BDSchindler

I seriously loved Scott Colmer's article regarding Monogram's Big and Little T's. With no offense to Scott, a little bit of background on how the Big T came to be. Years ago, I had a standing column in Toy Cars and Model Magazine that was called "A 1:24 Hour Hobby" that was centered around diecast cars and trucks...NOT models. I was also a collector of the Creative Masters Limited 1/20th scale diecast cars. The 7 models that were done for the series had detail that was unheard of in the diecast industry. It was also Monogram's first foray into highly detailed diecast. To make a long story short, I did a feature article on the Creative Masters (CM) Series and that led me to the telephone of Roger Harney, the same person that Scott Colmer mentioned in the "Honey, I shrunk the Big-T's" article. Roger not only provided me with info on the CM lineup gave me a ton of background on his career with Revell-Monogram. From that day forward until his untimely death in 2014...the same year that he had planned to retire...Roger and I became fast friends and would talk for hours when he wasn't in China. He was a master modeler that could build a model out of anything. According to his daughter, her parents house was filled with highly detailed models. I remember calling Roger once and he was in his office building a segment of a GATO Class sub that was to be over 5' long! Roger's first "real" job was building models as per the instructions contained in the kits when he was some 18 years old, if I remember correctly. His tenure at Monogram, and later with Revell-Monogram, would propel him through designing and later as the Excutive Vice President of RM Inc in charge of tooling and manufacturing. Somewhere into the late 90's, early 2000's, he and 12 other executives around the world became co-owners of Revell-Monogram Inc. Roger explained to me how the Big-T actually came to be...I think he said it was in 1960 or so, he was trying to sell the idea of 1/8th scale Hot Rod engines as a model kit in itself to the Monogram Marketing Team. With the model car market really starting to take off especially with the Custom and Hot Rod models, Roger had the idea that modelers would love to have a large scale detailed engine to display along with the smaller scale cars. Marketing didn't buy it, however, stating something to the fact that without the rest of the car, it just wouldn't sell. That was a Friday afternoon. Undeterred, Roger went home that night and by Monday morning, he had completed a full and accurate frame and driveline complete with suspension and articulating front end including wheels and tires. That same Monday morning, the Marketing Team didn't like the idea...they LOVED it and Roger was tasked with leading the design of the rest of the Big-T (Body and Interior)

That is badass!

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here's a couple of options from Micromark Strainer Funnels I have the Strainer Funnels and they work great, cleanable with anything including Acetone (my choice of airbrush cleaner...cleans anything from acrylic to lacquer including nail polish) Paasche in jar strainer

I did something similar. At last years Mid-Atlantic NNL, there was a vendor in the corner of the main room that was selling various tools and supplies. I bought 6 pin vices for $10 from him and have various sized drill bits in each that are the most used on my bench.

I owned a Plymouth Turismo (Plymouth version of a Charger) and as far as I remember, flat black would be correct. But that is for the Plymouth variant of the Charger. The Charger may have been different.

No offense but yes the mixture is indeed 3 parts clear to 1 part Catalyst...HOWEVER...there is no need to thin Splash 2K Clear. Once you mix it it is airbrush ready. Definitely wear a good respirator (not just a mask) as the catalyst WILL harm you. This Bronco was painted with Splash paints...primer, paint and gloss 2K Clear over decals and BMF

i think get what George is saying, Charles. Kinda like the Ford FE Cobra 427 engine I recently bought from you in 1/16 where you offered the transmission as either a C6 or Toploader. https://tx3dcustoms.com/products/ford-fe-cobra-427

So I have had a couple of emails asking what paint and clear coat I used on this. The paint is Tamiya Acrylic Gloss orange thinned down and airbrushed. It is NOT clear coated, however. I buffed it with McGuire's #7 wax and a buffing pad on my dremel (link to that process is below) "The Schindler Method" (as named by George Bojacuik) What is important to note is to use a variable speed dremel or similar and dial it down as slow as you can get using light pressure. If not, you WILL burn through the paint...ask me how I know!

Thanks guys. The longer it sat unfinished, the more it continued to gnaw at me to get it done.

So I started this project 9 years ago after seeing an article for “Vicarious”, a 52 Chevy 3100 in a Street/Sport Truck magazine I spied on a grocery store shelf. The original artist rendering from HPI Customs out of Canada (no longer in business) is below… Below are pics of the real "Vicarious" Custom Chevy Pick Up... So off I went on this venture and for the next 1 1/2 years worked on it getting frustrated at times and finally shelved it after a repaint. I sealed everything up until about a month ago and finally got back to work on it. The pictures below are the finished product based on the original inspiration of “Vicarious” The engine is a straight stock LS1 from Texas3DCustoms. The bed is from a ‘96 Chevy P/U that was narrowed by .5” with a scratch built floor. I wasn’t happy with it so I made a cover for it. I also didn’t like the frame/floor pans so I scratch built the frame and used a corvette suspension front and rear. It’s nice to finally get this one completed. I’ve been kicking myself for not finishing it all the way. I had higher hopes of detailing this just a bit more but I just needed to get it done!!! Enjoy the pics

DONE! Under Glass!

Almost done now… Exhaust done (not too happy with it), drive shaft fabbed and installed, engine installed and plumbed as is the radiator but I still need to install the brake master cylinder and gas tank.

When I did my GTX, I also opened the grill. It was a long process but well worth it in the long run. I dechromed the front bumper and blended it into the body

I do the exact same thing. Allows for bends from slight to radical without kinking the plastic. Works great for shaping plastic tube for exhaust systems.

Thanks…still have more to go before it’s complete but it is getting there!

Thanks!

Well, rear wheels moved out to the wheel wells and interior completed and installed (with a REAL wood steering wheel). Engine is done but not installed yet and the inner fender wells, firewall, driveshaft and exhaust still need to be fabricated and/or installed.

Small update…TX3DCustoms LS1 painted and assembled. Still need to do the belt and heater/radiator hoses and install it

Beautiful job!

Your studio setup is very similar to one I used in my basement when I wrote for the ill-fated The Car Room Magazine some 15 years ago. The biggest difference was that I used continuous lighting as opposed to flash photography. I just never got the knack for Flash Photography (nor, as an amateur, did I want the expense!) The subject matter was 1/24th Diecast from primarily Danbury Mint and Franklyn Mint but the process was the same. I used an Olympus E500 digital with a macro lense on a tripod and battery operated remote shutter to prevent camera shake. I also would take numerous shots set at f22 focusing on various aspects of what was in front of the camera. This 53 Buick Estate Wagon is made up of 12 different photo each focusing on various points and then stitching them altogether in Adobe Photoshop One of the benefits of using a macro lens is in extreme closeup shots. This shot demonstrates the intense detail in a 1/24th scale head lamp lense of the 1958 Pontiac Bonneville...mind you, this lense is less than .25" in diameter... and then there is the associated rear taillight... The Macro also allows for some implied drama... The engine of Danbury's Little Deuce Coupe was also taken using several shots stitched together I also played with various backgrounds like metallics and using a good translucent photography table allowed for lighting from below for a dramatic effect also I think I actually had more fun taking pictures than I did the writing aspect.

Excellent! You're giving me ideas on what to do with a different kit.

That was what I was thinking, more or less

Well, it still doesn’t have an engine, exhaust or steering wheel yet but enough for a mock-up. The lighting sucks...really dark but these are 2 quick pics. Still need to do a lot like detailing the wheels and all under hood work but it’ll give you an idea of what I’m shooting for. When I started this 9 years ago, I don’t remember the rear wheels/tires being so far inboard of the wheel wells. I may have to see about moving them out a bit more.

Thanks for the comments guys...I always appreciate feedback, good or bad. Getting back to this build made me realize how much I have grown in my abilities. Now if I can just find all the parts I planned on using but I cannot remember where I put all of them! AAAARRRGGGHHH!!!!!! I thought I had them all together but apparently not. More work on this to come this week. I did find the wood rimmed steering wheel (yes, real wood!) but there is a lot of poo-poo I gotta figure out before I get to that point...like the friggin' engine that is going in this!!!! More to come! Stay tuned,