SfanGoch

Tamiya liquid cement with the orange cap is more viscous than the quick setting thin varieties.

Go with the best. Get a Martin Paints' patented Glassy Eggshell Finish Paint Roller made with supple, natural, hand-combed Fleem®©™ fibers. If it's swell enough for Ralph Kramden, it's plenty swell enough for you. Unfortunately, you're on the hook for the carfare to go travel to 1956.

Bridget Fonda then and now.

OT, my old friend Mikey Yugo once repainted his car using a paint roller which imparted an interesting stucco-like texture.

Both have been around for decades Thicker isn't better. It's that much more excess to remove after the cement sets. The best method to use liquid cements is to brush a small amount on the mating surfaces of both parts to "prime" them. This dries quickly. Then, positioning and holding the parts together, apply the cement with a fine tipped brush at the joint/seam. Priming the parts allows the cement you apply afterwards to flow through the join and sets up in 10-15 seconds, which is plenty of time to make final positioning adjustments. I build a lot of 1/35 armor and 1/48 aircraft, which have extremely small, difficult to position fidgety parts and have used this method for years with no problems.

Nope. Every single flea market attended or run by nasally, helium voiced stick figures wearing their sisters' skinny jeans is identical. Anything which was tossed out as garbage ends up for sale at them. They forced the sidewalk flea markets around Astor Place out of business because they beat the junkies to all of the good stuff, including bedbug-infested couches and mattresses.

All of the links are dead. The Scale Production lenses are currently out of stock.

I checked the website. No listing for this.

It would be nice if there were aftermarket headlight lenses produced. Unfortunately, other than making them ourselves, we're stuck having to cannibalize complete kits which have them. This creates a vicious circle.

Using a rotary polisher runs the risk of burning through and ruining the paint and clearcoat. Get a set of micro-mesh polishing pads. You have more control over how much pressure is applied. Using paste waxes, such as Turtle wax or The Treatment, deepens the color of non-clearcoated finishes. They also have the tendency to remove the paint if rubbed too hard.

Only if you use a paper bag.

Buying any one of those is cheaper than the combined cost of a tube of glue and liquid cement.

Thinning tube glue with a liquid cement is a ponderous method to create something which already exists. Plastruct Plastic Weld and Bondene, for example. accomplish the same thing. So do Testors 3502XT and Tamiya 87012 with no strings attached, (pun intended). All of these liquid cements allow time to properly position parts.

Yeah, a 180 horsepower behemoth.

There hasn't been a real Cadillac since the '74-'76 Sedan de Ville.

Ink jet.

That's exactly what I would do to my AMT Impala. If I had a Revell '63 to cannibalize.

I'll take your word since you're actually using it.

National Lampoon was the first to write a parody on this. It was a two-part story in the September and October 1982 issues. Speaking of coyote sightings, this happened in March. Coyote takes casual morning stroll through Queens

Wile E. Coyote v. Acme Company

If you want to add a '63 Impala to your stash, or just to build, might as well get the AMT kit and put your modeling skills to work because it doesn't seem like Revell will be reissuing its version anytime soon. Or later. Fleabay prices border on the ridiculously expensive.

Alumilite Amazing Mold Putty would work. Picks up the finest details.

Snagged another Revell '62 Lancer GT for cheap on fleabay a few minutes ago.

It's a GM A-body platform. Chassis from '65-'67 AMT/Revell Chevelles and the AMT/Lindberg '66-'67 Olds 442 kits would work.