peteski

To me you guys are all overthinking this and getting needlessly "creative". There is only one answer to the question: If entering the box-stock class in any judged contest, carefully read the contest rules for that class. If it is unclear, go and ask some contest official at the day of the show. Nobody's going to bite your head off. For goodness sake, just take a toothpick as a hood prop with you and if they say "no" to using it, then display the hood sitting next to the car. Geez! Why make this into a federal case?

Also remember that there is no fixed set of rules (unless many it is an IPMS contest), Every club makes their own rules.

My thought's exactly. It has a DeTomaso Mangusta flavor. It is a good looking vehicle.

I pretty much stated the same sentiment earlier in this very long thread. We should be praising people who truly deserve it (and also are usually underpaid). Police, Fire Fighters, Paramedics and other similar professionals who put their own lives in danger to help out others in peril.

Dan, that is well known and proven fact. Humans are much likely to complain rather than to praise.

I really don't think that a prop to hold the hood open will disqualify box-stock model. Something like a piece of wire or even a toothpick. It is not really a part of the model. I would compare that to a stand which either elevates or tilts the model to better show off its undercarriage. But you better ask the club which puts on the show to be 100% sure,

Yes, headlights are one of those items which plays a major role in the overall realism of a model. But even if a model has properly molded and "chromed" reflectors, and a nice thin molded lens, if the lens is not installed properly (affixed with the striations in the lens at an odd angle) that also ruins the realism. That small details is sometimes missed by modelers.

I understand what you are saying about the differences but . . . plastics (thermoplastics) and Polyurethane resins are both types of polymers . Assembling models made from either polystyrene or urethane is similar, other than the type of adhesives used on each (which I did mention in my previous post). Actually while solvent-type cements cannot be used on urethane resin, any cement that works with urethane can be used on polystyrene. My earlier post was basically to try getting David to jump in and try something new.

I had a similar issue. And when it dried, the paint itself remained soft. When I contacted Scale Finishes about it, they sent me a bottle of hardener to mix with the paint before airbrushing.

Well, I mentioned to make a RTV rubber casting and cast the parts in urethane resin (because from what I can see, no adhesive will likely be reliable enough, and paint will likely not stick well to it either). The OP actually replied that he might give that a try. Seems like a productive advice to me. Sometimes unconventional solutions are good too. At this point I am tired of this. You are right Steve: 5-minute epoxy is very good and sound advice.

Steve, If you bothered to read my several earlier posts you will see that I offered plenty of advice. You might not like or agree with it, but it is advice. Like I said, I use 5-minute epoxy in my modeling and household repairs, so I do have a clue about what I'm talking about. My personal experience with those slippery plastics we are dealing with in this thread, and 5-minute epoxy is that it doesn't create a usable bond. Period, End of advice. That is the "because". If you wish, I can also post some photos of the 5-minute epoxies I have in my adhesive's arsenal. I don't have the JB Weld brand, so as I mentioned, if it works for bonding those hard to bond plastics, it must be a super-adhesive. But as you said, we are all just blowing smoke since this is all just experiences, suggestions, and speculations. But it is fun!

Steve, I guess this thread has morphed from its original goal of looking for glue for difficult to glue plastics (and for that purpose 5-minute epoxy is not suitable). Good to know that you do use a variety of different adhesives in your modeling.

Most glue types?! Are you saying that 5-minute epoxy used for example to join 2 unpainted styrene parts is superior to solvent cement which will permanently fuse (melt) those parts, or even CA glue which also produces very strong joint? I do use 5-minute epoxy for various tasks, but only when I think it is the best adhesive for a particular type of a joint I find its adhesion to clean bare plastic far inferior than welding-types of cement or even CA glue. 5-Minute epoxy can be peeled off fairly easily from styrene ,or any other smooth surface (like metal). Maybe you found some miracle adhesion 5-minute epoxy?

Same here. I thought the original question is a bit too vague. For airbrushing car bodies? Or other parts of the model (from chassis to small parts like a carburetor or a starter)? No favorites here - I just airbrush whatever paint I find best in for a specific job. And I have probably a dozen of different paint types (from various manufacturers). I do minimal brush painting, so most of them get applied through my airbrush.

That is very dependent on how badly you need that single part, and how much hobby budget you have.

If the slippery plastic parts you found could be very useful, you could make RTV rubber molds from them and then make urethane reins copies (which then could be handled like other resin cast parts), Urethene resin is glueable and paintable.

Plastic (Polystyrene, ABS) *IS* resin. So if you have been building model kits from companies like Revell or AMT, you have do have a clue how to build resin. What I'm trying to say is that if either of those bodies is something you're interested in building, I would say keep them and give them a try. Just don't try using any of the standard solvent-based plastic cements. That is the biggest difference between the polystyrene resin and urethane resin.

I didn't know that Polyolefin Adhesion Promoters existed. Thanks for your educational post Bill. Never too old to learn new things.

You hit the nail on the head. Polypropylene and Polyethylene plastics are not attacked by any of the strong solvents (like acetone or similar) used in paints. So paint will not fuse into them. But then we don't even know for certain what type of plastic we are dealing with. I'm just speculating. It could possibly be nylon or POM ( Polyoxymethylene ) which is pretty much impossible to glue or paint.

Since you quoted my reply, that looks like a photo of HEI ignition distributor, with electronic module inside instead of mechanical points. Since it still has a vacuum advance unit, it is probably an early HEI, but it still has a 4-pin electronic module to generate spark pulses. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_energy_ignition https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/ignition-electronics-efi/clearing-the-confusion-about-the-hei-distributor-shortcomings/

Vinyl (PVC) and Polypropylene or Polyethylene are different types of plastic. But feel free to experiment.

HEI type of ignition by default indicates an electronic sensor for generating spark signal. I guess we could argue what consistences "electronics". To me points and condenser are "non-electronic" circuit.

With a stock engine? Like Bill mentioned GM was using HEI ignition (the large distributor cap with integrated coil), which also had some electronics replacing mechanical points.

The other thing I mentioned in my original post was that pain adhesion. even if you can get the part to stick. what good is it of the paint will not adhere well? As far as I understand adhesion promoters, those are designed for using automotive paints on polyurethane (urethane) parts, not polypropylene or polyethylene. But I would be happily proven wrong.

Interesting . . .