peteski

That is not something you'll likely find in a supermarket of a pharmacy. They usuaklly carry 91% IPA. Look for it in the paint thinners isle of your hardware store. Ive seen it called 99 IPA or Isopropanol 99. Will probably be about $30/Gal. The price got jacked up during the COVID pandemic and has not dropped.

Thanks. I am well aware that not all diodes have glass envelopes - that is why I specifically selected 1N914. 1N4148 is a similar diode. I've been involved in electronics for over 45 years (both professionally as an electronics technician, and as a hobby). And I also agree that all sorts of items unrelated to plastic model car kits are used for detailing. Just recently we had a thread about this (and I also use non-modeling items for detailing my models). Many aftermarket parts companies repackage various non-model-related items for use in modeling.

I believe they were diodes, not resistors. Diodes have glass envelope while resistors are not see-through. The small diodes actually do make good fuel filters. But yes, the point is that electronic components can be used in our hobby. Just like some use wire wrapping wire for scale ignition wires. Here is a 1N914 diode, They can be had for few cents a piece from electronic parts distributors like Digikey or Mouser electronics.

Aren't computers fun?

The K&S sheets were very handy but it looks like they are discontinued. https://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s1307.htm https://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s1308.htm Looking at the K&S website it appears they no longer offer any plastic for sale - just metal.

While more sad than irked, I'm bummed out that Little Motor Kar Company has shut down. The last company that was re-plating model car parts. But I'm also irked at myself for having bunch of parts I wanted to send out to them and procrastinating! I still prefer vacuum metalized parts than painting them with one of the several available "chrome" paints.

Yes, as I mentioned, every club is different, that is why to avoid problems it is best to ask someone in the club. Looks like you are good to go, no matter what method you choose.

That is not a good news (but yes, not unexpected). I was planning on sending out a batch of parts to Dale. Looks like I waited too long. I wonder if RMCoM is heading that way too? None of us are getting any younger, and nobody younger wants to take over the business. I think big part of the problem is that these are not big profit operations. Nobody gets rich plating model parts or making resin castings. It is more like labor of love.

Really? Dale shut down his plating business?!

That is exactly it. Most computer printers (ink jet and laser) print using 3 translucent inks (cyan, magenta, yellow) and opaque black to produce a wide range of colors, but since they are translucent, they also require that the print media be white (like paper). If you print your decal on clear decal film and apply the translucent image to a non-white surface, the color of the surface the decal is applied on will affect the color of the decal. You need either opaque inks (not feasible in home printers) or white film decal paper. Alps MicroDry printers are home printers which are capable of printing white ink and overlaying color inks over that, producing decals which can be applied to any color surface without affecting the final color. But those are long discontinued and quite pricey of you can still find one working. They also use ink ribbon cartirdges which are getting harder to find and also expensive.

I think most modelers do not use acrylic. Stuff they colloquially call "acetate" is likely PET or PETG plastic. You should be able to find sheets out there that are 0.010" thin. Polystyrene (like the range of sheets from Evergreen) also come in clear, down to 0.005" thick. But that material scratches rather easily, so it is not an ideal windshield material.

Actually both Rustoleum and Testors brands are under the umbrella of RPM. I don't think they are set on ruining the hobby (that would be detrimental to their business an making profits), and simply some bad decisions have been made when producing these items. Fortunately the hobby is healthier now than ever - there are multiple lines of hobby paints and adhesives out there, so we no longer have to depend on Testors or Pactra, like we did in the old days.

Looks like you chose the most direct and most definitive route. When in doubt - ask the organizers. Over the years I have attended multiple shows organized by different clubs and I observed that the contest rules for various classes vary a bit from club to club. That is why it is the best to get direct answers and not depend on anecdotal information in an online forum (which included some interesting and creative ideas for propping up that hood). As for poor lighting John has mentioned, yes that can be a case too (where hood off the model would be the best option), but I have also seen judges using mini-flashlights to closely examine model interiors or engine compartments. Like I mentioned, every contest is slightly different.

Geez Stephen, toothpick was just an example. There are many things you can use to prop the hood. Long sewing needle or even wire from straightened paper clip. You should be able to figure it out. We are beating that dead horse again. Of course, you can have the last word if you so desire.

While it has no bearing on the problem, are those brand new cans, or partially used cans? If the cans were full then the amount of leaked out binder (in the photo) is just small portion of what's in the can. If you squeeze the can you can tell whether it is still pressurized or not. Of course you could also try spraying.

Yes, this is a fairly common problem with some batches of Testors spray cans. It has been discussed on this form more than once. They never heard of it? Sure . . . Yeah, rigth.

Sorry, when IMO things get way "out there", I say what I thing. The idea of stretching sprue to make sure the plastic came from the kit (to make sure it adheres to some not yet known box-stock rules) to me is really out-of-the-box thinking. As I mentioned, each contest has specific rules for box-stock category and I'm not going to repeat what I already wrote. Seriously, before pondering the imponderable just the solution I posted in my last post makes most sense. Don't you think Steven? Come on, tell the truth. It's a simple answer, and it doesn't make an idiot out of anybody. Seems we have another 5-minnute epoxy thing going here.

To me you guys are all overthinking this and getting needlessly "creative". There is only one answer to the question: If entering the box-stock class in any judged contest, carefully read the contest rules for that class. If it is unclear, go and ask some contest official at the day of the show. Nobody's going to bite your head off. For goodness sake, just take a toothpick as a hood prop with you and if they say "no" to using it, then display the hood sitting next to the car. Geez! Why make this into a federal case?

Also remember that there is no fixed set of rules (unless many it is an IPMS contest), Every club makes their own rules.

My thought's exactly. It has a DeTomaso Mangusta flavor. It is a good looking vehicle.

I pretty much stated the same sentiment earlier in this very long thread. We should be praising people who truly deserve it (and also are usually underpaid). Police, Fire Fighters, Paramedics and other similar professionals who put their own lives in danger to help out others in peril.

Dan, that is well known and proven fact. Humans are much likely to complain rather than to praise.

I really don't think that a prop to hold the hood open will disqualify box-stock model. Something like a piece of wire or even a toothpick. It is not really a part of the model. I would compare that to a stand which either elevates or tilts the model to better show off its undercarriage. But you better ask the club which puts on the show to be 100% sure,

Yes, headlights are one of those items which plays a major role in the overall realism of a model. But even if a model has properly molded and "chromed" reflectors, and a nice thin molded lens, if the lens is not installed properly (affixed with the striations in the lens at an odd angle) that also ruins the realism. That small details is sometimes missed by modelers.

I understand what you are saying about the differences but . . . plastics (thermoplastics) and Polyurethane resins are both types of polymers . Assembling models made from either polystyrene or urethane is similar, other than the type of adhesives used on each (which I did mention in my previous post). Actually while solvent-type cements cannot be used on urethane resin, any cement that works with urethane can be used on polystyrene. My earlier post was basically to try getting David to jump in and try something new.