peteski

@Donny , good to see you looking over older threads for tips. Many newbies just start new threads asking questions without even trying to find answers to those questions asked multiple times. Here are some other CA glue related threads: https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/155447-ca-and-other-things-im-clueless-about/ https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/165362-ca-glue-wells/ https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/182361-bob-smith-industries-glue/ https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/168907-any-glue-i-should-stay-away-from-with-resin/

Funny thing is that the subject line of this thread states "Frames" not "Flames". I looked in because I was curious about FRAMES being modified with a grinder, and all I see is some yahoo with extremely silly ideas. No, I didn't watch the video. The video's still image here clearly showed me all I needed to know.

That's an unusual model. Nicely built. How large is it in 1:10 scale?

Excellent modeling! I love it! The theme song sure is an ear-worm!

Nothing to argue about Bill. I was referring to the original Metalizer airbrush-ready paints supplied in glass bottles. This is before the company was bought out by Testors. It was long time ago but as I remember they were never offered in rattle cans. Only when Testors bought that paint line they started offering them in spray can form (and I believe they also changed the paint's formula). Testors sold their metalizer line of paint in airbrush-ready bottles and some were offered in spray cans.

I still have some of the original (even before Testors acquired them) Metalizer paints in airbrush-ready bottles. I think that most similar product today is Alclad II series of their metallic lacquers. https://alclad2.com/finishes/regular/ and https://alclad2.com/finishes/high-shine/ These produce smooth metallic finish with no discernible flakes, but you really need an airbrush to apply them (just like with the original Metallizer paints).

Ah, you want to go that way? Gauge is the distance between rails. Scale is just like with model cars, the actual scale of the model itself. Your standard gauge H0 scale (1:87.5) model train runs on H0 gauge (16mm) track. I mentioned standard, because you could also be modeling H0 scale narrow-gauge trains which, while still 1:87.5 scale run on N gauge (9mm) track. Or going the other way, you could be modeling narrow-gauge 0 scale (1:48) trains and those could run on H0 gauge (16mm) track. "Scale" always indicate actual scale of the model, while track of a certain gauge can be utilized in more than one modeling scales. Things are never simple and easy. Many modelers refer to model train's scale as "gauge". Also, I use "zero" and not upper case Oh because that is the most proper nomenclature. In the early days of model trains when scale was not very precisely defined, large gauge was called "1" (one). Then a smaller gauge was developed, and that one was called "0" (zero) because it was smaller than "1". Then even smaller models were produced, and those were called H0 (as in Half a Zero, because their scale and gauge was approximately half of 0). That is how H0 was named. But probably since it was easier to pronounce, modelers (especially modelers in USA), started pronouncing it Eich-oh, replacing the zero with an upper case "oh". Not very useful but fun trivia. Not sure how wheel flanges come into play. Those are the the protruding rings on the inside of wheel treads which prevent the train from derailing.

All those are valid and correct when used in the correct context. Turnout is the the entire configuration of diverging track. Points are the individual movable rails of that turnout. Switch is also part of the turnout. It contains the point rails, the throwbar, and any other components involved with the movable points. Remember that a frog and guardrails are also parts of a turnout. But yes, model railroaders often misuse the term "switch" to describe a complete turnout. But we are getting astray of the wheel wells.

Instead of calling the rear ones "wheel wells" and front "inner fender wells" wouldn't simply calling them "rear wheel wells" and "front wheel wells" suffice? Those terms are unambiguous. Also isn't the sheet metal over the rear wheels also called a "fender", so "inner fender wheels" isn't really pointing exclusively to the front fenders? But there are other examples of not very clear or correct names for various automotive items. Like wheel covers are called "hubcaps" even though they cover more than the wheel's hub, and "valve covers" where those are actually rocker-arm (or cam in OHC setups) covers.

If it's on the Internet, it must be true! BTW, misuse of "its" and "it's" is also rampant. Actually I had a problem with it until my GF straightened me out on the usage.

Well, I'm glad that you were able to find the way to search the MCW site. But I'm confused. If you already exchanged emails with MCW and they informed you that 2158E is available, why not just ask them how to order it since it appears not to be showing on their website.

LOL, I should clarify. I'm old school. I don't own a 3D scanner. Just a 20 year old 1200dpi flatbed Epson. Since most of the decals are for the car side, I place the model's shell with the side down and scan it. If I need to, I also scan the top side (roof, hood and trunk areas). Corel Draw is a 2D drawing program. I import the scan to a locked layer so I can draw the decal images over the scan. Here is an example. In this drawing the bottom 2 images are scans of the model's body, and as you can see I'm placing and sizing the decal artwork over them to make it correct size. In the drawing everything is in 1:1 scale (model's scale that is), so if the decals look good over the scanned body, they will look good on the model. The rest of the images were some photos of the actual car from the internet I was using to create the decal images from.

Being a bit impatient? I notified the admins to put this in the proper place.

Finding vector-based logos is easy for most part, and so is changing the color, but the harder part is to get them the correct size for your model. When I design decal art for a model I actually place the model's shell on a scanner and scan it. That gives me the correct size reference I need to virtually place the decal images over the scanned shell in my drawing program to determine their sizes.

I suspect that his one is a result of auto-correct many people have enabled on their smart and not-so-smart devices. Still, that doesn't make it right. I do roll my eyes whenever I see "spruce" used for describing a parts tree. Actually I believe that the sprue is not the parts tree "frame" but the small plastic tabs connecting the part to the parts tree.

This world is *REALLY* messed up! People are nutz!

You're using a PC. Good. Well, next question is: what Browser are you using? In using Windows 7 and Firefox and the MCW site looks exactly like DJ Mar's. I just went to the main page: https://mcwfinishes.com/ No hamburgers anywhere. I though hamburgers were usually seen in smart phones' browsers. Can you take a screen capture and post it here? I'm curious about what you are seeing.

Yes, the usually besides brass, phosphor bronze, and nickel silver, stainless steel is often used for photoetched parts. These parts do like like stainless steel (the other similar color metal would be nickel silver, but it has a much warmer, yellower tone to it, and it is softer). That sure looks like an amazing kit. I've built a much smaller and simpler "naked" photoetched airplane kit. No glue required.

Something can be futuristic without being gaudy. But then again, it is all in the eyes of the beholder.

I would say that in most cases decals are much easier to deal with. No need to drill all those holes making sure they are perfectly spaced. Decal comes with rivets already aligned on the clear film and no holes are needed.

It is not really your fault, but I find that having at least some knowledge about chemicals and coatings I use on my models makes me a better modeler. Actually, I think that hobby paint manufacturers are to blame for getting modelers on the path of calling all water-based paints "Acrylics", even tho acrylic binder is also use in organic-solvent-based paints. Wikipedia has some fairly easily digestible (to a non-chemist modeler like me) info about paint coatings. It breaks down the paint's components and also describes various types of paints. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint Of course there are also hybrid-type paints like Tamiya's X line of paints which use alcohols as solvent but you can still clean it up with water. While I do use the water-based acrylic enamel paints for certain applications, I stay away from them when painting car bodies where high gloss is desired. Water-based acrylic enamels in my experience don't dry (and cure) as hard as the "stinky" paints, so different regiment of sanding/polishing will be in order. I suspect someone will chime in with their experience.

The misspellings and bad grammar in SPAM emails has been around for decades. What's changing is what the scammers are asking for. I have also been wondering why spell them so badly and I'm starting to think that is done in attempts to fool the SPAM filters which look for correctly spelled keywords. I could be way off, but it is something to ponder. I am probably giving too much credit to all the scammers.

There is no cure or detox for the model collecting fever. It might be more expensive than drugs but it doesn't ruin your health, and models (unbuilt and built) can be sold 2nd hand.

Modeler's paint nomenclature is another source of confusion and often inaccurate or ambiguous. For example what do you mean by "acrylic" paint? Do you mean organic-solvent (read: stinky) acrylic enamel or lacquer, or what modelers colloquially call the low-odor water-based acrylic enamels?

Archer shut down their business few years ago, but it appears that someone else restarted the company. Rivet and other details decals are now on https://www.archertransfers.com/pages/surface-details