peteski

That makes no sense to me. The file size (the X-Y pixel dimensions) and the compression ratio are what determines the size of the file. DPI value just tells the program displaying them (or printing them) how to display or print them. An image that is 1000x500 pixels in size defined as 300dpi image will display or print as 3.3" x 1.8" picture. If defined as 72dpi image it will display or print as 13.9" X 6.9" picture. The 72dpi picture will look worse because the same number of pixels are contained in the image file, but now printed or shown "magnified" or "zoomed". But the actual file size does not change depending on what the dpi setting is defined as. If the file size of a 1024x768 photo changes depending on how you define its dpi then something makes no sense. I suspect that when you reduce the dpi the editing program resamples the number of pixels to be smaller. That is how my Corel Photo Paint works.

Well to me those look way too thick. More like garden hoses than ignition wires. But we all have different standards we go by. All that counts is that you're happy with your model.

Even standard Kynar insulated 30AWG wire wrapping wire is already oversize for 1:25 spark plug wires. The wire diameter itself is 0.010" but the total diameter with insulation, like Bob mentioned, is around 0.016-0.018". That is 0.016" X 25 = 0.4" diameter in 1:1 . Some modelers find that acceptable - I don't. You should be able to find a lot of 30AWG wire on eBay or amazon. I just looked on eBay and there is a wide range of colors available on 100' spools for about $12US each. The silicon insulated wire you found has likely even thicker diameter insulation (I use similar wire for "real" electrical wiring).

Yes, it is a 1:12 Imai kit. I built it several years ago. I replaced the plastic spokes in the front wheel with thin brass rod spokes.

Amazing modeling Jürgen!

To me that black/white photo (and the logos on the door) looked like it was taken in the '60s in DDR (or GDR in English), but now I know it is a contemporary photo.

Yes, cheaper but nowhere as large as the World Wide Web (everybody who is on the Internet - not just FaceBookers). I know, at this point it is a loosing battle.

Who needs all the drama. I'm also not on any social media except for some old-school forums (like this one). I guess there is something that bugs me: more and more manufacturers only sell on FB - no websites. But that's a general irk as it doesn't just apply to hobby stuff.

Nothing pisses me off. It's a hobby I chose to participate in and enjoy. If it was pissin' me off, I would just quit. Period! It's just a hobby guys!

Nice score Dave! I do hope you keep it original as much as you can. I'm not big into resto-mod stuff. Only 6,000 miles? That is like new (well, except for things aged more than quarter of a century). Hopefully not too much rust. Will you have to repaint it? If yes, hopefuly there are reproduction graphics available. I remember back in the '80s I build a model of this car (I think it was MPC), but I painted mine white instead of silver.

Trevor, I don't think the forum ever had a capability to resize photos during upload (to make the file size smaller). You have to do that before you upload them. Or if you mean that you want to display them smaller size, that feature is still available, but that doesn't make the file size smaller, just the way they are displayed in the browser viewing the thread. Check this post. Is this what you want?

That's pretty amazing stuff Lee! I did notice some small flaws on one of the tires. Hopefully it is easy to clean up. I have three Aoshima 1:16 vintage bile series kits of very similar bikes from the same time period. Of course these are nowhere as well-detailed as your kit. I'm curious about the price of this kit (I'm not on FB).

Meh! You need to try 1:160 scale! Parts count is not too high (for most models) but they are very small. High magnification is required. This one has custom printed decals, photoetched side mirrors and working lights. The antenna over the windshield is a piece of 0.002" wire. There are many custom made parts in this one. I also fully service N scale (1:160) locomotives. This just the loco (I disassembled the tender too). And yes, when I reassembled it there were no parts leftover.

Actually more detailed info is now on their website: https://www.spotlighthobbies.com/chrome-plating-service/ I also could have sworn that someone on this forum recently posted that they were not happy with the way the "plating" came out. but I can't find that thread.

Relax Bill, I think you'll do just fine. And even if something goes wrong, it is only a toy car. Funny that you mentioned that kit. I read all the horror stories and I actually bought one on eBay to see what the buzz is all about. I like a challenge! I expected to have a hard time finding that kit since it has been out of production for some years, yet when I first looked on eBay there were several available and they didn't have outrageous prices. I chose a sealed example. I did open it and looked over the parts and instructions. It is a complex kit but the instructions seem pretty thorough with very helpful hints about handling more difficult assembly steps.

Not that I disagree with you (I also think that modern vehicles are over-bloated with unnecessary electronic junk), but unfortunately the large majority of the car buying population loves all those gadgets.

RIck, Have you driven any modern cars lately? With a 360 degree camera view around the car nobody looks a the rear view mirror. There are no blind spots. Some rear view mirrors are even computer displays showing the rear camera's view. That split rear window is basically decorative element. I think it looks cool. As for blind spots, that car is chock full of them, and again the modern technology takes care of that problem. But the front and rear treatments look just weird. Seems that the designers are just going to the extremes (just to outdo each other). Tone it down a bit! But as with the outrageous concept cars from the '50s, the production version (if it is produced) will like not look as ridiculous.

That was a bit before my modeling years. But what's old is new again.

There is a mega-thread sticky on the forum about this floor finish, and if you look at the most recent pages there should be some alternatives mentioned.

Nope. I believe a kit with highest part count was my Pocher 1936 Mercedes 500 K/AK. It had over 2000 parts (individual spokes and nipples are included in the parts count) but it also had seats with springs and which had to be upholstered, windows which roll up and down, operational convertible top made of cloth, working suspension and steering, and working lights. The parts fit wasn't all that good either. It took a long time to build but to me it was just another kit. Like others have mentioned, Tamiya kits basically fall together (parts fit is as good as any manufacturer can get it) and to me the most frustrating part of building a kit are fit issues. That is why it is best to test-fit all the parts before painting it or using permanent adhesive. Basically building a full mock-up of the parts before actually building it. What about that Ford GT kits makes you worried that it is too much for you? Remember, each subassembly of a complex model is like a kit in itself. If you look at it that way, it might look less scary.

Yes, nothing specific but there are some clues. Copyright 2000. Made/Printed in USA. I think that in the year 2000 many domestic kits manufacturers had their kits molded in China. But this one is fully produced in USA. Which model companies were still manufacturing kits in USA at that time? Another possibility (if no other manufacturer ever sold these kits under their name) that these kits might have been contracted out to some domestic plastic injection molding company for mold design and parts molding. That would (despite what is said about Testors) mean they actually produced their own plastic kits. I also wonder if anybody on this forum knows the noted model kit designer Dave Carlock or the box art model builder Carl Thurow. Maybe they could recall some info about these kits origins. @Tom Geiger and @tim boyd do you guys know the above mentioned modelers or even some history of these kits?

I guess the question would then be: does anybody know under what other name the kits mentioned here were ever sold? I suppose they could have been made by another company exclusively for Testors. Are there any clues in the way the kits are designed, parts laid out or in the way they are molded? Some companies for example use certain way (or specific lettering style) of molding part number tags on the trees. Does the box state where the parts were made?

I used to buy tools from them, but I haven't for a while. They had some decent and not-so-good-quality stuff, but prices were good and things like tweezers could be made better with slight modifications. The prices were always good.

. . . and without any details on the underside (a piece of flat plastic with wheels glued to it is ok). I never heard it being described as a "styling model". In this part of the country we call these models "slammers".

This beings out a question: I have seen multiple mentions in online forums (so it must be true ) That Testors as a company never made molds or prduced any kits on their own. They are all supposed to be repackaging of other company's kits (like Fujimi, Otaki, Italeri or others). If that's true, who made the kits we are discussing here for Testors?