peteski

Back in the earlier days of the World Wide Web, with basic HTML code, thing were simple and pretty much compatible with all the early browsers. Nowadays the coding got so darn complicated that there are always compatibility issues. Unfortunately there is no easy solution - and things will only get more complex in the future. The coding has gotten too complex and too many programmers are involved in the process, each one handling a small piece of the entire browser or website design. Updates (to the browsers and to the programs like the one running this forum) are double edge swords. They fix one thing and break another. These things are too complex to test every possible feature and interaction before releasing the update. There are just too many features and interdependancies. We're stuck in this quagmire called Internet.

Ah, Volkswagen "The Thing". Even has graphics proclaiming the American name. They don't show up often around this area (even at the car shows or cruise nights). Funny how VW commercialized a military vehicle and (mainly) hippies in the '60s embraced them. Now they are collector's items like many other low-end vintage vehicles.

Yes, color temperature plays important role i proper color rendition by cameras. But the other very important factor is Color Rendition Index (CRI) of the logth source. Sun of course has a very high CRI. Look for lamps or light bulbs with high CRI (90 or higher). For more details about CRI see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_rendering_index One way to improve color quality (assuming you have high CRI light source) is manually adjusted white color balance setting in your camera. I use it all the time when taking model photos. Even still the camera image sensors are not perfect. Some intense reds will not be as intense looking in a photograph. The image sensor does not have the same dynamic range as the eye. The other part of the equation is the computer monitors (display) when viewing the photos. Those also do not have the dynamic range of the human eye, and often do not show colors correctly. Professionals use very expensive equipment (cameras, monitors, and printers) with color profiles enabled for that equipment. That guarantees the best possible color rendition, but the high-end equipment is quite pricey (usually out of reach for an average person).

According to https://www.scalemates.com/kits/monogram-85-6744-bathtub-buggy-george-barris-saturday-night-mare-show-rod--959332 that kit was reissued in 2009 (earlier than I recalled), but still more recent than 1969. While that website is not always accurate, that entry seems on target. You might be able to find the 2009 release on eBay, or some other site where out of production models are sold. Will likely be less expensive than the first release.

Yes, very well built model! It must have been reissued after the 1969 initial run because I picked up one of them at a hobby shop probably 10 years ago. I don't have it handy to check, but I'm sure it was not the original release.

You used the same exact paint mixture, and brush-painted it dried smooth and glossy? Was it the same exact mix (including the thinner) as what was in the airbrush? You did mention that when the paint is still wet after airbrushing, ,it looks smooth and glossy until it dries That doesn't seem to make sense, but I would then think it has to be your airbrushing technique.

I seem to recall a mention that Archer Transfers closed shop not too long ago. It is good to see that they are still open for business.

I have never seen a 1oz. Testors glass bottle. The little square bottles are 1/4 oz. and the larger round ones (usually Model Master) are 1/2 oz. If you ever seen Floquil paint, that usually came in 1oz. round bottles (much larger than Testors). I was asking mainly to see if you were mixing different kinds of paints (which can be problematic). If the freshly sprayed paint surface looks smooth and shiny like glass, then I wonder if there is a problem with the paint itself. Like I said, before laying a coat on the model, try it on a plastic spoon and empty plastic soda bottle to see what results you get. Plastic spoons are quite inexpensive. On the other hand, maybe try to brush-paint a spoon using the same paint you are airbrushing with and see if it dries smooth.

I assume the photos showing the WIX box and Bldg. 19 price are of the truck's box? So yes, it seems that either the model manufacturer, or even Bldg. 19 had the WIX models custom repainted into their current paint job.

We need more details. What specific type paint did you use? From the little glass square bottles (PLA enamel), or round bottles (Model Master)? Or a spray can? I assume it is the stinky (not water-based) paint. You said you mixed. You mean you stirred/shook the paint, or mixed multiple colors (using the same type of paint of course). When you are spraying 3" from the surface, is the paint smooth and wet right after it laid down, or does it already have that texture while wet? I have brush-painted and airbrushed Testors paints for decades and they seemed to always work fine for me. But I have also heard that some new batches of Testors paint can be problematic. I have not bought any for some time. Another example where test spraying a plastic spoon could prevent possible stripping of the body, or very tedious sanding and polishing. It makes sense to learn on spoons (or plastic soda bottles) before dealing with the actual model.

LOL, yes. I don't know why but I thought you wrote "Believe it or not, it's not the first time it has happened to me, so I was clueless. " Looking at it now, the statement as I thought I saw it made no sense. but my brain was obviously not fully engaged.

This is the exact definition the club I belong to uses for their model contest rules (other clubs and contests rules might be different). BOX STOCK (additional requirement for Class 11 and 12 only): Finishing materials such as paint, metal foil, flocking and/or aftermarket decals are allowed. No other modifications or added details are permitted except as follows: Putty may be used to fill seams and/or to correct manufacturing flaws such as sink marks. Removal of details such as door handles, chrome trim or incorrect/extraneous underbody details are also allowed. Kit instructions MUST accompany the entry.

Yeah, the Super Kings trucks are around 1:64 scale

Never knew this existed. It reminds me of the Matchbox Super Kings Shell Tanker which I have in my collection.

OK, so what did you do the last time this happened to you?

Well, whatever dude. You'll never know what you didn't try. I'm not really interested in buying one either, but I was curious how they work. Now I know, and I feel educated.

Why not just put the decal in a ziploc bag and tape it to a window exposed to sun? That is the strongest source of wide-spectrum UV light. MegaWatts! I used natural sunlight to bleach decals in the past.

Might not be the best idea. It adding thinner to a paint, best is to use the same brand of thinner as the paint. Testors enamels use petroleum distillates which are chemically different than lacquer thinner. You might your your paint gelled after few months. And once enamel paint gels or partially solidifies (unlike lacquers), nothing will redissolve it.

Funny that this discussion was about other model-related forums, but it turned into free-speech gripe session. If one wants to discuss politics or religion, t here are places for that out there (liek FB or other non-modeling forums). To me modeling-themed forum is for modeling. Sure, many modeling forums have OT section, but many of the members don't even look at it, and the ones who participate usually post silly or entertaining things there (or obits).

That's correct. Just because they are lacquers, that doesn't automatically make them hot (unlike the lacquers designed to paint 1:1 metal-body cars, but which modelers used to paint plastic kits). Glosscote and Dullcote have been around for decades and are specifically designed for the hobby market.

The black coating on BMF can wear off, and it is too shiny for representing typical rubber gasket or even satin black painted trim. The silver edge will also be visible. Annd as others have said, it is not as pliable as the original or new chrome BMF.

But that is the visible diameter of the 1:1 rims. Rims of majority of the models are not accurate replicas of the 1:1 tire and rim. Model rims do not have lip. So visual diameter is what we use for models. The diagram afx posted is correct. If you were to use the diameter of the 1:1 tire bead, your model would not have accurately scaled wheels..

If none of those liquids removed tape residue, and only sanding took care of the problem, that to me indicates that it is not adhesive residue but the solvent in the paint you used permeated the tape and actually softened the plastic, so the tape's adhesive imprinted into the plastic. Either change the type of paint used, spray lighter layers, and remove the tape as soon as the paint flashes over.

I bought an Optivisor (good quality magnifier often seen used by jewelers) back in my 30's when my eyes were still excellent. I tried using it for some modeling tasks and found it very awkward. My naked eyes were quite up to the task without any magnification. fast forward few decades and now I couldn't do any modeling without that Optivisor. I'm addicted to it. Mine has a #7 lens plate which is fairly strong. When I don't need such high magnification, I just cheap reading glasses from a dollar store. I have 2.00 and 2.50 and those work well for me. In the meantime I also went to optometrist and got fitted for real reading glasses. Of course those work well too. I usually wear the glasses under my Optivisor. Optivisor's design is to me better than many other inexpensive ones because it shields the ambient light. I don't care for the magnifiers which just hang the lenses in front of your face. Plus the Oprivisor has removable lens plates, so you can easily switch between different magnification factors. Don't forget good illumination for your workbench - it is as important as good magnification.

Actually John, Testors Glosscote and Dullcote are lacquers, not enamels. They have always been lacquers. That is why they dry so fast.