peteski

I absolutely agree Steve . . . but for that we will have to patiently wait until he logs into the forum again.

LOL, no kidding! I should just keep a save a copy of my explanation, and paste it when needed to educate people that it is *NOT* just aluminum foil. BMF Chrome (or now Improved Chrome) is *NOT* just aluminum foil. It is made for some sort of secret (or not so secret) alloy of soft metals. It is much softer and more stretchy than aluminum foil, and if you compare it side by side to Al foil, the metal has a warmer color (sliht hint of orange orange hue). The fact that is it *NOT* just aluminum foil is what makes it so useful for areas with complex curves, or deep depressions we often have to "chrome" on model cars. To convince yourself that I'm not just blowing smoke, take a soldering iron, then put its tip to a piece of foil. It will melt instantly (like it was solder). Do the same with Al, foil and nothing will happen. I hope this will teach all the skeptics or uninformed modelers that BMF is not just another Al foil.

Well, since he has not visited here (to post any sort of a reply) since he originally started this thread, how can he possibly thank all of us? He can't. Maybe when he logs in next time, he will give all of us a big "thanks". Fair? We don't know why he has not visited since May 1st. Could be something serious, or maybe he just dropped out of the hobby in disgust of the sub-par materials he used. When I answer someone's question, I appreciate being thanked for (even if just using the "like" buttons we now have), but in this case the discussion has gotten out of control.

Looks very useful. Where do you get them?

Yes, hand-painting images on clear decal film is a handy way to make home-brew decals. Enamels (like Testors) work well. Not sure how well water-based acrylic enamels will stick to the paper, but I suspect it will work too. If you try using "hot" lacquers, those might affect (melt) the clear film. As Todd mentioned, applying dry transfers to the clear film, then applying the resulting image to the model is also a good way to deal with dry transfers (which would otherwise be difficult to apply to curved model surfaces) There are multiple sources of clear decal paper. I get mine from Bare-Metal (Foil) company. For what you are planning the decal paper made for laser printers (not ink jets) will work the best.

No? I bet you dollars to donuts that the green underglow is emitted by . . . green LEDs. Unless there are live flames under the car being showered by powdered copper.

Well, it isn't that clear. If you check their profile, last time they visited the forum was on May 1st (the same day they started this thread). So they have missed all the drama of the last 75 posts or so. Unless they read all the posts without logging in. Just to remind us all what the questions were about, here is a copy of the initial post: I was wondering if any of you have had any issues with Rust-oleum Painters Touch 2X Ultra cover? This evening I painted the hood of Moebius Ford F-250 snow plow truck. I put it in my Micro Mark drying oven for about an hour. When I removed it, not only was it still VERY tacky, it had glossy and dull areas on the exterior. It was dull over the areas that were stamped on the bottom to simulate the insulation. I've never had much luck with Rust-oleum spray bombs. They never seem to dry completely. I live in the Cincinnati area and I've been to local hardware stores and even the big box stores and no one seems to have Krylon anymore. Did they go out of business? The questions were valid and the entire post was clear, and well stated. While I have not reread all the posts in this thread, I have feeling that we have not answered most (or even any) of the questions. So when he returns to read this thread, there will be nothing to thank us for. Ain't this fun? So, has anybody here successfully used that specific type of paint on a plastic model (no primer brand was mentioned by the OP)? There are some other recent threads here about problems with Rustoelum in general - maybe he found them, and decided against using that brand of paint on models in the future. He then asked about availability of Krylon paints - was that question addressed by anybody? Yes I know, I'm being serious and logical - I need to cut that out.

Sorry, all out of all cheesy comestibles.

Yes, Eldorado, Riviera and Toronado of that time shared the same design, with the usually differences in the body panels, interiors and engines. The Caddy also had 4-wheel disk brakes, which is something very rate in Amercan cars of that size. It also has digital climate control (with built-in access to diagnostics), and mine also has the optional digital gauges. The '59 Caddy was the epitome of the '50s "fins" body style, and that makes a unique example of the cars of that time period. I think the designers realized that they "jumped the shark" and the 1960 Caddy had its fins trimmed, making it, IMO, a better looking car. That is not to say that I don't like or model the '59 Caddy.

Thanks! The '59 Caddy was way over the top with those huge fins (vertical stabilizers). '60 has fins, but it is more restrained. With all those straight lines and sharp edges, mine looks like a freshly pressed suit - elegant. But we are straying off topic here. Sorry!

Yes, Testors in a round bottle is the same liquid cement that has been around for decades in square bottles. Tamiya cement has also been around for a very long time. There are actually couple versions of Tamiya cement (different viscosites and drying times).

Thanks Jeff. '79-'85 were the same body style. Many (including mine) had the infamous HT4100 EFI V8 engine, but mine is ok so far. Hopefully by 1985 most of the issues have been worked out. I also had a '84 Eldorado as a daily driver in the '90s for few years, and that one did have an engine problem. That was before I was aware of the known issues. It is a very elegant looking car, and the convertibles are very nice too (IIRC it was the car featured on the old "Hart to Hart" TV series).

Me too. This is my '80s (1985) Caddy. I like its classic long-hood, short-back profile, and the sharply creased fenders that look like tiny fins. While it is smaller than the previous whale-sized Eldorados, it still has that soft boat-like ride quality. The soft white leather seats just add to that experience. But with 4-wheel independent suspension, torsion-bar suspension on the front, and stabilizer bar on both ends, it corners surprisingly well. This one has a 60/40 split front bench seat.

Ah ok, this is not the yellowing 5-minute epoxy. This one takes long time to set, and will likely not yellow. Like I mentioned, 5-minute epoxy is the bad stuff for clear lenses.

Actually, there is an aftermarket company, MODELER'S in Japan, which made a set of lenses. Not sure if they still make them. I bought them several years ago. I just dug them out to take the photo. The cost was 600 Yen (about $6US nowadays). They feature both, smooth lenses and ones with striations (which are on the inside part of the lens).

You're welcome Charlie. Yes, the group has been around for few decades. Originally there were 2 Yahoo Alps groups, but when Yahoo killed the groups we created a single group on groups.io website. The link to the group is https://alps.groups.io/g/ALPS . It is an email group, but it can also be accessed through the web interface (very similar to this forum). That is how I participate in it. It is not very active nowadays, but there are still 2700 members, and the groups archives and Files section have lotos of useful info about the ALps printers and printing techniques.

Whatever floats your boat. Those businesses you mentioned (that do things the way approve) - do they all do it as a side business and have regular full time job?

Yes, the halftones Alps uses to create various colors are rather coarse, but there is a solution for most of them. I haven't seen your name on the Alps group I moderate, so you might not be aware of a company called Elephant's Rocket in Japan. They service Alps printers, and also offer a large selection of their own Alps color ribbons. So with some spot color printing you can come up with solid colors not achievable using standard CYMK inks. The ink cartridges are rather pricey, but to me worth it. You get a discount is you buy a complete set of colors (that's what I did). The website is rather cryptic and confusing (as it is created by a Japanese individual with not very good grasp of English), but the ink cartridges are a Godsend. The inks are listed at https://www.paoon.com/decal/aybhkdabq.html Colors like grays, browns, cream, light blue, and many others are now possible. I bought the enter set of 20.

Sniff, sniff.

Well ok, but it is much more fun mixing your own.

Well, even the, this thing is a size of a lentil, and there is an extra ridge on the inside of the outer ridge. I still think that even as smooth as you could make it, the resulting mirror will still be like a fun-house mirror. If one wants to go the paint route then make a template like I mentioned, then make a filler piece using some 0.010" or 0.015" flat styrene. Glue that in (using a non-solvent glue, like JB-Weld or other epoxy, so not to distort the thin styrene). then put a coat of chrome paint. But Mylar film will be more "mirrory". Yes, I do "sweat the small stuff" while modeling.

Maybe those adhesives are too expensive? EDIT: Since Ace found this post confusing, let me clarify: It was a joke based on the notion that many car modelers are a thrifty.

In order for the chrome paint to look like a mirror, the surface has to be mirror glass smooth. Surface or JB Weld is nowhere as smooth. Call me anal . . .

Exactly. This person does not have to make molds or cast resin (both messy and time consuming tasks). They have much more time to provide better communications. Plus eBay has the framework all set up to make selling and shipping easier.

True, and it seems that push-button transmission gear selectors are coming back in vogue. Except they are now electronic, not mechanical. That Caddy XLR is on the same platform as the Corvette, so you can say that is is a Corvette.