BDSchindler

If I had built it stock, the front and rear valance would have been installed after the interior and chassis were installed. Since I integrated the valances into the body, I had to get creative with the chassis. I removed a but of the length from the front and rear as well as shaving the Wheel Wells down for easier installation of the chassis. It required flexing the side panels a fair amount. Since the body was going to be finished when installing the chassis, I was afraid of seams cracking where the front and rear bumpers were integrated. This is the reason I used plastic strips at the seams and melted the seams together using liquid glue thereby bonding the plastic for a stronger hold. Kind of like welding but using plastic instead of metal. Lots of sanding and reapplying melted plastic as needed. It also made it so less body filler was needed.

Everyone...thanks for the comments

No I don't but I'll try and get one up

After a year and a half of on again/off again working on this...the 71 GTX is done! I opened the grill on this (4 hours worth of work! Remaining grill is paper thin!), dechromed and narrowed the bumpers then worked them into the body panels using melted plastic and very little filler. Removed the rear seats and tubbed the car. The seats and steering wheel from a Viper RT 10, shifter is from Shapeways. Engine, radiator and shroud are from the Viper. I BMF's the valve covers, painted them red then removed the paint showing the detail in the valve covers. The exhaust was separated from the rear end and I used plastic tube with beading wire stuffed in the entire length. This made the plastic tube bendable without kinking. I used larger tube for the tips and angled the opening. I also made the reveals in the rear valance for the exhaust to poke through. Front suspension was lowered about 2mm...Gives it a meaner look, I think (my opinion). Paint fought me all the way...my own fault. I got dust in the clear coat and wet sanded it then buffed it. I ended up buffing through the paint in 2 spots. Taped it off and fixed those areas but when I removed the tape, the adhesive melted the clear coat just enough to give it a rough vinyl top look. So I wet sanded that buffed it out again. When I was going to glue the radiator in (using Tenax glue as it fuses the plastic better) and of course, a drop of it landed on the nose. Touched it up and it will need some finishing once the paint cures but for now, from 4' away, you can't see it. Wheel and Tires from Steve Zimmerman Here's some pics...ANY feedback is appreciated! The hood DOES sit tight to the body, I forgot to tap it into place before I took the picture. *** Note...Driveshaft was installed since this pic. Originally I forgot about it!

So while waiting for the clear coat to cure on a GTX that I have been slooooowly working on for what seems forever, I figured I'd start my next pair of projects. Part 2 will be a box stock AMT Camaro (inspired by a recent build from Joe Shaw aka "Mustang1989" here===> https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/174678-amt-2017-camaro-fiftieth-anniversary-edition/). Part 1 is the C-1 Camaro "Shooting Brake" Wagon. Initial thoughts were that it would be a fairly easy build using the AMT 2016 or newer Camaro donor. Now this is my first resin trans kit and I have been warned that resin kits are more brittle that plastic so I am proceeding cautiously! First real inspection I discovered some pinholes to which I drilled out and filled from behind. I also saw a lot of resin in all panel lines and while lightly trying to dig them out, I noticed the rear of the drivers door is very thin. I barely touched it and it opened up...again filled from behind and will get back to that later. At this point, I figured I should test fit every part that comes in contact with the body...and I'm glad I did! The Shooting Brake needs the hood from the donor kit. When I test fitted the hood, I realized that a lot of massaging was needed. Like 3 hours worth! When it was done, I was happy with the outcome... There was a lot of resin in the recesses of the nose also and it was easier to massage the donor parts to fit correctly. So a quick mock up of the nose produced an acceptable result... The rear valance was a royal pain the rear, however! Again with the heavy amount of resin caused the rear valance to literally hang off the body. There is a YOUTUBE video out there that shows this around 11:43 into it (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvvbEtm4jwQ). I took a fair amount of time to remove the resin, as needed, and massaged the donor valance until it looked closer to what the Camaro actually is. Right and left rear valance pictures are below... You'll notice I have the interior and chassis installed. I did it for 2 reasons...it adds some rigidity while I holding and grinding away on the body but I also wanted to see if the interior went clear to the rear of the Shooting Brake's cargo bay. Well, it doesn't so now I'm torn with... Extending the rear deck to the back Cut out the rear deck and fabricate a cargo area Take the easy way out and black out the rear window and leave the interior the way it is. Blacking out the rear window will not show what you see in the picture below. Thoughts and feedback are appreciated!

That sounds like challenge to Steve! ?

Thanks for the feedback

How big is my 'stash? it just goes to the corners of my mouth but all gray now... oh...you meant "model stash"...about 150 or so...a few duplicates like the Revell Foose Ford Pick up as there are parts in that kit that are really well done for kit bashing. I have 10 of those that I picked up really cheap considering the more recent price hikes.

When I was writing and reviewing diecast for various magazines, some companies would gear the rear end so that when you turned the rear wheels, the driveshaft turned, as well. It was a nice touch, granted...but if you wanted to see the drive shaft turn, you had to pick the car up and turn it over. As everyone knows, the more you handle a car, the more likely something is bound to break. On top of which, oils on the hand (or other such chemicals say if you are a smoker) get on the paint which then requires a quick buff before you put it back. Again, more chance of something breaking (who hasn't lost trim, BMF or Photo-etched parts buffing a diecast and/or model?). Driveshafts that turn also added additional costs to the diecast. With some of the diecast in the $150+ price point, the added engineering just wasn't worth it, in my opinion. As for models...everything I have built since I got back into the hobby has been custom or hot rod and used wider tires. So, it necessitated removing the mounting points of pins/axles from the wheels to get them to fit believably in the wheel wells with Disc Brakes attached. So a little dot of JB Weld has been my friend to permanently mount in one position. I haven't flat spotted the tires yet (just never gave it THAT much thought) but I may give it a go on my next build.

Has anyone put the body from the AMT 2011 Camaro convertible (curbside “Showroom Replicas”) and put it on the 2017 full detail Camaro chassis? If it will work, my thoughts are to open the hood on the convertible for a full detail convertible to go with a regular 2017 camaro and a “shooting brake” Camaro wagon body I got from C1 models. It’ll be a “Camaro Trifecta” for me doing all 3 at the same time…different colors of course.

Thanks but I am looking for NON-Rallye gauges. Just a Plain-Jane Duster dash panel.

Thanks guys

I'm interested in doing a more stripped down version of the 340 Duster and looking for a bench seat and the standard dash (not the 340 dash with round gauges) and standard steering wheel. So does know of an interior conversion the likes of what I am looking for?

Ya know, this is a great idea. I have been trying to find a resolution to storing all of the sheet plastic and so forth and this will work perfectly!!! Thanks!

I'm dying here!!! ?

I cut away all of the chassis pans on a '56 Fairlane. The frame was molded hallow so I filled it in. I then added a lot of support and other cross members as well as kit bashing the front a rear suspensions. An application of body putty here and there and lots of sanding later

Well now...there is that! ?

Told ya so, George! Really nice!

When I was up in Philly in mid-October to see George (and have lunch at PC!!!!!), I got the change to see Wylde products and this is really nice stuff. To top it off, as most people know, George is a straight shooter (literally!) which is why George and I are good friends. If he says Wylde is a great person to deal with combined with great products, you can bank on it!

JB Weld 2-part has ALWAYS been good to me. my problem is that I have no patience to wait for stuff to set up and cure. George told me about JB's Superweld over the weekend and I went out to Home Depot and picked some up. When George recommends something so highly, i can always count on whatever to be "Da Bomb!" Guess what? JB Superweld is "DA BOMB!"

For the really adventurous, you could get a Fingernail Liner brush and try your hand at free-hand pin striping. Thinnest brush I have ever seen! I recently picked up a set but I have not tried it yet...

I picked this up at Hobby Lobby for 60% off. Essentially, it's 60' of black hollow rubber tube used to string beads for bracelets. It is the perfect size for replicating a Radiator hose... However, cut a section off and insert some form of flexible wire (like beading wire or very thin solder) and you can bend it into any form you need for a convincing radiator hose. With 60', you'll have enough for the rest of your modeling career!

I used that same engine in my Crown Vic... But I have to say, Texas 3d Customs is VERY good!

Got mine on Friday and read it cover to cover (Now I'm waiting for #217 ? ). I loved the article in the The Vintage Workbench on the Ala Kart. I remember doing the review for the mis-managed The Car Room Magazine when Danbury Mint did the Ala Kart in 1/24th scale diecast. For every review I ever wrote, for any magazine, I always did the research on each vehicle especially those like the Ala Kart that held historical significance. Even though I did the necessary research, the article for The Vintage Workbench brought out a couple of things about Ala Kart that I never knew. Great Issue! A suggestion for a future issue is an overview of Texas 3D Customs parts! They are excellent!

Until recently, my time in the Hobby Room has been sparse. For instance, I have a GTX project I started last year and work had been such a PIA that I was tired by the end of the day and weekends were spent split between the Honey-Do list and, spending time with the wife and/or family (Vacations, Family get-togethers and so forth), or a function at my Daughter's School (She's a Senior at Towson Unversity). I will carve away time for a 2-3 hour sprint or until I get frustrated that I stop before I try to embed something I am working on into the wall. Recently, however, I retired after 45 years in I.T. (yep, I am 65 now) and over the last 3 weeks, put a major dent in the Honey-do list (Honestly...I am busier now than I was in the last 30 years!!!!!! refinished 3 peices of furniture and built a cabinet my wife has been wanting me to do for a looooong time! I think it's more my wife trying to find things to keep me busy and out of her hair! She is still working from home for The Discovery Channel. Jokingly, I put in a request with her for a Vacation day to go into the Hobby Room for a day! She just rolled her eyes.) My plan is to spend a couple of hours a day or week going forward but I'll need to clear that with the boss first! ?