peteski

LOL! The future is here!

10 minutes? You are the likely not using 5-minute epoxy because in my experience after 10 minutes while not fully hardened it is hardened enough not to adhere to anything.

Do we really have to continue going into details of bloody industrial accidents guys? This thread was about tools and techniques of cutting styrene, not citing most gruesome examples of stupidity while using power tools. If you really want, start a "gruesome accidents" thread in the off-topic section. Really.

Another option to fill the tire is to use backer rods from a hardware store. They are made from a foam material similar to pool noodles and some pipe insulation. They are available in multiple sizes and a length of it can be stuffed into the tire to spread out the sidewalls. But at this point we don't even know what is the actual problem that makes Brenton want to glue the tire to the wheel. He just mentioned "loose", not that the tire sidewalls are too narrow at the wheel.

These are likely also photoetched but just from a thicker metal.

I'm also surprised that tires have to be glued to the rims. Usually that is not necessary. But as David mentioned CA glue will work.

If they are learning from this forum they will have interesting views on which airbrush is the best and which paints are bad for the model car hobby.

They sure were. We are also lucky to still have many talented members in our club.

I miss Barry! Yes, he was a god friend and a great modeler using old-school Testors paints. He did win quite few awards for his models. Here are couple photos of Barry's models taken by me from our club's website. I am posting links because our website does not have https (secure certificate) and many browsers will not display them if I show them embedded in the message. Just click on each link. http://classicplastic.org/image/2011-BarryFadden01.jpg http://classicplastic.org/image/2014-BarryFadden01.jpg

Well, not in all instances. When modelers use a source of 3V it is usually small button cell Lithium batter (like CR2032). Those batteries are incapable of supplying current high enough to burn up most LEDs. Without getting too technical, that is because those small batteries have high internal resistance. That internal resistance acts in a way similar to an external series-connected resistor. If your 3V source was capable of supplying high current (low internal resistance), you could easily overdrive white blue and especially red and yellow LEDs. LEDs operate on current. White, blue and true green LEDs at their normal operating current develop around 3V across them, while red LEDs develop 1.7V and yellow and yellow/green around 2V. If you connect couple of AA or larger size alkaline batteries in series that will give you a source of 3.1V with with low internal resistance (they can supply large amount of current). If you connected that to a white LED, without an additional series-connected resistor it would glow very brightly. If you connected It to a red LED, it would glow extremely bright for an instant, then it would go dark after releasing its "magic smoke". Most modelers don't have any electronic background or understanding how LEDs operate and build their LED circuits based in anecdotal info find online or even in magazine articles (which are usually written by average modelers without full understanding how LEDs work).

Wow, this forum is really educational. All these years I wondered why those truck wheels had holes. For brake drum cooling maybe? No, those are hand holes. Now it all make sense. Thanks Tommy!

If I understand your statement correctly, it's not the cost John, it's the appearance. No paint will produce the finish of vacuum metalized parts. At least that is my opinion.

This is just like the recently started thread on which is the best airbrush. So many different paints out there, so many different modelers preferring one brand of paint over the other (for various reasons). In the end each of us has to decide on our own what works for us. And of course if you have been a modeler for a long time you know that even with your favorite brand, paint formulas can change and might fall out of favor.

They should be fine to use. I use similar burrs but made from Tungsten Carbide (TC). Both ceramic and TC are very hard materials and used for plastic should stay sharp for a long time.

Well, with the answers you will get in this (new, but one of many) airbrush preference threads here, you will get even more confusing info. Everybody has their favorite and with the range of airbrushes and compressors available out there, there is no general consensus out there. Enjoy the confusion! This is going to quickly obecome one of those threads you don't want to read, wanting a "fresh" perspective. Besides, with a large variety of airbrushes available, the answer depends on what are you modeling goals and techniques. I have been happily using (for about 40 years now) my Badger 200 single-action internal mix airbrush. I think it has a medium nozzle. I bought a nice Badger 155 Anthem dual action airbrush when Michaels was was closing them out selling for $29.99! But I so far I have not even used it even once. I have used dual-action airbrushes at my friend's house when we were building his model train layout. Dial action is great for weathering but when I paint my model cars I just need a miniature spray gun, so I continue using my Badger 200. For larger scale models I'll use spray can. That's my story and this is my "fresh" addition to this thread info, and if you look in one of the many similar older discussion, in some of them you will likely see a similar response from me. I really don't see a point of starting yet another "best airbrush" discussion, It is IMO pointless. If it was up to me I would either merge this thread with one of those "old" threads, or lock it.

That is an excellent summary Bob! I agree on all points. Especially on what is not often mentioned (if ever) about rinsing partially ELO-stripped body under water somehow making the subsequent stripping of the remaining paint more difficult. One other thing worth mentioning is that warm stripping solution is more potent than cold. If you work in a cool workshop, the stripping solution will be less potent than if it was warmed up to about 90 deg. F.

Yeah, that's it. There is also of course the actual automotive touch-up paint of the same color (or sold by Splash Color, MCW, or other similar vendors providing actual automotive coatings to the hobby market).

Loke others have mentioned, there is no "chrome: on the hood. Looks like the Tamiya tape lifted some sort of metallic paint sprayed onto the hood. It is pain adhesion problem. Could be several reasons for this. 1. Prep of the bare plastic part before painting. 2. If primer is used (I don't see it) the way the primer is applied (too dry) or the type of the primer used. 3. The way the paint is applied (too dry) or the type of paint used. 4. The paint was not fully dried/cured. Those are few possibilities.

I wonder if you're thinking of Cherry Black metallic (or a similar name) used on the Impala SS from the 90s. More details (like the actual name and color code) should be available on one of the color matching websites. My friend has one of those cars and it looked really good in that color.

Is there any doubt that anything made in the last several decades was made in China? And also as it was mentioned, once the package was opened and model removed, the value just dropped (even if this happens to be a a rare printing error).

It can be the plastic itself. I had this type of blister packs turn yellow even when I bought them new and nobody has ever smoked in my house. I originally suspected the UV rays doing this, but I found yellowed plastic when it was stored in a dark cardboard box. Go figure . . .

Since discussion continues here Jeff, why couldn't you repair your favorite halogen lamp? I assume it was a 12 Volt type and the light bulb was replaceable. Other than that there is just some wiring, switch and a transformer. If you go the LED route, make sure that you like the color temperature (halogen is about 3000K) and that its CRI is hopefully in the 90s.

That explains the similarity to the early Beetles.

Are you measuring by volume or weight? What kind of quantities are we talking about? I used to get successful mix of resin even in quantities of like 20 drops of each part from an eye dropper. I cast some really small items! I used to use Alumilite (back when they only carried the fast setting tan resin) but I moved on to Smooth-On. Not because Alumilite is bad - I found Smooth-On had more varieties of resins with different setting times. I think Alumilite now also has a larger variety of resins available. Yes, thorough mixing is important, but if the resin is not mixed properly you will see swirls of sticky uncured liquid in the hardened resin. Catalyst is the coffee colored liquid which if sits for several minutes develops a clear oily layer on the top surface.

Couple of things to keep in mind reviving old enamel paints. 1. You can only bring back paint which is still thick liquid. If some of it turned into gel, no thinner will get it back into liquid again. It will just be a chunky mess. Enamels not only dry by solvent evaporation but there is also a chemical reaction that takes place which is not reversible 2. If you thin the paint successfully using anything other than the original solvent, the paint will likely not be stable and will go "bad" after some time period (even in a sealed bottle).