SfanGoch

Some people might find it hard to believe that Lindberg produced decent model kits other than just cars. You're just not old enough to know that.

Atlantis won't divulge what toolings they obtained. Nobody, except Atlantis, bought the toolings from the Revell liquidation sale. They have most, if not all, of the U.S.-stored Aurora/Revell/Monogram car toolings which in all probability include the '62 Mopars. The only one which would require reverse engineering is the Dodge Dart. The body was hacked up to create the Dodge Revellion funny car.

More like insayin' Management-Speak.

I asked why all the Lindberg car kits were being reboxed as AMT on the R2 Facebook page and the reply was a bunch of double-talking-from-both-sides-of-the-mouth gibberish about R2's commitment to provide the best service to its customers. In plain English, "We're gutting Lindberg of any and all decent kits to shore up the big guy line, leaving the junk kits."

Alclad exhibits the identical dulling as Testors Metalizers when a clearcoat is applied. The clearcoat flattens the metallic pigments so that they reflect light uniformly, leaving you with a shiny, but non-reflective, sheen. You end up with a finish that looks like the liner inside of a Hot Pockets holder, just shinier.

The 6oz. size comes in a plastic bottle, which is perfect for airbrushing. Compared to the 12oz. rattle can, there's no product waste. You only use what you need. Plus, it's a better deal than getting the Hobby Kit which contains only 2oz bottles of EC and basecoat, four Speed Shapes and a polishing cloth. I've tested MM gloss black enamel and acrylic, Gunze Aqueous and Mr. Color Gloss Black and Revell Email 32107/Aqua Color 36107 Gloss Black as basecoats and all are acceptable. The Hobby Kit includes a clear water-based urethane basecoat which is fantastic. It can be thinned with water, Tamiya X-20A Thinner or similar acrylic thinners to improve flow. I need to contact Alsa to see if they sell the clear basecoat in bottles. You can use other clear water-based urethanes, too. TCP Global carries a couple different brands If you feel the need to use a topcoat, Alclad ALC600 Aqua Gloss Clear works. It doesn't affect the finish/reflectivity of the Easy Chrome. If you handle the chromed part and leave any fingerprints, use a soft, lint-free cloth, like the tee shirt you might be wearing at the time , and wipe them off. I'm going to refinish all of the chrome on my son's Schwinn Grey Ghost krate bike with EC.

I use mixtures of Vallejo Model Color acrylics to create rust, weathering and stain effects over Alclad and Easy Chrome. There's no steep learning curve in learning how to do it. This is a 1/35 resin Detroit Diesel 8V-92TA 12.06-liter diesel engine by Real Model for the Hobbyboss M1070 HET tractor: Easy Chrome is airbrush-applied and imparts a real chrome finish. First pic is an SMP/AMT '61 Imperial grille finished w/Easy Chrome: This is a Johan '60 Desoto grille: I defy you to say that the finish is not equal to, or, better, than kit chrome. The last two pics show you can do that. Additionally, it can be brushed on small details. As far as being worth the money, it certainly and most definitely is. As I previously commented,

It's an enamel solvent-based knock-off of Easy Chrome. Unlike Mirror, which requires at least 24 hours to dry (solvent evaporation) before handling, Easy Chrome is lacquer-based, dries hard and is safe to handle in 15-20 minutes. Mirror is ridiculously expensive, 40 bucks for 15ml (about 1/2 ounce). a 6oz. bottle of Easy Chrome costs $170. An equivalent amount of Mirror will cause $480 worth of damage to your credit card for a product which is inferior in quality to Easy Chrome.

The company is AMMO by Mig, owned by Jose "Mig" Rodriguez. Jose was the owner of Mig Productions, followed by AK Interactive. He left AK Interactive after a falling out with co-owner Fernando Vallejo (no connection to Amadeo Vallejo of Acrylicos Vallejo who, coincidentally, is a Jersey guy and started the company there in 1965, moving the company to Spain in 1969) and started a new company, the aforementioned AMMO by Mig. From Britmodeller: Alclad paints are sold by AMMO under the A-Stand brand. Therefore, any claims that A-Stand lacquers are superior to Alclad are nothing more than marketing B.S. since both are the same product.

Dollars to donuts, Peter Vetri, owner of Atlantis, has the toolings, minus the tires. Most likely, they were among the items obtained from the Revell U.S. warehouses during the liquidation sale. I wouldn't be surprised if he's working on new tooling for the tires and possibly the glass.

It costs more; but, Alsa Easy Chrome is the best on the market. Unlike Hyper Chrome, Alclad and especially Molotow Chrome ink, it doesn't require a clear topcoat to seal it, can be handled without rubbing off, never dulls and it looks like real chrome. Satisfied user since 2014.

Nice! The Testors 356 is a re-box of the Fujimi kit and is just as hard to find.

Tru-Color paints are excellent. Large and expanding range of automotive, armor, naval and railroad colors. They can be mixed and blended to create custom colors/shades. They are acrylic solvent-based, containing a small amount of acetone. That said, don't get creative by thinning them with acetone or lacquer thinner. From the Tru-Color FAQ:

The Metalflake kits command some major triple digit bucks. Every once in a while, you can run across one on fleabay for a really good price ($50-$80 range) because the sellers doesn't realize their relative rarity. The scarcest kits are the Newport and Imperial Crown. The majority available are really trashed out junkers, missing all of the important parts like hoods, engines, glass and most of the chrome, in the $100+ range. I was super lucky to have snagged the mint Imperial Crown for 79 bucks after I mentioned to the seller that he engine block halves were missing. When I received it, I found the parts inside the folded instruction sheet.

Revell produced two series of six 1962 Mopar kits, one (H-1250-H-1255) molded in colored styrene and the other (H-1260-H-1265) in Metalflake: H-1250/1260 - Valiant V-200 4 Door HT H-1251/1261 - Plymouth Fury 2 Door HT H-1252/1262 - Dodge Dart 440 # Door HT H-1253/1263 - Dodge Lancer GT H-1254/1264 - Chrysler Newport Convertible H-1255/1265 - Imperial Crown I've been lucky and snagged four: Plymouth Fury (Metalflake), Dodge Dart (Metalflake), Lancer GT (white styrene) and Imperial Crown (burgundy red styrene).

It's definitely a Revell. The odd points on the front and rear center edges of the roof are found only on the Revell Fury and Dart.

Fixing the lame hood moulding is fairly easy. Steve sent me a picture of his SMP '60 Bonneville hood a few years back because I wanted to correct it. I dug up the correction pic and annotated it with the steps. Using the SMP hood as a benchmark, the SMP moulding is 51 mm long. Trumpeter's is 45 mm, a difference of 6mm. 1. Carefully remove the spear. It's wrong in every way and it's simpler to make a new one from styrene strip or .016" aluminum sheet (to get that authentic metal look ?). 2. Measure and mark a line 4 mm from the rear tip of the moulding. 3. Measure and mark a line 2 mm from the front tip of the moulding. 4. From the 4 mm line, measure and mark a distance of 25 mm on the moulding. Draw parallel lines on both outer edges of the moulding and cut that entire section out. Once that is completed, cut off the 4 mm segment indicated in Step 2. Slide the section to abut the rear of the cut in the hood and cement in place. 5. Measure and mark a line 2 mm back from the front tip of the moulding. Draw parallel lines along the outer edges of the moulding from this line indicated in Step 3. Cut and remove this entire section. Cut off the 2 mm area from the front of this section, insert and cement the moulding tip to abut the cut. The two gaps increase the length of the moulding by a combined 6 mm, making the moulding 51 mm long, matching the length on the SMP Bonneville hood. 6. The last step is to fill in the gaps. I prefer to use Magic-Sculpt two-part epoxy because it has a smoother consistency and is easier to work with than Milliput and is better than attempting to jam pieces of styrene then trying to carve them into shape. It cures rock-hard and can be easily sanded or carved. Mix a small amount of Magic-Sculpt and insert it into the gaps. It's easy to manipulate while setting. You can use drill bits, burrs, micro-chisels or homemade tools to sculpt and adjust to match the shape/contours. When the Magic-Sculpt has cured, you can use, if you have them, 400 grit burrs, or 499 grit wet/dry sandpaper to make final adjustments to the shape. Fabricate a new spear and you're finished. It's not perfect; but, it sure looks a hell of a lot better than what it was originally.

Great looking build, Sidney. The colors definitely work, sort of like leather upholstery. It's a really nice kit when one puts a little effort into it. Steve, using either the SMP/AMT '60 Bonneville or the Revellogram '59/'60 Impala roofs as benchmarks, from front edge of the windshield frame to the edge of the rear window trim, the roofs of all three measure 51mm. The Trumpeter Bonneville roof is 49mm. To correct this, a few cuts need to be made on the Bonneville roof and tulip panel. 1. Remove the posts and the 1mm lip along the top of the window openings (bottom edge of roof) from the vent window all the way to the base of the C pillar. Next, cut across the roof to where the posts were located. 2. Measure and mark a parallel line 13mm from the outer lip of the trunk. 3. Measure and mark a parallel line 11mm from the outer lip of the trunk. 4. Measure and mark a perpendicular line (15mm long) from the front edge of the C pillar to line indicated in Step 3. Using a PE saw, cut along lines 3 & 4 to remove the roof section. Once it is removed, saw off along the line drawn in Step 2. This section is 2mm wide, the exact discrepancy between the incorrect Bonneville roof and that of the Revellogram Impalas and AMT/SMP Bonneville. When the Trumpeter roof section is attached to the tulip panel, there will be a corresponding 2mm gap at the top of the roof between the cut sections. Using Evergreen 344 (1.0 x 2.0mm) strip, or 2mm sheet to fill the gap, grind and sand to match the roof contour. If you prefer, you can mix fiberglass resin and microballoons instead. Just place a piece of tape on the top and fill in with the resin from underneath. Sand and adjust as with the styrene strip.

VMS Track Black or drop the chain in chlorine bleach.

That's a Revell H1252 1962 Dodge Dart 440 Four Door HT. Revell H1251 Plymouth Fury is a 2 Door HT. If you can find, or have, a junk Johan C-4162 '62 Dart HT or C-4862 '62 Dodge Dart Convertible, you can scavenge all of the parts to rebuild your body. The Johan glass and interior fit perfectly. If you have a Lindberg '64 Plymouth or Dodge, you can use the engine, chassis and suspension, which are more detailed than the Johan parts. Edit: My mistake. This is the Revell '62 Fury.

It's scheduled for two weeks ago. Don't be late.

Ugh! No disrespect intended; but, what is it with you guys? In the past month, I made two separate postings about the '57 Nomad. I even included Peter's reply to my email about its status; yet, nobody seems to pay attention or read previous comments because the same question keeps popping up. I guess his own words aren't good enough for some members.

Read my previous post. It's already an established fact.

The Skip's Fiesta Nomad is nothing more than a rebox of the original 1969 H-1260. All of the parts are the same in every reissue.

Reply to an email I sent regarding the '57 Nomad: