peteski

You beat me to the announcement John. Should be a good show (they're all good). For photos of previous shows check out http://classicplastic.org/photos.html

Not sure if anybody already mentioned it, but I think that Eddie Van Halen's Eruption is pretty good.

All this talk reminded me of my food irk: From time to time I enjoyed eating Hillshire Farm's Li'l Smokies or Li'l Polskas links. Those were very tasty little sausage links with a coarsely ground meat inside. I haven't had them for few years, and when I recently picked up a package and warmed them up I was in for a huge disappointment. They have totally changed their recipe. Instead of that moist coarsely ground filling, they are basically smoky flavored hot dogs. No more coarse ground, slightly greasy meat - they are filled with pink slime which has no texture at all. Another of my little pleasures is gone. Darn!

I still chuckle that a thread with a very vague click-bait type of subject line, simply warning about a certain type of spray can primer has developed into a mega thread with over 150 replies so far (with many OT responses) and still going strong. Bravo! Fun stuff!

Another PM? I find that humerus! Maybe Monty will spill the beans to all of us. I suspect I might know the reason for secrecy.

Hmm, might be time to get one of those since I still have the older release from Revell without a windshield. That will make the build easier.

I use spray cans and airbrush too. Nobody seems to understand what I'm trying to convey. There are modelers who are simply airbrush-averse. They don't own and don't want to own an airbrush because they say that airbrushes are too difficult and time consuming to clean. That is their whole excuse for not trying none.

Any super glue (CA), especially thin viscosity CA should bond vinyl very well. Using accelerator helps too. But you have to make sure the glued surface are very clean (use 99% Isopropanol or Naphtha). There is also the adhesive used by plumbers to weld PVC (vinyl) pipes, but I would not recommend it (too stinky and messy).

When someone tells me that they use spray cans because they don't want to deal with the hassle cleaning out the airbrush, to me that is lazy. Period. If you call this "an attitude", so be it. I guess you can argue about this 'til the cows come home. but I'm not changing my mind.

I didn't specifically mean you, but I have seen many modelers use the excuse that airbrushes are too much hassle to use when a spray can is easy to deal with. Personally I think it is a poor excuse, but that is what they use. SUre you have to clean the airbrush (which usually involves shooting some lacquer thinner through it - no real hassle), but spray cans aren't perfect either. They can also clog, sometimes with no way to unclog them, and you have very little control of the paint and air pressure, which to me is important when spraying small objects (like model parts). Airbrush is like a scaled down spray gun, so it is perfect for painting miniatures. I used to use Testors and Pactra hobby spray cans in my earlier modeling years, but as my techniques advanced, I switched to airbrush. But when a task requires (for example spraying a body shell of a 1:8 scale model car), I will use a standard spray can of paint. For example I used a large spray can of black epoxy appliance enamel to paint a 1:8 Pocher Mercedes 340K. Using the right tool for a specific task usually gives optimal results.

To me 140 deg. F seems a bit too hot for comfort. I don't run mine for more than around 110-115 deg. Also, some formulations of polystyrene or ABS plastic (and urethane resins) can be more sensitive to temperature than others.

I wonder if Atlantis added an actual molded windshield, or just give you a small piece of clear styrene sheet?

Now that makes sense (to someone who has been dealing with various LED-based designs, not just for models for over 40 years).

Well, some LEDs (of certain colors have lower forward voltage than others. Without getting too technical, for example a red or yellow LED has a lower forward voltage and will "steal" all the current for for example a white or blue LEDs which have higher forward voltage. in your circuit a resistor shape appears to be visible under the heat shrink right next to the LED. Do you cut those resistors off?

And lazy, not wanting to clean the airbrush after each color, and after the painting session. I see that excuse mentioned often. But I think it also boils down to the fact that military modelers are more fastidious than average automotive modelers. The seem to strive for better quality and fidelity in the models they build. And like Steve said, many go for a quick build rather than a super-detailed model which takes months to build.

With those, don't forget to use resistors in series with the LEDs. Even Design LEDs have the resistor installed next to each LED (in heat shrink tubing).

As I understand the old address came directly from a Google search. Google has stale info.

That's true, the pictures have to fit the width of the forum window. But you can also resize them within the message. After you add the photo to the message just double click on the photo in the message and that will bring up "Image" popup. There, you can specify the width you want (in pixels) making sure that "keep original aspect ratio" box is checked, then click on "Update" on the bottom of the popup. You can edit the same photo multiple times this way to get the photos in the size you want. And if you uncheck the "aspect ratio" box and start manually messing around with both photo dimensions, you can end up with a distorted image. This process doesn't resize the actual uploaded picture, it just modifies how the picture is displayed in the message. Here's an example. The top pictures (all from the same original link) have been resized to 100, 150, and 200 pixels across, and the bottom picture is the original size as it was uploaded to the forum. With the 3 photos in-line I inserted couple of spaces between them. Here is the distorted photo

It is all about maximizing profits, and live human staffed customer service costs more money than some computer sitting in a closet (or in the cloud) spewing out automated menu selection. "Press 9 to go to hell!" I also find it amusing (and annoying at the same time) when the computer voice tells you "please listen to the menu as the options have changed". That's Bull! I have called that same company for few years and the menus and the silly message are the same. They are basically using psychology to make the listener stay and listen to all the options to minimize misrouting.

Photos are just like very large single letters in the text area, so they can be arranged like letters. When you add multiple photos in the text area, if they are stacked vertically that means there is a Return or Enter character on the right side of each photo. If you move the flashing text cursor around you should be able to spot right at the lower right edge of the photo. If you then hit the Delete button, the photo below will move up right against the other photo. That is when using a PC. If you post from a phone, use whatever method you have to move the cursor to the correct location and then delete the Return character.

Yes, https://mcwfinishes.com/ works, and on the bottom of the main page it shows: MCW Finishes 2414 South Horner Boulevard Sanford, North Carolina 27330, United States (919)292-1695 So Google has stale info.

The great almighty Google is not always correct. I still fail to see what this was all about. So google states (incorrectly) that MCW is permanently closed. So one goes on this forum to ask real humans. They promptly point to an active MCW website and also confirm that they have recently seen or even purchased MCW products. Seems to me that there was some lack of clarity in the early posts causing all this drama. Oh well, all is good again.

I know. I've been a customer of HLJ for probably couple of decades, but few years back after one of their major website redesigns, I didn't like the functionality, so I started buying from Hobby Search. I guess I have to revisit HLJ, but we still have to support Hobby Search, so they keep on posting scans of the kit's instructions. That is super handy! Anybody remember Rainbow Ten? I used to order kits from them back when you had to email them your order. I also had the pleasure of visiting the actual hobby store in-person. What an amazing place it was!

To me the point is that there is no single perfect painting technique. You have to experiment and settle on what works for you. The important thing is that you are happy with the model you built.

Since we have now moved to all sorts of subjects and techniques, I don't prime unless I have to, and never sand any paint jobs unless I have to. I shoot all sorts of paints (decanted or not) through Badger 200 airbrush I have owned for over 30 years. Here is a 1:43 scale Cobra. The body was yellow plastic, so I shot it with a decanted Tamiya fine white primer. Then the color was shot using nail polish thinned with lacquer thinner. Actually that was the 2nd reason for that primer coat - nail polish and lacquer thinner are "hot" and can attach (craze) bare plastic. The skunk stripes were then masked with Tamiya tape, and shot with AccuPaint white. It goes on very thin. AccuPaint is long discontinued, but TruColor paint is basically the same stuff. Then for clear coat I used decanted Testors Wet Look Clear. No sanding or polishing. It looks pretty glossy to me - I'm quite happy with the finish. I always wonder why so many modelers do all that in-between-coats sanding, and final sanding and polishing. What's my secret? I don't know. I don't do mist coats - I airbrush my paint fairly heavily, and I usually don't do more than couple of coats (too much paint and clear makes a model look like it was dipped in molasses). Back when I started airbrushing, there were no online forums or YouTube. I just came up with my technique on my own. Works for me.