peteski

And to contribute something topical, I did a quick search of the forum using Google, and here are some ideas: There were others too - I just picked these few to show. The thing is that with a forum which has been around for a long time there is a 100% chance that most basic questions have already been answered (several times), and the answers can easily be found by doing a search. It is not that difficult.

Well, participating in this forum for 11 years and my brain retaining some previous contents I read gives me bit of an advantage over a new member. But I still say that the descriptions of each section of the forum (if one actually reads them) should give any new or old member a pretty good idea what would be the optimal section to post their new thread, but don't worry Donny, even many seasoned members start new threads in a wrong sections.

To me the main page ( https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/ ) offers a pretty good guidance as to which forum section (this forum actually calls those sections "forums" while the entire forum is called "site"). Looking at those description of the verious sections your question seems to be the best fit for the General section (and moderators moved it there). Your question was not specific to some model, building techinque, or modeling supplies - it was about displaying/storing models. General section seems perfect fit for it since the guidance shows "For general model car hobby or 1:1 automotive related topics ONLY. Both trucks and cars are appropriate topics." Your question is not model specific, but it is related to model car hobby in general (you use display cases to house your models). If you look through the topics in the General section you will find several older threads about display cases and model storage. An alternative would be the Q&A section (Specific modeling question? Wondering how to? Need help? Looking for answers? Ask here), but the General selection seems a better fit. The Off-Topic section would not be a good fit since your question is related to the model car hobby. If you had a question about plumbing, or wanted to talk about some movie, that would be good fit for the Off-Topic section. This all seems pretty clear to me. My speculation is that the flight sim forum does not need as many sections as we have here since it is about a specific software product and the related accessories.

The problem here is that any solvent which dissolves CA will also attach/dissolve the paint. Mechanical method (like sanding/polishing) seem like the only option.

That section of the forum (as it'is explained in its name and description which I quoted) is strictly for discussions just about the Model Cars Magazine. Your post asking about display/storage of models is not really related to the discussions about the magazine. Since you are still fairly new here I simply tried to show that the subject you posted about did not fit that specific forum section and proposed which section is more appropriate. No harm done Donny.

Welcome back under new personality James. This has happen to several members fairly recently but for some reason you all chose to create a new account (which I believe the admins frown upon) instead of contacting those admins about the original account to figure out what the problem is or reset your password. Often the problem is that someone no longer has access their old email account linked to their profile so password resets will not work. Personally I would go out of may way to get back to my old user name so my post and photos history is still tied to me. I would contact someone like @Xingu @stitchdup @iamsuperdan or even @Dave Ambrose to see if they can assist in resolving the problem. That's just me . . .

LOL. You of all the people who consonantly ridicule AI, are now using it for reference? Please! You don't have to explain computer principles to me - my education was electronics and computer technology, and worked in the field for decades. A single flip-flop (and there are many different types of flip-flops like SR, D, JK) cannot be a computer. A simple SR flip-flop can be constructed using a pair of transistors and few resistors. Look up a definition of a computer to understand why a single flip-flop cannot be considered a computer. If anything, it can be considered as a type of very basic storage cell. If you were just yanking my chain then you succeeded (at list this time).

You mean like the beach footwear mentioned in Jimmy Buffett's song? I know you're funnin', but single flip-flop cannot be a computer.

Even if they were somehow saved, those old decals also have yellowed clear film which will not look very good when applied to the model. I agree that having a new decal made is likely the best option. Try to save as much of the original decal as possible as it will likely be used to produce the artwork for the new decals.

Few members seem to enjoy posting "walk-around" photos of their model taken 360 degrees around it, a photo taken what seems like 10 degrees increments. Is that really necessary? Granted, there are very few members who do this, but I don't find it informative. Limiting number of photos per post seems like an excellent idea . . . but OTOH, some build threads have posts with lots in-progress photos which I find informative. I guess the person posting large photo essay could just split it into multiple posts, so I'm not sure that such a limit would be useful or helpful. What I think would be more useful is limit the resolution (file size) if the photos uploaded to the forum. Some modelers upload huge size photos. It isn't really needed for viewing, even on large size monitors, and totally wasted on tiny smart phone screens on which many view the forum. Having file size limit (or auto-resize on upload) would drastically slow down the storage space gobbling on the forums server. I originally offered this suggestion but I was told that the MCM editors sometimes use those photos in the printed magazine. I thought that was not a very good reason for those high-res photos in the forum posts (since the editor could just request the original size photos from the author of the post). I also recall a fairly recent plea from the admins to limit the uploaded photo sizes due to the forum's storage space quickly filling up, but then nothing else was mentioned about it. The problem is that nowadays most digital cameras (DSLR and other cameras, and all the portable devices) have huge image sensors (12 Megapixels and much higher) and most modelers don't bother to resize (resample) them into lower res images. That's why auto-resizing during upload would be very beneficial. I resize the photos I upload to around 1200 pixels (or less) across. That results in most of my uploaded photo size of 300kB or less. Since I messed around with computers for decades I learned to be thrifty with computer storage. My first computer had 1kB of RAM and 360kB floppy drive for storage!

Donny, you posted this thread in Model Cars Magazine News and Discussions section. This is for news and discussion about the magazine. We will be posting news and announcements, and you are welcome to ask questions. As always, please be respectful. I'll notify the admins/moderators to move it to a more appropriate section. Probably Q & A or General discussion.

The size of the build plate and depth is important but so is the printer's resolution. The finer it is, the less of sanding/filling you will have to do. Some more current printers print items almost as smooth as injection molded plastic. What good is a printer which can print large items but they look like they are made of Legos? Yes I'm exaggerating slightly, but I'm making a point.

I really don't have a clue what sidcharles' post had to do with anything discussed here.

I know what you mean. You can help admins/moderators by notifying them about threads or posts in the wrong places. I do this fairly often. Just click on the "..." on the upper right of a post (if it is a thread, do this in the first post of the thread) then choose "Report Post" and that you just way to tell them about it, then in the message area just tell them what the issue is. The number of moderators is small and amount of daily posts is rather large and they can't possibly look over the entire forum for misplaced posts/threads. They are grateful if you can point them to those posts/threads so they can move them. See this post from Les (one of the mods) indicating they appreciate the assistance.

What I was saying is that the body 000-120 nut is out of proportion to "standard" nuts. As you can see overall size of 000-120 nut is the same as 00-90 nut, but 00-90 nut has the proportion of a standard nut. In my application it was all about what looks "right" to me. I thought you were going to use nuts in conjunction with the threaded rod.

I would like the forums divided into more theme specific sections. I really liked the way things were before the "big reshuffle and combining forums", but I also understand that it is a huge job to go through 10s of thousands of posts to shuffle them around. For example I liked for the Big Rigs to have "general" section where truck specific-items and question would not get lost in the all-encompassing "general" section. I also liked large scale to be on its own. I'ma lsointerested in the "pay to play" no-ads option.

Yes, the 000-120 nuts are way oversize, wrong proportions. How about using 00-90 hardware? Yes, it will be a bit oversize but at least the nuts have the correct proportions. I used that size on the axles in my Peterbuilt Wrecker kit. I used plain brass rod bent into a U-shape and cut threads (using 00-90 die) just in the ends to accept the nuts. It looks pretty good to me.

Jose, that is an interesting subject but carsntrucks4you (Mike) is the only one who is supposed to be posting the quizzes. You are new here so you likely had no idea. The sticky post on this forum has the rules (but this is not spelled out in the first post).

Don, the thing is that back when you were in the hobby decades ago none of these "problems" or complications existed. All the model companies were separate entities and the molds were much newer (with less wear). Sure, there was probably some kit re-boxing going on, but that was minimal. But even then, there was no absolute answer as to which companies kits were better, because even then everycompany had some excellent and some not-so-great offerings.

No all big rig model tires are the same size. You might have to get few sizes (they are not very expensive) and experiment yourself. Here is some additional related info:

Like Greg mentioned PVAE glue gets the bond strength from bonding porous surfaces which will give glue some tooth. Using PVA glue on any smooth non-absorbent surface will result in very weak joint, so it is well suited for plastic kit mock-ups, but it takes tome to dry. UV-cured resins (sometimes passed as glues) will make a good mock-up as they do not bond smooth plastic surfaces well, and cure fast.

There are no recent MPC or AMT, or AMT/Ertl kits because those companies have not existed for quite a few years (or decades). If you see kits branded for those companies, they are older kits. But the rights to those names (and often some older molds) were acquired by new model companies which do production runs using those older molds. Sometimes those companies modify old molds to add some features or correct some problems. Sometimes they reprint old decal artwork, other times they run new version of the decals. Basically there is no simple answer as to which brand kits are better than others. You have to research the specific models you are interested in and compare them with others. Then of course are Japanese model companies too.

Age bias maybe? Going by my recent experience I suspect it is real.

This question was already answered by Len Woodruff earlier in this thread. It is usually beneficial to read older posts of threads like this.

It probably depends on the vehicle being modeled. Some cars have those items made of aluminum which can be polished or slightly duller. But many American cars from the '50s (the chrome and fins period) had chromed windscreen moldings. They looked as shiny as other copious chrome pieces on the car. Some modelers also believe that scaled down chrome should not be as bright as on 1:1 vehicles. I'm not one of them. I believe the model chrome should be as bright and shiny as on 1:1 vehicles.