taaron76

After shoveling snow all day, I was able to get some of the engine built and get the fuel lines ran from the fuel pump to the carbs. Not identical to the original Hemi, but it will work. Molar guys, please don't shoot me. lol Tim

Very nice, Steven! Tim

Joe - If it helps, I usually take about 100 photos and only wind up using 5-8. lol I take them with different settings, lighting, exposure, flash compensation, etc... You know when you find the one you want. Trial and error I guess. Looking great! Tim

Awesome! This kit is going on my list. Tiim

I worked on the rear suspension to drop it just a tad to compensate for the new tires I put on the rear wheels. It definitely fits the part, now. Tim

Are you shooting with a flash?

Thanks, Joe! If it ain't broke... don't fix it. I think its more of the airbrushee and technique, more than anythingI could probably get great results at 15-20 PSI as well. Tim

I always shoot alcohol through it before I wash it when shooting acrylics. This seems to get all the paint out of those hard to reach places. 935k3 is right about the rubber o-ring or seal. Some solvents will dry them out or help them expand, then you have to replace them. Tim

WOW! A complete beauty!!! I'm doing a custom of the '62 after my Cuda build and you have me some great ideas for the interior, which looks amazing!!! Tim

Joe - Did you sleep last night? lol Great tip on the head lights! I never really thought about applying future or clear over them to make 'em look like glass. Sweet! Tim

Lee, I guess it would be too high if I wasn't getting great results, but being the paint flowed so good @ 40 PSI I went with it. Everything I have read and seen has been from 15-40 PSI. Is there such a thing as the correct PSI? Tim

I think so, too. Oh well, I'll have a couple of sets of 23's for future builds. I'm sure I can find something to put them on. Thanks, Roger! Tim

Roger, Tom - I think I found the fix for filling up the back wheelwells, but I ordered the 23" Pegasus to see what it looks like. I "borrowed" these off of my daughters Lambo snap-tite kit. They fit perfectly and they are a little wider. Thanks for the suggestions! Tim

Very nice! Tim

Amazing! Tim

Looks great! Tim

Cool build! Tim

Nice! Tim

X2 Tim

Wow! So cool!!! Tim

Jim - Got it. Glad you pointed that out. Thanks! Tim

BMF is the last step prior to putting the windows in and mounting the body on the chassis, for me. I will polish and wax before BMF is applied, but I clean the areas really good with a Q-tip and thinner or alcohol to remove any of the polish or wax residue. I've never had any issue with it not sticking by doing this. I was having a hard time with BMF sticking to my door handles on my recent '66 Shelby build. I sprayed some hairspray on a toothpick and used that to apply to the door handle itself, then applied the BMF and let it dry for 15-20 minutes. It worked out great and gave it a little extra bite in order to get it to stick so I could cut off what I didn't need. Tim

... continuation since I am having issues posting. Jim - Every time I start a new build, I try and push the envelope a little more each time. So far, my trials have turned out for me to be successes, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to pass the knowledge on to others... just as you have done with all of your builds. Hopefully, someone can take something away from it and improve their builds. Thanks for passing your knowledge down to us "newbs". Joe - Thanks, bro! Tim

Jim - I think it was you that actually sent me down the path of shooting Tamiya acrylics with denatured alcohol, if I remember correctly, so I owe you a big THANKS! I'd rather strictly use Tamiya, but they have a limited set of acrylic colors to choose from, unfortunately. This was the first time I've ever used Testors as a base coat and Tamiya as the clear coat. I liked the way it turned out and I will definitely do it again in the future, especially considering Testors has a pretty good selection of acrylic colors available. I'm definitely going to try lacquer thinner in my next attempt with Testors acrylic. As far as the dehydrator goes, I started using it when I let one gas out and cure for about 10 days and noticed it wasn't ready to be wet sanded after I had already started. Granted, I wasn't using Tamiya with denatured alcohol yet, so that may have been the issue. I've had great success with the dehydrator and have noticed that it helps flatten out the paint even more if you let it air dry for 10-15 prior to sticking it in. I typically am not very bashful when it comes to laying down the clear, but I do that because I've sanded through to the base coat before on a metallic base coat and as you probably already know, once you hit the metallic base coat, it's time to strip it and start over again. Tim

Nice and clean! Tim