peteski

Blue dots were owner-added accessory (not a factory installed option). The were small blue glass "gems" in a thin chrome bezel. You drilled out a hole in the taillight lens, and installed the blue dots. They are barely visible on the 1:1 car unless the taillights are illuminated. In 1:25 scale they will probably be around 0.030" in diameter. That is small. You could try to simulate that feature by drilling the kit's lens with small drill bit and installing a piece of clear styrene. Then dab a small dot of transparent blue paint on the clear styrene. Or even simpler: paint a small dot of chrome paint (like from Molotow pen) over the taillight lens, then when that dries, dab a dot of transparent blue paint over the chrome dot.

The "WARNING" Extremely flammable . . ." on the bottle is also a good clue that the stuff will likely attack polystyrene.

Yes, I'm a long time Alps owner and user. If you are looking for assistance with these ancient (but very handy) printers, I recommend you joint https://alps.groups.io/g/ALPS Rob and I are members there.

That is why I posted a warning in the 2nd post of this thread. Always test first. If a debonder shows a list of ingredients, that can also be helpful in figuring out whether it will attach polystyrene or not. The BSI debonder likely uses different solvents from the Z-7 stuff. I'm always cautions because CA glue is basically acrylic resin (Acrylic is Plexiglas). In my experience, anything that dissolves Plexiglas could likely also melt polystyrene. Maybe there are exceptions.

I believe you used incorrect term. "Soluble" means they will totally dissolve in liquid. Like when you put sugar crystals in your tea and stir it. The crystals totally disappear because they dissolve. Pearls powders do not dissolve. They stay suspended in the liquid. That is why the liquid with pearl powder in it will remain sparkly. Same with metallic paints - the particles do not dissolve in the liquid paint.

Also, while a single spoke is very thin and fragile, all the spokes combined result in relatively strong wheel. Just like the 1:1 scale wire wheels. They use thin steel spokes to support the entire car and withstand rough roads, and the forces of cornering. As for sagging resin, yes some resins have been known to lose integrity in time, but other resins are much more stable. Once can hope that the wheels (and other 3D parts we buy) are printed using the more stable resin

There is such a thing, but UV light cures it similarly to a standard liquid accelerator. Try it. J-B Weld Super Weld Light Activated Instant Glue.

Any lye-based liquid should not only strip the "chrome" (actually aluminum), but also the clear coat under the metalization.

LOL! Well, AA is not really naughty. It is just a Alcoholic's Anonymous group helping people to quit the addiction. We on this side of the pond also have American Automobile Association, and the acronym is AAA. ? These simple black decals should be easy to make yourself using some basic graphic editing program and print them on decal paper.

Take a high resolution scan (not just a photo), to have a backup if you need to have them custom printed). At least 600 dpi, and save the scan using a non-lossy format (like PNG). To try using the old decals, get some Microscale liquid decal film and brush paint several layers over the decal sheet. That will put a fresh clear film over the cracked old decal film. Of course you will have to trim each decal close to the image before placing them in water.

Next size down from 00-90 is 000-120, then even smaller is 0000-160. In the past I was able to get mine (in brass) from some sources which evaporated. Yes, the 0000-160 are very pricey, but if you can find 000-120, they should be less expensive. You might also look at metric size fasteners. Those might be available from China for less money (but I cant' give you any specific sizes - not very familiar with them).

Thanks guys. This is not a project I'm ready to tackle, but it is good to have options. Silver plating sounds interesting but unlike aluminum, in my experience silver tarnishes, turning dull or even black. I suppose it could be clear coated, but that just adds another layer to the finish. As for problems vacuum aluminizing 3D printed parts, there are different printing technologies and materials out there. If I do decide to send them to Dale, I'll discuss it with him first.

Good question. I'm talking about the standard vacuum aluminizing process used for decades on model kit's "chrome"parts (not real chromium electroplating). The process where a clear coat is applied to the part, then the shiny aluminum layer is deposited over the clear. The thickness and overall quality of the process can vary. I have worked with some factory "chromed" parts where no appreciable thickness has been added (Japanese made kits are usually the best). I have also seen where the clear coat was applied rather heavily. But the aftermarket vacuum aluminizing ("plating") companies (at this point I think we only have one left in USA) usually do a good job with the process, not adding much thickness to the part's surface. Not more than a layer of black gloss enamel followed by Alclad II chrome. I'm still not sure how I'll handle finishing those wheels.

This is the bane of the modelers. "Acryilc" is a nebulous term. Acrylic resin is the paint's binder (look it up if unfamiliar https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint ). There are acrylic lacquers *AND* enamels, using hot and milder solvents (including water). Modelers really need to gain better understanding of paint chemistry for successful results (especially if using multiple coats of different types or brands of paints). Yes, yes, I know that in modeler's colloquial terms "acrylic" is supposed to mean "water based acrylic-binder enamel". Still, that is not the best way to to approach the subject of compatibility.

That is the main problem with the hobbyists. Many just put every paint in the enamel or acrylic buckets, where when in fact are many formulations of each type of paint out there (especially if one starts using paints not made for the hobby market). Same goes goes for even different brands of paints. When you do that, you are always doing an experiment (on your precious model, if you didn't to a spoon test first). When mixing paints and brands you always run a risk of incompatibility.

I doubt you can save it. Even ignoring the facts that cured enamel is difficult to remove, and it also likely soaked into the paper, the most problematic is that whatever solvent is used to remove the paint, will almost certainly also start dissolving the ink that was used to print the box. But you have nothing to lose by trying..

Should not dull the chrome paint (you use water, and decal has water-soluble adhesive), but any clear film outside the image will be noticeable. But if you also use decal setting solutions, those might affect the chrome paint's surface.

I would not give up yet. He has been a member here since 2011, and has 2,100 post count. Last visited on July 5th. I don't think he would shaft another member here for some model kit parts, then run. Something probably happened to delay him. It would be nice if he contacted you with an explanation, but maybe he can't?

That depends on how precise the fit of the punch and die is. If they have very close fit then they can punch even very thin materials, but it the fit is too sloppy, then the thin punched material will tear or even stretch.

From what I have seen mentioned here, Testors never owned any kit molds. Models were always molded by other companies and packaged by Testors. If they didn't own them how could have they kept them?

If someone is willing to spend such an excessive amount of money on one of those models, it is their prerogative to do so. That way the buyer is happy that they got what they wanted, and seller is happy with the profit. Unless we actually were to ask the buyer "why", we'll never know what drove them to buy it.

I also thought it was Eastern European, but the wheels looked like Porsche wheels.

If the photos are of the actual model they're selling then nobody's fooling anybody. The buyer knows exactly what they are getting and is willing to spend the (unreasonably high to many) amount of money on the model. It is worth it for them, and they have the money to spend. Our own Paul Hettick regularly sell finished models on eBay which often fetch way more than a thousand dollars. Those are curbside resin models. No engine, no opening features. But they are unique.

Funny or not, my orange capped hexagonal bottle (Item 87012) doesn't have "LIMONEN" on its label (just "TAMIYA CEMENT"), and it smells like acetone and alcohol. Is your bottle hexagonal or square? What is the item number (on its label)? I'm not here for a peeing contest - I just warned members here to stay away from any citrus-based cements, after it messed up my model.

No way man! Faith gets humanity in huge trouble (more ways than one). Metal foil which is incredibly thin, and retains its shape after forming is nothing like the fuzzy stuff you are using, I have never seen BMF lift off any surface (including it's backing carrier) all by itself. Sure, BMF can be lifted off if someone applies force to it (like scratching it), but like I mentioned, I worry that your stuff will lift all by itself. And trying to fix something on the car interior floor is not the easiest job. Yes, in your example, black carpeting deep in the model's deep and dark foot wells will not be very visible (especially if the floor was painted black to begin with. But I'm not trying to discourage you from using it - I just voiced my views on this method of model carpeting, and clearly also stated my reasons. This is from my life's experience with pressure sensitive adhesive materials. Others can make up their own mind.