SfanGoch

There are no local hobby shops in NYC; so, keeping one in business isn't even an afterthought.

Scale Hobbyist and Hobbylinc have the best prices for various general purpose hobby paints. MCW, Scale Finishes and Splash are pretty much the places for automotive colors. You might want to check out Tru-Color Paint, too. Excellent product and a nice selection of automotive colors. You can use "Find a Retailer" to check availability and best prices.

Lighten up, Francis. This is a hobby, not real world life or death decisions. Humor staves off tedium. No members were injured during the posting of the comment. The OP took it in good stride. If it didn't bother him, it definitely shouldn't bother you.

...........waiting for the question, "Should I use Elmer's Glue Paste as a window adhesive or a dessert topping?"

No problem... I know where you live. My Pa can drive me and Johnny Paul there from Mayberry. Opie

I'd say so.

Fuhgeddabout ebay. USA Airbrush Supply has the 2oz bottles for $6.11. I purchased SNR-472 - Stynylrez Primer 18 Tone Pack 4oz. / 120ml a few years ago when it was on sale for about $140.

Thanks, Dave. Stynylrez is an excellent primer when using Scale Finish, MCW and other automotive quality lacquers. Absolutely bulletproof. It goes on and dries so smoothly that no sanding is required.

Revell '62 Lancer GT and AMT/SMP '62 Tempest primed with Stynylrez Grey thinned with 70% IPA. Unlike Mr. Hobby or Tamiya primers, Stynylrez won't come off if you wipe the parts with an alcohol-moistened tissue.

It's more of a problem than an issue.

Get Badger Stynylrez primers. Excellent coverage, dries rock hard and doesn't obliterate fine details. Comes in 18 colors to suit every situation. The flat black dries to a dead flat finish and the gloss black dries to a more semigloss look. You can reduce them with acrylic thinners or 70% IPA to improve paint flow while airbrushing.

From what I get from this, and other related threads, there seems to be some kind of apprehension/fear of investing in a reasonably priced airbrush and compressor. You'll obtain far better results with much less paint waste compared to using rattlecans. Not to mention, there are more airbrushable auto and specialty colors available than if you only depend on Tamiya and the like. For the cost of a dozen or so Tamiya rattlecans, you can get a decent airbrush and compressor.

By any chance, would that be the 1956 2 1/2 cent Louie Dumbrowski Sweet Shop Commemorative printed on candy wrapper paper?

The seller contacted me about ten minutes ago to inform me that he's dropped the price to $39.99 USD.

To counter rivet-counting judges attempting to pick every nit possible using magnifying glasses, aka "The One-Eyed Cyclops", to ruin your day. Much more civil, but less satisfying, than resorting to a Three Stooges eye poke.

Actually, it is a question of subject matter. R2 knows what its core customer base wants and is catering to it. I didn't ignore anything. This thread is about AMT. Neither the Revell nor the Moebius kits are relevant to the discussion. They will do what they will do and so will AMT/R2.

From ebay and numerous online hobby shops. For the hinge tools, just google the individual manufacturer names and part numbers and you'll see which retailers have them. For PE hinges, peruse these choices. Please check past the first page for more choices. Most people don't.

Where did you see them? I've never heard of 3D printed hinge bending tools. They wouldn't be strong enough to withstand the repeated stress. Get this, this or this if you need to make hinges.

Only if your tastes lie within those particular automotive categories. Since the bodies can be laser scanned to create new toolings, there's nothing to preclude utilizing chassis and suspension, engines and modified interiors from more modern kits which are compatible, such as cloning a '66 Buick Skylark GS and using the appropriate mold inserts from the '66, '67 Olds 442 kits or the '66/67 Chevelles, all of which use the identical GM A-body platforms. If I can do that by scavenging parts for my original, unmolested Skylark GS, it'd be a piece of cake for R2. It would increase the number of other '64-'67 GM A-body models which could be cloned and updated. New updated AMX/Javelin kits wouldn't be bad. Stateside, they'd sell better than Benz Patent-Motorwagens or a Citroen DS.

If you can get that deal, you can use the sixty bucks you'll save and get two ham & cheese sammiches at Zabars.

In the United Kingdom, O gauge equipment is produced at a scale of 1:43.5, which is 7 mm to the foot (using the common British practice of modelling in metric prototypes originally produced using Imperial measurements). It is often called "7 mm scale" for this reason. Hornby released its first train, a clockwork "0" gauge (1.48 scale in 1920. Ives Manufacturing Company, American Flyer and Lionel introduced "O" Scale (1/48) trains in 1901.

I use the following method on small PE parts from 1/35 to 1/144 with no problems. Place the largest part of the wiper blade under a finger with the bend line parallel to its outer edge. Tighten the bender screws so that the wiper blade doesn't move. Using an Exacto chisel blade, slide the blade tip under the wiper blade and slowly bend upwards until you have achieved the correct angle. To bend the other side, place the part anywhere along the outer edge of the bender, with the bend line facing up and fold up from underneath, using the chisel blade or a steel rule. to achieve the required angle. There is more than enough clearance to do this.

If the model in question was built using tube glue or something similar, no amount of freezing or soaking will cause the parts to loosen and separate. The aforementioned glues/cements weld the styrene. Using a PE saw is the only way to separate them.

According to "The Directory of Model Car Kits" by Bill Coulter & Bob Shelton, this is AMT No. 300 and was issued in 1955.

Used, ratty sneakers are the perfect Śmigus-dyngus Day (look that up) gifts. Place your order now to avoid disappointment.