SfanGoch

A few things I have noted concerning problems you've encountered while constructing this kit: Granted, this kit requires extra care in assembling; however, the "fiddliness" is grossly overstated. Some tips for a future build of this kit: This is the simplest remedy to fix the chassis to floorpan problem: The rollbar supports need to be attached to the chassis so that the thick portion mounted on the lower rear crossmember is absolutely perpendicular when viewed from the rear of the chassis. If properly installed, the outer edges will be even with the outside edge of the door panels and there will be a 2mm gap between the topmost portion of the supports and the back edge of the door panel. Also, there will be a 1mm gap between the top of the support and the bottom of the shelf on the floorpan. You can make a small triangular bracket which is found on the actual support from 1mm styrene sheet. Also, there is very little clearance between the rollbar supports and the tire on the actual car. This kit was designed with very close tolerances, just as the real Grand Sports were. The reason you had to add that styrene to the lower portion of the headers to adjust the spacing is because you removed those "pegs" They are part of the headers and should not have been removed. The spacer you added between the headers and exhaust is equal to the length of those pegs. The HRM headers are exact copies of the kit parts with the addition of molded-on flanges. You should have used the PE flanges. Believe it or not, the tires are not oversized. I have the book "Corvette Grand Sport" by Dave Friedman. I have examined the photos, and every available one online. The sidewall height of the front and rear kit tires is spot on when compared to the period photos. The fender flare lips are accurately modeled. They do not require thinning. Period photos of Chassis 002, after which this kit (No. 5000) was designed, clearly show that the flare height is correct. Incidentally, Kit No. 5000 was the only GS kit which included the fuel line block (Part 3); although, its installation was not mentioned nor shown anywhere in the instruction sheet. The problem you encountered with the top of the differential is the way you assembled the rear chassis components. This is one kit which requires the builder to follow the assembly instructions to the letter. The radius arms should be slid, not glued, onto the halfshafts. Position and glue the rear suspension onto the rear crossmember and press, but do not glue, the radius arms into their respective locations on the lower crossmember. The reason for not gluing the radius arms to the halfshafts is that it will allow you to make horizontal adjustments to the ride height. The bottom of the differential should barely rest on the differential support located on the lower rear crossmember. If you properly install the suspension according to the instructions, only the front tip of the flange on the top of the differential makes contact with the gas tank and you wouldn't have to deal with all of that grinding. Location of the oil filter (Part 47) is described and indicated in Step 6 Body of the instructions. It's glued to the left front wheel well (Part 48). Location and attachment of the upper (Part 11) and lower (Part 12) coolant hoses is shown and described in Step 4 Engine installation. A couple of side notes. The Weber 58 DCO carbs look great; BUT, they're modeled incorrectly. The flange tips where the trumpets are mounted to the carb should be facing outward, not toward the center of the carb body. If you hollow out the mount locations on the engine block, the engine mounts will sit higher up, giving you enough clearance so the hood fits properly and not float. You've done a great job so far. I'm only offering my observations and tips for easier construction which I gained from building this kit myself.

It's considered the General Tso's Galaxy of Prawns of the automotive world.

Another home run, Steve.

To quote W.C. Fields, "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with....." You know the rest.

It'll never be produced as a car. It's being used to test design concepts that'll show up in the next generation of crossovers. Everybody's nuts about driving around in four wheeled humpback whales.

I believe both are produced by the same company, just packaged for their respective labels.

Buick Landshark.

So is Buckwheat.

That front end is designed to make stay-in-the-slow-lane beta male drivers feel like apex predator road warriors when they parallel park.

It's a coffee cup. Welcome back.

Back when people read newspapers, checking the obituary notices was how you kept up on what your old friends had been up to lately.

That is some most excellent weathering, Bro! The rust is magnificent!

I have 8 GS kits and I've never seen one chassis without the slots either. All of the AM versions, including the Revell rebox, were produced from the same tool.

Depending on what she looks like, the destination could be worth the journey.

It's winking at you, Tom.

Are you planning to soak the parts in a tub of Castrol Super Clean? In short, DON'T! Resin is porous and will absorb the cleaner. The chemicals will cause the resin to become soft and rubbery. There is no way to reverse this and you'll end up with an expensive mess. Get Testors ELO. All you need to do is brush it on the paint and wait until the paint wrinkles. Then, wash off the lifted paint, using a toothbrush and dishwashing liquid.

Like I said, it's not if, but when, baking soda breaks down and ruins that model you spent so much time and attention building to perfection. This thread by Pat Minarick should knock some common sense into yer noggins. Foodstuffs are the worst things one can use as modeling tools. Don't place yourself in the position to have this happen to you. Use products which are specifically compatible. That means accelerator for CA and microballoons for filler and embossing powder or flocking for carpeting interiors.

What's the product name? That would make it much easier searching for it with Google. A general search comes up with dozens of products, not necessarily the one you used.

The price should be cut by seven hundred bucks. The custom side pipes are missing.

Yes to both. I like them. The simplest way to find out what acrylic clear gloss and flats are available is to use Google.

Nice work. You might consider getting medium and fine grit diamond burr sets. You won't get the rough edges that occur when using regular grinding bits or drum sanders and you'll have better control on how much material is removed.

Call Arm & Hammer and they'll tell you it's a bad idea. The sodium bicarbonate will break down as a result of chemical interaction of the lacquers and/or enamels that it was in contact and/or combined with. The baking soda breaks down and becomes a gunky, oily, resinous yellow-brown ooze as a byproduct. It's not a matter of if, but when, the baking soda breaks down. It won't happen immediately; but, when you notice the goop seeping from under the paint, you'll regret using it. Armor modelers have been wise to this for years and avoid it like the plague.

Good! Better than stuffing them in your nostrils for entertainment purposes.

Actually. it has to do with hygiene. They don't want any possible nasty stuff left dirty toys by previous kids to spread. That's what the manager of the store in Brooklyn told me when I wanted to donate my son's baby toys. They have no problem reselling used shoes and funky, armpit smelling clothes, though.