peteski

I'm surprised that someone recommends soldering white-metal kits. If the kit is actually made of what in U.S. is usually called white-metal (or Zamak), that alloy does not solder easily. If the metal in question is Pewter (tin-based alloy), then it can be soldered, but it would be quite difficult to do without melting the parts themselves. If there is some new building technique out there, I have not heard about it. Tameo most likely uses some Peter alloy. I'm experienced in soldering (bot as a hobby and professionally) and I would not consider soldering Tameo kits. Here is some reading material on Zamak: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zamak And on Pewter: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pewter I have soldered kits made using photo-etched brass parts, but that is something all together different. Most modelers use either CA (superglue) or epoxy to build metal kits. My recommendation would be to forget soldering and use adhesives.

LOL, I thought your reply meant that you still couldn't watch the video, and not that you tried the technique and it didn't live up to your expectation. I guess if your worded your reply "Tried the technique. It's not there yet". I would have gotten the clue.

That makes total sense. Quality of the JPG file (its compression) affects the file size.

Worked for me. The The embedded video plays for me in Firefox on a PC. Here is a direct link https://youtu.be/MCbirH84sqE

Clever!

How about using Tamiya "smoke" acrylic paint? Also companies which sell urethane resins also sell dyes for tinting resin. I have several dyes from Smooth-On.

Yes, one of the admins (probably @Dave Ambrose ) should be able to help you out. They are busy but they should respond within few days. If you know your user name, which part of the password reset was not "coming through"? The only thing the procedure requires is your email address and checks if you are nto a robot. Your login name is now also your email address (not the screen name). Is it possible that you no longer use the email address registered with the forum?

But it did embed.

I'm surprised that with all the part interchangeability car industry uses that they have specific non-interchangable parts made for such a low-run production vehicle. Any chance having those original ones rebuilt or maybe adapting more generic parts?

Tried them and I find they don't run true. They're not precision enough for me.

When the insulation is translucent then the color looks metallic. I have similar WW wire in blue, red and white (which looks like pearl white). And no, I don't use it for ignition wires in 1:24/25 scale.

No problem. Digital calipers have metric/imperial button on them to instantly show the measured dimension using both systems. Mine stays with the system I selected until I change it. As you mentioned, you can also keep switching between them without affecting the measurement. Basically it is a built-in unit conversion. Very handy. It is one of the most useful tools in my toolbox.

Yes, the dpi value stored in the image file is just a reference value for programs which open the file to tell them in what side to display or print them. Yes, it is mainly used for printing. I'm a bit puzzler that you mention startign from 100, but then you mention 100k (as in 100,000?). If you're curious, you could check yourself if that slider is for changing the dpi value. Resize your image to 1024 pixels across and select around 300dpi, then save it as a file called test300.jpg. Then without exiting the program re-save the same file but that time select around 72dpi, and save it as test72.jpg. If you list properties of both files the size of both should be the same or close. But it could also be for the compression setting. My graphic program allows for setting independent values for both, dpi and compression. But in my graphic editor the compression value is in a range of 0 (no compression) to 100 (highest compression which would result in smallest file size). Anyway, if you are not really interested in all those details, forget about it. I only chimed in because what you mentioned didn't make sense to me.

Yes, that is what you stated but the question was not about that big silver thing but the smaller cylindrical black item (with ribbed conical top) behind and to the right of the accumulator. If you look at the initial post that part is circled (although the red circling line is very thin and hard to see).

My vision has deteriorated over the last few years. Solution: strong illumination of my work area glasses and a headband magnifier (Optivisor with a #7 lens plate). For *REALLY* small tasks I have a stereo microscope.

An ex-wife or girlfriend? Regardless - just ignore them - maybe they'll find someone else to whine to.

Just like with any chopping tool, there is a chance on thicker cuts that the cut will not be perpendicular to the top/bottom surfaces of the part being cut.

Yes, and a $20 digital caliper. It is made of stainless steel and accurate down to 0.001" (resolution 0.0005"). It does metric too. Got it over 20 years ago at Harbor Freight. I couldn't model without that vital tool.

Never heard of Amerang until now.

The original question was for 1:24 scale (there are lots of 1:24 models out there, probably more than 1:25 scale), but for our purposes (ignition wire diameter), this is close enough.

That is so true on all counts. There is no thought put into assembling or painting a 3D printed item. Like small model cars 1:160 scale where the entire model is printed as a single part. It is an awesome testament of a 3D printing capabilities, but how the heck do you paint the interior or install "windows"? And before you say it, I'm not a fan of "liquid windows' like Microscale Kristal Klear. Fortunately many designers are starting to realize this and are printing the body separate from chassis/interior/wheels.

That makes no sense to me. The file size (the X-Y pixel dimensions) and the compression ratio are what determines the size of the file. DPI value just tells the program displaying them (or printing them) how to display or print them. An image that is 1000x500 pixels in size defined as 300dpi image will display or print as 3.3" x 1.8" picture. If defined as 72dpi image it will display or print as 13.9" X 6.9" picture. The 72dpi picture will look worse because the same number of pixels are contained in the image file, but now printed or shown "magnified" or "zoomed". But the actual file size does not change depending on what the dpi setting is defined as. If the file size of a 1024x768 photo changes depending on how you define its dpi then something makes no sense. I suspect that when you reduce the dpi the editing program resamples the number of pixels to be smaller. That is how my Corel Photo Paint works.

Well to me those look way too thick. More like garden hoses than ignition wires. But we all have different standards we go by. All that counts is that you're happy with your model.

Even standard Kynar insulated 30AWG wire wrapping wire is already oversize for 1:25 spark plug wires. The wire diameter itself is 0.010" but the total diameter with insulation, like Bob mentioned, is around 0.016-0.018". That is 0.016" X 25 = 0.4" diameter in 1:1 . Some modelers find that acceptable - I don't. You should be able to find a lot of 30AWG wire on eBay or amazon. I just looked on eBay and there is a wide range of colors available on 100' spools for about $12US each. The silicon insulated wire you found has likely even thicker diameter insulation (I use similar wire for "real" electrical wiring).

Yes, it is a 1:12 Imai kit. I built it several years ago. I replaced the plastic spokes in the front wheel with thin brass rod spokes.