
BDSchindler
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Everything posted by BDSchindler
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Beautiful job!
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Gallery pics - how I shoot mine
BDSchindler replied to harti20's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Your studio setup is very similar to one I used in my basement when I wrote for the ill-fated The Car Room Magazine some 15 years ago. The biggest difference was that I used continuous lighting as opposed to flash photography. I just never got the knack for Flash Photography (nor, as an amateur, did I want the expense!) The subject matter was 1/24th Diecast from primarily Danbury Mint and Franklyn Mint but the process was the same. I used an Olympus E500 digital with a macro lense on a tripod and battery operated remote shutter to prevent camera shake. I also would take numerous shots set at f22 focusing on various aspects of what was in front of the camera. This 53 Buick Estate Wagon is made up of 12 different photo each focusing on various points and then stitching them altogether in Adobe Photoshop One of the benefits of using a macro lens is in extreme closeup shots. This shot demonstrates the intense detail in a 1/24th scale head lamp lense of the 1958 Pontiac Bonneville...mind you, this lense is less than .25" in diameter... and then there is the associated rear taillight... The Macro also allows for some implied drama... The engine of Danbury's Little Deuce Coupe was also taken using several shots stitched together I also played with various backgrounds like metallics and using a good translucent photography table allowed for lighting from below for a dramatic effect also I think I actually had more fun taking pictures than I did the writing aspect. -
Excellent! You're giving me ideas on what to do with a different kit.
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Well, it still doesn’t have an engine, exhaust or steering wheel yet but enough for a mock-up. The lighting sucks...really dark but these are 2 quick pics. Still need to do a lot like detailing the wheels and all under hood work but it’ll give you an idea of what I’m shooting for. When I started this 9 years ago, I don’t remember the rear wheels/tires being so far inboard of the wheel wells. I may have to see about moving them out a bit more.
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Thanks for the comments guys...I always appreciate feedback, good or bad. Getting back to this build made me realize how much I have grown in my abilities. Now if I can just find all the parts I planned on using but I cannot remember where I put all of them! AAAARRRGGGHHH!!!!!! I thought I had them all together but apparently not. More work on this to come this week. I did find the wood rimmed steering wheel (yes, real wood!) but there is a lot of poo-poo I gotta figure out before I get to that point...like the friggin' engine that is going in this!!!! More to come! Stay tuned,
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About 9 years ago, I was thumbing through a Street/Sport Truck magazine and fell in love with a truck customized by a Canadian custom shop. The truck was a 52 Chevy 3100 that they nicknamed “Vicarious”. So I picked up a 3100 kit and went to work. The body is complete as shown below… The bed is from a 99 Silverado that I removed the center 1/2” and “welded the 2 halves together then used the 3100’s rear fenders. Bumpers were removed and the nose was reworked. A bit of airbrushing to the grill after a lot of taping off… I scratch built the frame, the suspension came from a 96 corvette, I think (can’t remember…9 years ago!). Wheels and tires came from the rear of 2 1/32 scale "Muscle Machines Big Time Muscle" mustangs And that’s where it stalled…until last week. I kept thinking to myself that I need to finish this. I had nearly a year invested in this build so off the shelf and on the workbench once again! I finished the dash… and the interior complete with a heavily modified console from an unknown donor kit. Seats are from from the 99 Silverado. Tan embossing powder over flat black paint makes up the carpeting. I used duplicolor tan interior paint for the seats, console and interior door panels…pardon the sanding dust, To be removed! The floor of the bed I never liked so I decided that rather than tear it apart, I’d just cover it with a scratch built tonneau cover that fits tightly but can be removed The original engine I planned to use I’m on the fence about now. I picked an LS1 from TX3DCustoms but not sure which direction to go. And that’s all for now. I’ll post more as I get done but I am determined to finish this more than ever now
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I have this very same kit but I haven’t started it yet. There’s a few issues with it…like the chromed side gill vents. The kit provided ones look cheap. I’ll prolly use styrene and fab my own. I also picked up TX3DCustom’s 427 for it with the webers. I modified the intake so the webers sit straight up as opposed to being canted inward at an angle. it’s in the queue to be built but I have other projects on the bench first.
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I haven't tried Greg's method but...I like it! I may have to use it. That said, I have used the Sharp Blade method, hand sanding and a Dremel ... My GTX was mostly done with a Dremel and some hand sanding... On the NovaCam, it was mostly hand sanding and a sharp blade...The result was a paper thin grill where part of it broke, however.
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What is the best glue for glass/clear surfaces?
BDSchindler replied to AlbertS's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
GS Hypo Cement is VERY good! What I like about it is the pinpoint applicator on the tube and the cap has a needle to keep the tube from clogging up. Strong stuff too. Once dry, parts won't pop off if you flex the plastic to it's limit. Does not fog up either and can be painted over or use a marker like a Sharpie Industrial Black marker. I have also used Elmer's white and clear glue, Modge-Podge, evergreen and so forth. I swear that Evergreen is just Elmer's White glue but that is just my opinion. Essentially, I've found any Non-solvent or Non CA glues that dry clear work well for clear plastic. -
oh...nippERS. Boy did my brain read that wrong! ?
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Model Cars Magazine Pens
BDSchindler replied to sfhess's topic in Model Cars Magazine News and Discussions
DITTO! I want some too. How about a free pen to all subscribers? -
Canadian 1961 Pontiac Laurentian conversion
BDSchindler replied to TheBEAUMONTGURU's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Very cool! -
Simply amazing!
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well, it's done. I'm not happy with it as "the juice just wasn't worth the squeeze". But...it's done and at least that much I am happy with! This was such a frustrating build that it will be a while until I return to the bench...if at all. ☹️
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So, new kit in hand but it’s the Revell American kit vs the German kit. My theory proved correct that the Revell American hood would fit and does amazingly with no mods to it! The hood from the Germany kit required copious amounts of sanding to fit. Painted black last week and went to put the hood stripe decal on it today but the friggin’ decal fragmented on me worse then the Germany (Italy printed decals) did… Frustrated as this kit has fought me EVERY step of the way that I said screw it! I masked off the hood, grabbed my Badger Patriot and Cortez Silver Splash Paint and sprayed the hood stripe… I was going to attempt the red pinstripes on the hood but I said no. They are much too thin and I just NEED to be done with this. So I’ll add the “L-82” graphics, clear it tomorrow and do the final assembly once the clear cures. It’s been a long few months with this…I wanna be done! Stay tuned, the finish line is in sight!
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Thanks George! I know the fire LED that Evan's sells and to be honest, you could easily set the LED into the dumpster amongst the garbage and use a cotton batting to simulate smoke from the ensuing fire. The flickering of the LED will simulate the flames and will cast shadows from the garbage. Honestly, I don't think you'd need the clear printed flames at all. Evans Designs Flickering Fire LED Kit.
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well...I am STILL using Firefox and I was able to page through this entire topic without having to Right Click on each page number and select open in new tab. That is the first time in about 2 years! Nice work Dave...my patience level is restored (or is it just because it's a full moon tonight?)
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I use Splash Paints over Mr. Surfacer Primer for the most part. I have always applied decals first then Splash 2K Clear about a week later. Never had an issue...so far. I have also used Splash 2K Clear over buffed Bare Metal Foil and the BMF came out looking like chrome. The chrome trim on this Bronco was Splash 2K Clear over buffed BMF.
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Using Firefox, I still have to right click and select "Open link in New Tab" to see additional pages of a topic. Lately, I am getting a message that the current page is slowing down Firefox with an option to stop it from loading. Essentially, I see no changes with Firefox but greatly appreciate the effort.
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I know that feeling!
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Loving it! I'll be watching!
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I hate this kit...now more than ever but with easily 100 hours in it, I really don't want to bail on it completely. Unfortunately, I don't have another hood nor the decals for the hood stripe. Talked to my brother and he ordered another kit. Large price to pay for whatever happened but, poop happens. he'll have it by thanksgiving and bring it with him. It just sucks and I wish I knew what happened!
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So this officially peed in my wheaties!!! after I painted the hood…and it was fine. It was primed and painted with Splash Paints. it was perfect! 2 weeks later I put the decals (yes, they fragmented too but I was able to align it) for the hood stripe on and I don’t know if it was the heat of my hands or the micro sol but the left side warped on me. Car is toast now… any thoughts other than a new kit for the hood and decals?
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AMT 2021 Bronco….
BDSchindler replied to cruz's topic in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
All I can say is DDDAAAAAYYYYY-MMMMNNNN CRUZ! Can't wait to see this one in person at MAMA's!