peteski

Interesting. I use Kapton tape (the transparent amber colored tape used in electronic industry) in my other hobby (model railroading), and while it is flexible and has a good adhesive it's not stretchy, so I'm not sure how well it will conform to the curvature of the tire's sidewall. The Washi-type tape (like Tamiya or I guess Crepe) is capable of stretching/compressing to conform to curved surfaces. I wonder if the Kapton tape you are mentioning is somehow different than the stuff I use.

Thanks for the info Frank. I've seen Washi tape (in craft stores) which is also similar to Tamiya tape, but Crepe masking tape is a new one on me.

Looks like you still have to center the mask by-eye. That is usually the trickiest part of this process. Is that Tamiya tape? I didn't realize it was available that wide.

Bryan, If you think about it, the wrinkly paint texture of 1:1 paint in 1:24 scale will be so fine that it would not really be discernible. Maybe it would be worth trying to emulate if the model was 1:8 scale, but not in 1:24. That's my opinion. Maybe some satin finish paint would work well enough, or many the Faux Fabric paints that Scale Motorsports offered would look convincing. Those have slight texture to their finish.

That is true that the direction of lighting makes a difference in how a metallic (or mica) paint will look. But as I mentioned, there are metallic powders with different size "grit" available for companies which custom mix paints (for model paints and for 1:1 cars, so the formulas can be tweaked to produce metallic paints with very fine metallic particles. If you ever looked at several cars (in a parking lot) on a sunny day you woudl likely even see the that the metallic paints on those cars have different size metallic particles. Your example does demonstrate pretty well how by using different lighting angle the metallic paint will look different but even in the photo where the metallic particles are more visible, they do not look out of scale. MCW is one of the companies that uses smaller metallic particles for mode paints. But for example most (if not all) Testors One Coat metallic paints have IMO metallic particles which are too large (out of scale) for model cars.

I do like the color, but also agree with others that the "glitter size" flakes are bit much for me. Actually quite a few model paints (especially a certain line of sprays for car models from Testors) have oversized flakes. This is often because the model paint formula is based on the 1:1 paint. But if you take those metallic flakes which look nice on a 1:1 car and apply them to a model which is 25 times smaller, you get the glitter paint effect. While this is not too objectionable when viewing the model in-person, that large flake size really pops out in the close-up photos. I'm my model club's contest photographer and I run into the oversized flakes on photos quit a bit. There are however model paint manufacturers who use much finer metallic particles so the 1:25 scale models painted with their metallic paints look like accurately scaled miniatures. But it's all a personal preference, so all it counts is that you like the look.

Adding small amount of dishwasher detergent or alcohol to decrease water's surface tension is commonly used in the model railroading hobby when gluing track ballast so it doesn't bead up and soaks into the dry ballast. Model railroaders call it "wet water".

Primer (especially etching primer) is a special coating designed to improve paint coat's adhesion and also is very opaque to provide a neutral evenly colored surface for the paint. Sandable primers have more body to them to allow some light sanding for smoothing out any small uneven spots. Actually primers are usually nowhere as "flat" as many flat paints. They often produce an eggshell (sort of satin) type of surface. If you really want to know more details see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Primer_(paint) Flat paint is any glossy paint with flattenign agent added to it to make it not glossy.

This is a different and known issue too. See the following post in that thread and also replies from Dave Ambrose. It explains the seemingly strange problem.

Around my area (in Northeast USA) the ones for grass are called weed-wackers. As for gasoline (um, petrol) powered trimmers, those are for really bushy out of control beards.

I'm glad to know I'm not alone in my preference of the original style nose. But since the pseudo-fastback body style was brought up, to me that also ruined the Fiero's look even more. Yes, from the plan view it looks pretty slick, but once you realize that those windows are fake and there is no rear window, that really spoils it for me. Yet, I like the '70s Corvettes with the "flying buttresses". Those were well done. Recent issue of Collectible Automobile had a good size article about the Fiero. As with most articles in that magazine it was an interesting read.

I'm probably in the minority but I much prefer the Fiero's original nose. It fit the car better than the rounded nose.

I have not uses embossing powder but I suspect that the problem is that the glue you are using is too thick (viscous) and too dry for the embossing powder to adhere. At least failed attempts are easy to clean up (unlike stripping paint). Maybe try diluting the glue with some water to make it thinner, then sprinkle the powder over that. But do not make it too runny.

Hmm, I guess there are pin vises and there are pin vises. Most of the ones I own have exchangeable chucks (total of 4 size ranges), which gives the vise a capacity of 0 to 1/8" (so the PC Board drills can be chucked in mine. For many precision drilling small holes in plastic I often hold the 1/8" shaft of a PC board drill directly in my fingers. That gives me much better control of drilling. BTW, I realize that both vice and vise are correct words for describing that tool, but to me "vice" seems more awkward, as my brain associates it with its other meanings, while I believe "vise" only has one meaning. I also realize that in the original English (British) language, "vice" is generally used to describe that tool. Oh well, I speak American English. You have that index, but not this one?

Probably the same way the package routing between facilities is determined: often seems random and inefficient to an average human.

I guess I missed the fad. Might have been more popular in other parts of the country. No big loss. Only somewhat related things I've seen around here (Northeast USA) was some nicely restored milk trucks painted for some dairy companies, and then there was official Wienermobile.

Fad? I never knew that (or seen many such privately owned cars). When was that? I guess the big wheel statement is a general statement because this particular car seems to have more or less normal size wheels.

To me the bumper sure looks like a typical kit's "chrome" (not paint). Grill and headlight bezels are noticably duller looking,. Not that it's a bad thing. Many modelers are of the belief that scale model chrome should be duller looking than chromed pieces on 1:1 vehicles. A belief that I do not subscribe to. For me chrome is chrome. It doesn't scale - it is supposed to be mirror-like smooth and reflective, regardless if it's 1:1 or 1:43 scale.

What you have here are typical TC (Tungsten Carbide) PC-board drill bits with 1/8" shanks. These have also been mentioned in the other threads.

Sounds good.

I'm confused. You are creating memes? You mean on meme generators websites? Then copy/paste what? The image file (JPG, GIF, etc) containing the meme, or a URL link to the meme hosted elsewhere on the internet? Can you give some specific example?

It does look good - I like it!

Is this an official Coca-Cola Company vehicle, or some individual just painted their ElCamino that way?

While I don't have the list of ingredients for the original Westly's formula I believe it contained Lye and likely bleach. Both of those will strip "chrome" (actually thin layer of aluminum) from plastic model parts. Modelers still use those two chemicals (in various forms) for stripping "chrome". Obviously the "new and improved" (and likely more environmentally friendly) Whestly's cleaner likely contains alternative chemicals which are not caustic enough for stripping "chrome". This "new and improved" thing happens to other items we use in modeling and those new formulas do not work as well s the older ones. Even the no-fumes "new formula" Easy-Off in spray cans doesn't work for stripping paint like the original formula did.

Yes, all those are good options which have been mentioned in the original 2 threads.