peteski

Exactly. As you correctly interpreted my thoughts - I was making a point that is seems futile to expect members to religiously use tags or add scale info in the subject line. Les, I'm far from perfect - I pretty sure I would also often forget to use those simple rules. So which word could be used to describe those individuals and not set off the disrespectful alert?

Actually, just looking at this section of the forums one can see how clueless members are about starting threads in the correct forum. Just look at all those moved threads (and there are plenty more here). With this in mind how can we expect members to use tags or mention scale in the Subject line? Actually TBH, even this thread doesn't belong in this section. This section is specifically for "Model Cars Magazine News and Discussions. This is for news and discussion about the magazine. We will be posting news and announcements, and you are welcome to ask questions. As always, please be respectful. " It is not for discussions about the MCM online forum. Better fit for this thread would be in the "How To Use This Board" section.

Yes, BMF foil is really the best if using their metallic color foils. You might have had a batch which was made when they had production problems with their adhesives (around COVID pandemic time). But even if the adhesive was good, that foil has a shiny surface, not really good for representing plastic or rubber on model cars. Yours looks more realistic with it's satin/flat finish. I'm glad to see that the Tamiya acrylic paint adhesion to the metal foil is good enough to withstand burnishing. There is a BMF foiling technique discussed on another thread on the forum where you first apply thin strip of masking tape to create a cutting guide around the window opening for trimming the foil. Using that method, especially if there is no molded-in gasket on the body, makes trimming the foil easier.

Maybe laziness too, but as I see it most of us are just too scatter-brained to remember to add a tag or scale to the subject line. Many members can't even properly determine which section of the forum their new thread belongs to. Trying to get everybody to follow the protocol would be futile, unless the forum's software forced a member starting a new thread to add a tag or include scale in the subject line. Sort of like having mandatory fields on other websites where you will not get past filling those out completely.

Good luck with it. Old electronic gadgets are fun!

Going by the date on the speaker, that thing is older than I am. I assume you cleaned the battery contacts. The variable capacitor used for tuning is the large transparent cube in the upper left corner. Since there aren't any contacts in those, they shouldn't need cleaning, but you might want to quickly spin the tuning knob fast few times from one end of the dial to the other . The on/off and volume control potentiometer is the black circular item with three rivets located in the upper right side under the ferrite antenna. That might need a spritz of tuner cleaner. With a new battery does the speaker make any sound (like crackling) when you quickly change the volume from min to max? The electrolytic capacitors could have dried up, but I would have expected this to happen gradually, not suddenly. Those are the cylinders with heat-shrink sleeve over them. I guess one of the transistors could have died. Those are the cylindrical metal components with no heat-shrink. rest of the components (ceramic disc caps, inductors, transformers) are pretty much bullet-proof but I guess maybe there might be a cold solder joint somewhere. If you have an old-fashion TV/radio electronic repair shop or a Ham operators club nearby, they might be able to look at it and maybe fix it, but electronic repair shops and skilled techs familiar with old technology are getting rare.

That is exactly my point! Why do we have to over-analyze things like this to death? Trash it - burn it - rebuild it. Whatever. Just do whatever you feel like doing.

Is it a vacuum tube or a transistor radio?

Yes, lack of law enforcement is a big issue. Offenders are getting bolder because nobody slaps their hands.

I can't believe we are on a 2nd page 9over 25 replias) of this topic. Burn it! Really!

Sure, adding tags or including mention of the scale in the thread's subject line would be a great solution, but the problem is getting members to actually use them. Judging by many "click-bait" uninformative subject lines like "Look at this", or even all the threads started in wrong section to begin with, trying to get everybody to create useful subject lines, or even better - tags, is pretty much an impossible task. Then there are newbies who join the forum and won't know the rules. That just ain't happening.

I agree Steve, this sure is an overlooked gem of a model. Even built box-stock, just with some detail painting (like one I build some years ago) the original S-10 shows lots of detail.

Sure, but I doubt your camera has a built-in browser. There must be some additional steps you take to transfer the photos (JPG?) to some computer device (PC, Tablet. etc.) which has a browser pointed to the MCM forum and then you try to upload them here. So what are those steps?

Jon, you've been a member since 2014. You don't remember when Big Boys section was part of the forum and the big reshuffle few years back when several sections were eliminated? I also miss that separate section, but I also remember it wasn't very active.

Well, that changes things a bit.

Really? Air pressure regulators at Harbor Freight start around $7. If you can afford an airbrush, extra seven bucks is not all that much. That's less than a McDonalds Big-Mac and fries. Airbrushing using unregulatod (high) pressure is not very controllable. Might as well use a spray can paints. https://www.harborfreight.com/150-psi-air-compressor-regulator-kit-with-dial-gauge-68223.html?gStoreCode=3357&gQT=1

Thanks Rich! So as I suspected, that glue contains solvent which is hot enough to affect polystyrene (while being safe on 3D printed resin and likely on urethane resins used for old-school resin cast kits). Usually seeing the "Warning: Flammable" on the tube likely indicates that the adhesive uses a hot solvent which might affect polystyrene.

Various online forms censor different ranges of naughty words. On this forum if one of the naughty words is used the message will still post, but the word will be replaced with a "safe" text. I think here they use blah-blah. You will not see "page not found" error. The "page not found" think seems to be generated when one of the forbidden database control words is in the contents of the post. That to me seems like a bug in the forum's software or just sloppily written code if it might allow for the words within the text of a post possibly gain control of the forum's database.

Bob, since you were obviously to create the post which start this thread, you can successfully post messages to the forum. Les' explanation seems to be most likely cause for the error you're seeing. This forum can be very touchy about certain words contained within the post's text. We had a similar situation few years ago, but then the problem went away. I suspect that the more recent updates to the software running the forum re-enabled this "protection" from possible hacking.

Playing forum's psychiatrist, that to me sounds like it is more than just dislike of spouse's hobbies - the problem seems to be rooted much deeper. There is also a difference between actively disliking and just being passively uninterested.

Looks like a typical photo stitching problem from street view in Google Maps (or a really bad Photoshop job).

That BMF problem still seems odd to me. I have used 20+ years old BMF (the original Chrome) on models without having problems with either the adhesive or wrinkling. BMF as you know if a real metal foil. To me it seems that to develop wrinkles after application the metal would actually have to expand somehow (with the extra material having to go somewhere, creasting wrinkles), or the surface it was applied to would have to shrink, with the same results. Not sure what the age of the metal foil would have to do with this. But I do see that the foil on your model is wrinkled. I guess the cause will remain a mystery (and contributing it to the material's age is as explanation as any).

Thanks for the information Rich. You mention using it on 3D printed resin parts. That type of material is pretty resistant to what we call "hot" solvents. I wonder if the Gorilla Contact Cement also has a hot solvent which might affect polystyrene of a typical plastic kit. Is there a list of contents on the tube which would show what type of solvent is in that cement?

I have never (until now) heard or seen BMF wrinkle after application. Was the part in question resin case (as opposed to kit's polystyrene part)? If yes, maybe the resin shrunk causing the foil to wrinkle?

There is no simple answer to this question. Generally Tamiya produces models with best fitting parts, but you are limited to the subjects they sell. This hobby is not about best manufacturer but what specific subject you want to model. If you research the specific model you want to build and then you find out that multiple companies make the model of the same vehicle, then you can start asking which manufacturer's model of that particular vehicle is the "best". Best is also relative as some models of the same vehicle might have certain options not available in the kit of the same vehicle from another manufacturer.