BDSchindler

The secret is not to use high speed..I have done it many times at a slow speed (500-700 rpm) on plastic models, diecast cars and more! Yes, you can burn through but if you are patient, the results are worth it.

You'll like this kit...highly detailed with a huge part count especially in the suspension!

It looks like they (Arrowmax) deal primarily with the Radio Control hobby world. For Modeling, however, I played with it to some extent and really quite happy with it. The drill press feature (although a manual plunger as opposed to a lever) works great from what I can see. It hasn't melted styrene that I have seen. I still think it will be an asset!

Arrowmax mini drill/drill press kit. LED Lights, reversible, rechargeable comes with the drill stand and a set of bits. 3/32” shanks which puts it smaller than average Dremel bits. It’ll be great for detail work Got this from Amazon during their Prime day for $90. It was an impulse buy but in the long run…WORTH IT! Pretty impressive! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3MP2ZWK?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_W5F469B4ENHTETM448G2

Art? Certainly is! I showed this to my son...he seriously thought it was a REAL car engine! You've got mad skills, Steven... and I thank you as you have unknowingly taught me sooooo much!

Ahhh, FLOCK-IT! No...seriously Just FLOCK-IT! (https://www.flockit.com/) That said, I haven't tried embossing powders...yet.

very nice!

Finished (finally!)…

So after a bit of work straightening out a warped body, the chassis/interior and body are now one. There is still work to do (headlights, taillights, rear wind deflector, rear valance, spoiler and more) but for today, getting the body mounted was a major feat! Side and rear windows were mounted. Rear window required to be taped down (below) and front grill work done. Suspension sits a little taller than I wanted but after the body issues encountered, I’ll take it! Engine bay settled into place… still more to do but hopefully, I’ll have this done tomorrow.

Interior and chassis are done… Today I applied Splash Paints 2K clear and I think it came out nice… definitely glossy! So I’ll let this cure a bit and do a little wet sanding (maybe) then mask it and hit the trim. lots more to go!

Thanks everyone!

What is the best method of replicating a vinyl top? I know everyone will have opinions on what is the best way to do it but what works best for you? Some people in my club have suggested using masking tape but that seems like the paper would fail and peel later down the road. I was blown away to see Steve Guthmiller's vinyl tops! So I want to see what others think and the steps with which to do it. Thanks

It appears that's another good reason to use resin/3D printed tires (of which I have become a recent huge fan of!)

While I agree that opening the the grill adds to the overall look, it really depends on the grill itself what method is used. If the recesses in the grill are shallow, you stand a better chance of destroying it while sanding it. The bottom row of this Nova grill was nearly obliterated. It was sanded from the backside obviously and an Exacto knife to help open it. it was my first one and trust me, due to the remaining thickness...it was a royal pain the a...well, you get my point. The GTX was a bit easier but it still took about 4 hours of a combination of hand and dremel sanding/grinding.

A small update…calling the interior DONE!!!

Did anyone else notice the "curbside" 2021 Ford Bronco had a separate hood from the body on the box art showing the parts included? (25:05 mark in the video) This opens up some possibilities!

Not much **new** to report but I got a bit more dismayed on this C1 Models Shooting Brake Camaro. Test fitted the windshield after removing just the front part from the donor glass and noted that it didn't fit. The pillar is warped so it took a bit of creative grinding to make it so. Mind you, it is now painted...my fault for not test fitting the windshield before paint. Also noted the interior wasn't fitting well and found more body issues... Then, (and I don't know why I didn't see this before) the entire drivers side is warped and at least 1/4 of an inch off! This is starting to resemble "slush casting resin" and while I know it wasn't, I just find this kind of c r a p (and I am talking about ALL of the inconsistencies found so far) unacceptable for the price of this conversion kit where it is basically a body and everything else (including the hood) has to come from a donor kit. And I know that I had a choice not to buy, but I seriously think it was just the conversion kit I was sent as others from the same mold did not have all of the issues I have had. Poor quality control in my opinion.

I do this also but once decanted, allow it to sit overnight so the frozen part from the decanting process dissipates.

I attended the Mid-Atlantic NNL that my club (Maryland Automotive Modeler's Association aka MAMA's) this weekend and saw a couple of lighted model vehicles. One of them was a Corvette Gran Sport that was well done. The owner had it outfitted with LED head/taillights and was well done. All that said...any opinions about lighting up our little gems of hard labor? I'm on the fence as to whether or not to attempt it.

I have agree with Jeff. While MCM has always been great, since the revamp of the magazine...it has become SO much better! Yes it would be nice to have it monthly but as one that has written for magazines in the past, it becomes a lot of pressure to hit deadlines with content that will keep readers coming back time and time again. Then there is the cost factor...a monthly publication effectively doubles the budget and that adds to the overall stress of getting the magazine done within the deadline. And trust me, if you miss a deadline by even a week, not only will readers be disappointed but you will NEVER get the next issue out on time and the classic snowball effect starts to happen. "Nuff said on that. As it stands right now, the content is great, the timing is on the mark, pictures are excellent and so on. The only thing I would like to see are more of the "How to" articles and new accessories/tools available. An old Writing professor from college once told me the best way to write a short story (and for those offended by politically incorrect analogies, stop reading now) is to envision a woman's hemline...the story (or article in this case) should be long enough to cover the subject but short enough to make it interesting. I'd say you guys hit the mark perfectly!

The donor kit I used is the 50th anniversary camaro...it came with a closed grill as well as the open one. so I used the open one as it saved tons of sanding work. I left a small lip in the opening so there was something to mount it to.

I did the same thing with the grill area. I just like having the open grill.

Interesting approach to the Cargo Area by removing the rear deck of the interior behind the seats and finishing it off. That's one I didn't think of. I assume you put a backing on the rear seats. I will probably steal this idea from you as I really like it! On the body just under the front in the engine bay are 2 tabs that need to be remove and sanded flat. If not, the tub for the engine bay will not fit correctly (see pic below area circled in yellow), It is on the right and left side...TEST FIT EVERYTHING before assembly! I found a lot of things that needed some sort of modification! Nice job!

Beauty of a job! I reviewed a diecast version (I forget who manufactured it) of the London Bus for one of the magazines I wrote for in the past and as good as that was, this is so much better despite the use of the LED's. Your lighting just makes it perfect! Nice job!

Thanks, I have some minor wet sanding to do on it before I clear it and since the hood needs repainting, I'll hold for now. I also have a couple of other bodies that need painting so I'll wait and clear them with Splash Paints 2K Gloss clear. Speaking of Splash Paints, hats off to Sam for straightening me out on what to order for the 2K Clear. I've never used 2K Clear before so this should be interesting.