peteski

The forum behaves correctly on the other computer - that is why I can post from there. The problem is obviously compatibility of the old browser with whatever changes must have happened in the forum software. There are no automatic or any upgrades being done to that browser, so something on the forum's side must have changed. I'm just curious what it was.

I have been accessing (reading/composing/uploading photos) the forum for long time from the same computer. Nothing has changes on my end, but when I accessed the forum early in the week it behaves differently. 1. the notifications symbol (bell) in the upper right corner. When I used to click on it, it would then open a small window directly under it showing a list of notifications. Now instead of that, it gets me to a full-window page showing the notifications. 2. When viewing threads with photos, instead of showing the photos in-line like before, I see either blank areas where the photos or videos shoudl be or URLs of them. 3. The "Quote" button on the lower left of a message is missing. 4. When I try to either start a new thread or reply at the end of a thread the window where I would type in the message is just a narrow slit and I can't type in it or stretch it. 5. There are also other small problems like when I hover the cursor over a thread title in the threads list, in the past a window would pop up showing me the first and last thread. That no longer happens. I cleared the browser's cache and cookies - no change. I'm actually composing this message on another computer because I can't post from my regular computer.

I thought Firecrown acquired *ALL* of Kalmbach. Basically acquired the entire company.

That might be ok for metal-bodied vehicles, but reducers (thinners) for 1:1 automotive paints can be hot enough to start dissolving the previous layer of paint or plastic (if bare plastic is being cleaned with them before painting)l Milder solvents such as isopropyl or denatured alcohol (I use 99%), naphtha or mineral spirits will do the job and still be safe on plastic. Do not use rubbing alcohol which is isopropyl alcohol, but usually with some other ingredients added. Using a cheap diswashing detergent (one with no added skin softener) and warm water also works well for prepping plastic for painting.

This is typical when certain type of questions or requests for assistance are posted in an online forum.

Yes, GFCI outlets, if wired properly, will also extend the GFCI protection to the other outlets wired from them. That fact (and how wire them for multiple outlets) is clearly shown in the instructions manual which is included in the outler's package. When you buy a GFCI outlet is usually included small stickers to stick on the additional protected outlets stating that they have GFCI protection. But just the fact that other outlets are on the same breaker as GFCI outlet does not guarantee that they are wired properly. Easy way to test those outlets would be to connect a small load between the HOT and GROUND on any of those outlets. That would trip the "master" GFCI outlet. But doing this test manually is not easy, however you can get GFCI tester which can do just that. https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/electrical-testers/gfci-outlet-tester

I mix mine on a piece of 2" wide masking tape stuck to a small flat plastic palette. Tape does not absorb the resin and when I'm done for the day I simply peel the tape off and replace it with fresh piece for next modeling session.

Not at all Steve. I'm vert happy that Ace took jumped in. I use a multitude of adhesives pick ones which I think are the most suited for a specific task. Both JB Weld and a 5-minute epoxy are in my arsenal of adhesives.

Hey Ferby, I have quickly scanned through 3 pages of this very "interesting" thread. Between the 5-minute epoxy peeing contest posts has as anybody in their responses mention that possibly the parts being glued were not perfectly clean and grease/oil/dirt free? That could be a cause for weak joint. Also if the joined parts were painted before glueing, did the paint stay on the parts or stayed with the hardened epoxy? BTW, if someone wants to use the 5-minute stuff for clear lens applications - don't. It will always turn amber after few years. I tried more than once (guess I was too stupid to learn after the first example of ambering).

Since it was established that the cloudiness is due to microscopic roughness of the surface (the windshield is perfectly transparent when wet or under water), then coating the hazy windshield with any sort of clear coat should fill and smooth out those microscopic scratches, resulting in a windshield that you see when wet. Back in the day a dip in the Future floor finish would have worked, but that stuff seems to be gone. Any not viscous high-gloss clear coat should do the trick. I suspect that Createx Clear Acrylic is one such clear coating (I have not used it myself).

Like Charlie I also prong my deals on the Alps printer and they are printed on a sheet with decal film covering the entire sheet. My technique for trimming the clear film is slightly different. I do not clear-coat my decals before application (I do clear coat my models after I apply decals), but yes, the Alps decals are quite fragile. The ink (which to me is waxy, a bit like something drawn with a Crayon) is fairly easily scratched, so when I know I'll be resting my hand on the sheet, I cover that area where my hand will be resting with an inexpensive (thin) fold-n-seal sandwich bag. If the decal image has a regular shape (like rectangle or triangle) I simply cut the image out of the sheet and trim it using scissors. But for irregular shapes my method involves leaving the image on the sheet and gently tracing the surface close to the image using a hobby knife with a fresh blade, with just enough pressure to cut through the clear film. Since the clear film is very thin, very little pressure is required. I leave the image on the compete sheet for trimming because it is easier to manipulate the while sheet than it would be if I roughly cut the image out first. Once I completely scored around the image, then I use scissors or a hobby knife to roughly cut the image out of the decal sheet. Next I place that piece in water until the decal is ready to be applied. I fish it out of the water and place the wet decal paper on my finger(s). Then using a pair of very sharp pointy tweezers I pinch the clear film outside of the traced image and pull it off the wet paper. Once the unwanted clear film is removed I can now slide the trimmed image applying it onto the model. It is very important to make sure that the tracing cut is fully completed around the image because if it is not, then pulling off the unwanted clear film the incompletely trimmed film will also snag the image. It is also important to make the cut as light as possible so the trimmed image will not snag on the scored paper.

On this forum there is no need to use those <> tags within the message. You just copy/paste the bare URL of the image and the forum will automatically add the image to your post at the cursor location. I never even tried using those <> tags.

Ah, this is the same problem you mentioned in the USPS thread. If you paid using PayPal, file a dispute with them. If the PayPal payment was through credit card, you could also start a dispute with the credit card. Yes, that is a hassle, but you will likely get a refund (since it seems that you have all the proof you will need). And don't deal with that eBay seller again (and leave them negative feedback).

Something similar happened to me in December. I mailed a Priority Mail envelope to an address in West Virginia. The tracking showed it being delivered somewhere in Pennsylvania! Since I was the sender, I went to my local post office and asked to speak with the postmaster. Nice guy. He took me into his office and started doing research on his computer using some internal Post Office apps. He finally found a photo of my item from one of the scanners (looks like a photo is taken and stored for every tracked piece of mail at various checkpoints). He showed me that photo and it became clear what happened. An address label detached from another piece of mail and stuck to my mailing, covering my mailing's destination address with the address in PA. When I asked why didn't the (human) mail carrier notice that before delivering the mailing to a wrong destination, the postmaster told me that the stray address is for a large regional merchandise return center for Macy's. They receive hundreds of mail pieces a day and they are delivered to them in bulk (no human is involved). I asked what were the chances that my misdelivered item would get to the intended destination and he told me that the odds were pretty good. Once the (human) staff of the return center actually sifts through the individual pieces of mail they will notice the stray label, they will remove it and send it back out. He told me that it might take some time for this to happen. If that does not happen, he told me to file a claim with the Post Office for missing package. Well, he was correct. I kept checking the tracking info and after few weeks I noticed that the tracking picked up the new trail and was delivered to the correct address in West Virginia. I just brought the tracking info for that package and unfortunately it not longer shows that it was delivered twice. The tracking algorithm must have cleaned it up. Originally tracking info showed the package delivered in PA on December 17, then back into "Processing" state on December 28, and delivered second time on December 30. The first "delivered in PA" step has been deleted. I wish I took a screen capture when it still showed it delivered twice. If your package was delivered to a wrong address (not due to a mistake made by the shipper), you should ask the shipper to engage their postmaster to find out what happened. This is one of those USPS stories which started out like a horror show, but got cleared up and I even got an explanation of how it happened.

Only if signature release was required. If not, the mail carrier will just drop of the package at the address. Most of the items I receive or send throough USPS do not require signature or ID check.

Never used the stuff but going by all the surface polishing you did it seems to indicate that the cloudiness is within the material itself (not on the surface). If you still think the cloudiness is due to the lack of surface smoothness, take some clear paint (actually "Future" or whatever it is called now would be best) and apply it to small area of the front and back of the windshield. Even clear nail polish would work. The liquid clear will fill any unevenness and make the surface appear clear.

The screen shot seems to indicate a smart phone or tablet being used. I wonder if the problem is related to the mobile version of the forum?

New members have their posts moderated, so you will not see it show up until moderators approve it.

That is even a better deal ($10 less) than the one I got before Christmas. And to me anything with a "brand" name at Harbor Freigth is basically a "non name" generic item. Actually in today's world, even the prestigious or well respected brand names of the past are all made in China anyway, because those brands were all bough out by Chinese investors.

I have a loud compressor with a 4 gal, tank. It has oil. Then few days before Christmas, on Ace's recommendation in another similar thread, I bought the Fortress brand oilless compressor with a 2 gal. tank from Harbor Freight. It was on sale too. It is so much quieter and lighter than my other compressor. It has a lower cfm rating but it is more than adequate for my uses. Now my loud greasy compressor will sit unused.

I spelled it "Canadien" on purpose. As I understand that's how it's spelled in the French-speaking part of Canada.

"Mouses"? That must be Canadien too. In American English I would expect "mice", or if you are a old cartoon fan, it would be "mices".

I guess to be perfectly in-scale one would have to actually measure the specific 1:1 wheels. I guess that 0.5" (or 0.021" in 1:24) one way or another is not going to make that much difference after all.

My experience (over the last 30+ years) is exactly opposite. I have used multiple brands of 5-minute epoxies for "glass" and other tasks (even the ones where the liquid hardener looks clear, not slightly amber like others), and after few years they *ALL* turned darker amber. If someone wants their model to look good after several years, I strongly discourage using 5-minute epoxies to represent gauge "glass" or any other item which is supposed to be clear.

Sean, in today's world, it's nto quite like that. The diameter doesn't matter. In some cars you have one of those couple dozen of computer modules in a car sitting in the door, and all the switches in that door (power windows, locks, power seats, mirrors, etc.) are all connected to that tiny computer module which monitors them. Then that computer passes the status of the switches to the other computers inside the car. So all you need in that door harness you are talking about is 12V, Ground and thin CANbus network cable (sort of like car's Internet). No need for any sausages, and if the computer module in the door malfunctions, hell brakes loose. 🙂