SfanGoch

Those are auxiliary fuel tanks. The B-52 is a strategic bomber and does not possess aqny capability to refuel other aircraft. That's what a KC-135 Stratotanker was designed for.

Thanks Steve, I knew that. I was confused by Mark's comment. I bought a few '66 kits as donors for the '67-'69 Rivieras I picked up on fleabay some years back.

What mistake on the newer '66 kit would that be?

Chuck the sprue section. Run the rotary tool at 15K RPM, moving a flat file up and down against the sprue, maintaining pressure on it. Check periodically to see if it's beginning to round up, Once it's round, place the file along the top at an angle to shape the tip. When the desired shape is obtained, reduce the speed to 10K RPM and, using 400 grit paper, smooth the part. Finally, polish it as I indicated in a previous post. You can use this part as a master to make a mold and cast identical parts. Alumilite Amazing Mold Putty is great for making small molds. It's ready to use in about twenty minutes. I use Bondo Fiberglass Resin to cast parts with this. Mix a small amount of clear red acrylic paint into it and it makes decent tail lights.

Not Easy Chrome.

It works. I did it a couple years ago.

Yeah, that it is. If one were to splurge on something, this would be it.

Kit glass, head and tail lights are also made from polystyrene. Without getting into a detailed technical explanation, transparent polystyrene is hard and brittle because it is essentially a clear resin. Styrene of various colors, including white, are produced by the addition of colorants/dyes and additives which make it impact resistant, i.e. less brittle.

He last visited on Friday at 3:01 A.M.

Alsa Easy Chrome has multiple uses, from automotive to hobbies. Check it out at this link, Noel. Click on Easy Chrome 6oz. for the price. It's available in aerosol cans; however, that option is better for large things as seen on that page. The problem with using aerosol cans to spray small parts is product waste in the form of overspray. The 6oz. can is much more economical in the long run because you only use what you need, overspray is drastically reduced and you can pour any unused amounts back into the can. Steve might have different results regarding Revell Chrome Spray's durability; but, seeing that the reviewer was able to scratch it off fairly easily, makes it a deal breaker for me.

I tried watching the video but found them too friggin' ponderous. It has one thing in common with a lot of other reviews; too much hand waving and useless gum flapping. It's a technique similar to what Three-card Monte dealers in NYC do to distract suckers. The video presentation is too long at almost 25 minutes. It took over seven minutes before he actually tested it. The entire review could have been accomplished in 10-15 minutes if not for all of the peripheral asides. IMO, not worth the money. As seen in the video, it's not that durable, prone to scratching and it can't be sealed with any type of clearcoat without affecting it. I know some of you are tired of me saying it; but, save up some money and get a 6oz. container of Alsa Easy Chrome. It doesn't scratch or rub off and, if you think it necessary, can be clearcoated with Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear.

If you have a keyless chuck for your rotary tool. you could secure the material in it and, using files, sandpaper and X-acto blades to round up and shape it. When you achieve the appropriate shape, polish the piece while still in the chuck with some polishing compound on a cloth. Run the tool at medium speed and place the cloth over the part, applying light pressure while it spins.

Got this in March. It's the ICM 1/35 scale Sikorsky CH-54A Tarhe. I bought it from a Polish online shop for $166 including tax and shipping. It's HUGE!

You're better off using a two-part epoxy, like Magic-Sculpt, to fill in sink marks or small holes. I wouldn't recommend Milliput. Even the fine is too coarse to my liking.

Not good. The "sprue goo" takes a very long time for the solvent to evaporate and is always softer than the styrene parts it's applied on. Personally, I don't understand wanting to use thicker glue/cement to attach parts. It's messy and takes to long for the parts to weld. Methylene chloride or MEK cements accomplish the task much better.

Don't use a #11 blade. Its intended use is to cut, not scribe. Get some stainless PE scribes like Hauler HQT004 Stainless Scribers. They are .3mm thick.

I understand they can replicate Welch's Flintstones jelly jars with a 3% +/- 3% accuracy.

There are LIDAR scanners with better scanning resolutions available. The cost plenty o'dough, though.

You'd do better making a 3D model with Play-Doh.

From the Polycam website: Up to 2% accuracy....essentially 98% inaccurate and not worth bothering with.

A.4 or .5mm wire can be used to attach a door handle through a pre-drilled hole on the door and CA can be applied from the back side of the hole to secure the door handle without damaging the painted side.

The EL wire requires an inverter to operate on DC current. Perhaps Chad used something similar to this.

Sounds like Armor-All for model cars.

Harts Parts Resin does.

I purchase Weld-On 3 by the pint.