SfanGoch

It's more of a problem than an issue.

Get Badger Stynylrez primers. Excellent coverage, dries rock hard and doesn't obliterate fine details. Comes in 18 colors to suit every situation. The flat black dries to a dead flat finish and the gloss black dries to a more semigloss look. You can reduce them with acrylic thinners or 70% IPA to improve paint flow while airbrushing.

From what I get from this, and other related threads, there seems to be some kind of apprehension/fear of investing in a reasonably priced airbrush and compressor. You'll obtain far better results with much less paint waste compared to using rattlecans. Not to mention, there are more airbrushable auto and specialty colors available than if you only depend on Tamiya and the like. For the cost of a dozen or so Tamiya rattlecans, you can get a decent airbrush and compressor.

By any chance, would that be the 1956 2 1/2 cent Louie Dumbrowski Sweet Shop Commemorative printed on candy wrapper paper?

The seller contacted me about ten minutes ago to inform me that he's dropped the price to $39.99 USD.

To counter rivet-counting judges attempting to pick every nit possible using magnifying glasses, aka "The One-Eyed Cyclops", to ruin your day. Much more civil, but less satisfying, than resorting to a Three Stooges eye poke.

Actually, it is a question of subject matter. R2 knows what its core customer base wants and is catering to it. I didn't ignore anything. This thread is about AMT. Neither the Revell nor the Moebius kits are relevant to the discussion. They will do what they will do and so will AMT/R2.

From ebay and numerous online hobby shops. For the hinge tools, just google the individual manufacturer names and part numbers and you'll see which retailers have them. For PE hinges, peruse these choices. Please check past the first page for more choices. Most people don't.

Where did you see them? I've never heard of 3D printed hinge bending tools. They wouldn't be strong enough to withstand the repeated stress. Get this, this or this if you need to make hinges.

Only if your tastes lie within those particular automotive categories. Since the bodies can be laser scanned to create new toolings, there's nothing to preclude utilizing chassis and suspension, engines and modified interiors from more modern kits which are compatible, such as cloning a '66 Buick Skylark GS and using the appropriate mold inserts from the '66, '67 Olds 442 kits or the '66/67 Chevelles, all of which use the identical GM A-body platforms. If I can do that by scavenging parts for my original, unmolested Skylark GS, it'd be a piece of cake for R2. It would increase the number of other '64-'67 GM A-body models which could be cloned and updated. New updated AMX/Javelin kits wouldn't be bad. Stateside, they'd sell better than Benz Patent-Motorwagens or a Citroen DS.

If you can get that deal, you can use the sixty bucks you'll save and get two ham & cheese sammiches at Zabars.

In the United Kingdom, O gauge equipment is produced at a scale of 1:43.5, which is 7 mm to the foot (using the common British practice of modelling in metric prototypes originally produced using Imperial measurements). It is often called "7 mm scale" for this reason. Hornby released its first train, a clockwork "0" gauge (1.48 scale in 1920. Ives Manufacturing Company, American Flyer and Lionel introduced "O" Scale (1/48) trains in 1901.

I use the following method on small PE parts from 1/35 to 1/144 with no problems. Place the largest part of the wiper blade under a finger with the bend line parallel to its outer edge. Tighten the bender screws so that the wiper blade doesn't move. Using an Exacto chisel blade, slide the blade tip under the wiper blade and slowly bend upwards until you have achieved the correct angle. To bend the other side, place the part anywhere along the outer edge of the bender, with the bend line facing up and fold up from underneath, using the chisel blade or a steel rule. to achieve the required angle. There is more than enough clearance to do this.

If the model in question was built using tube glue or something similar, no amount of freezing or soaking will cause the parts to loosen and separate. The aforementioned glues/cements weld the styrene. Using a PE saw is the only way to separate them.

According to "The Directory of Model Car Kits" by Bill Coulter & Bob Shelton, this is AMT No. 300 and was issued in 1955.

Used, ratty sneakers are the perfect Śmigus-dyngus Day (look that up) gifts. Place your order now to avoid disappointment.

Paul K. Lindberg, noted model aircraft designer, established the namesake company in 1933. Paul Lindberg got his start in 1930s model aviation by designing, building and flying stick and tissue aircraft. His plans appeared in Popular Aviation magazine and other publications. He began producing injection-molded kits immediately after World War II. 1/64th is the traditional slot car scale. It is also the scale of diecast cars from Johnny Lightning, Hot Wheels, etc. It is equivalent to model railroading's S Scale/S Gauge.

I contacted the seller and asked if the price was in dollars or Yen. It didn't take long for a reply. Google Translate: Go kanshin o o yose itadaki arigatōgozaimasu. Hai, dekāru no kakaku wa tadashīdesu. Nihon'ende wa naku, amerikadoru/ yūro. Thank you for your interest. Yes, the price of decals is correct. USD/EUR, not Japan JPY.

It's dollars, not yen.

Not unusual for Japanese sellers to post absurdly high prices for most mundane, fairly common and readily available items. Check out used, beat-up sneakers.

That, and the ever popular disclaimer, "Looks complete but not sure, check photos" remark with an instruction sheet in full view in the first pic. How about using the instructions to inventory the parts before listing your junk? There was one seller who sold Johan kits for around $80-$100 a pop containing nothing but completely stripped and bare parts trees. His disclaimer was that the kit was missing body & tub, engine, chassis, etc. Caveat Sucker.

The seller of the Vacuform upgrade set was Lotek, aka "www.gaugepods.com". Lotek is no longer on ebay and the website no longer lists the upgrade set nor the plastic sheets. I got the set about five years ago.

As soon as I graduated 8th grade in '74, I took part of my graduation loot and went to Jack's Hobby Shop and bought the complete eight kit set for around 48 bucks. I asked Mrs. Jack to put them on the side so nobody would grab them. I never had to build any of them. My mother gave ALL of my modeling stuff to the little kid from down the block after I left for the Army in '79.

It can't be that odd. MPC and Tamiya (F1 cars) produced a good number of 1/20 kits as well.

AMT/SMP also packaged their kits in generic boxes. Only the box end stickers give away the contents. This is the art for the SMP 1960 Impala Hardtop box; although you wouldn't know it by just looking at it. Like the previous images, the only way to find out what kit it is inside is to look at the label on the box ends. Wendy's must have copped the concept for this commercial: