesive hardens (polymerizes) due to a chemical reaction between part A and B, regardless of whether it sits on a non-porous surface or gets partially absorbed into the cardboard. For mixing epoxy I use a small piece of plastic with masking tape placed on top. Masking tape surface good for mixing epoxy and I can easily remove discard and replace the masking when the remains of the glue harden.

As I understand primer is a special coating designed to adhere well to bare plastic or metal surface, and also provide a suitable surface for the top coat of paint to adhere to it. Primer already has a satin surface finish perfect for maximum adhesion of the top coat. Another function of the primer/filler is to even out any imperfections in the painted surface and also provide uniform color for the top coat. No sanding should be required to further improve top coat adhesion, but if there are imperfections in the primed surface additional sanding will remove those imperfections. To me sanding the a smooth primer coat is a waste of time.