Can-Con

No different then using a set of AMT parts pack tires or a set of Aoshima or Fujimi wheels on a kit made by someone else.

I've also used Alclad in the past with great results but this doesn't need a basecoat or to be airbrushed. I'm assuming this is referencing the durability questions.

It was intended for use with any van kits, not just the Revell kits which were already customs. I had the set they made for pickups back then and it featured a mid '70s Dodge pickup in the instruction illustrations, which Revell never made, only MPC.

Steve, the wheel I sprayed were molded in grey and were never plated originally. They were from an MPC dodge van with the big hotrod decals on the sides.

I'll be trying that later in the week sometime.

No, it's the newer '66 kit chassis that's correct. I had to take the fuel pump out of the tank on my '69 a couple times to clean it. The tank is definitely on the passenger side and the tire well is on the driver's side.

I used to own a '69 and can say with %100 confidence that the '66 chassis is correct. Use whatever you can from under the hood too except the engine. Buick dropped the nailhead and switched to the 430 in '67.

I doubt it would make a difference Al. This stuff it pretty opaque and goes on pretty thick and evaporates down unlike Alclad and a few others that need a basecoat and go on in mist coats. But I think I'll dig out something molded in black and shoot it later to see if there's a difference.

It's not been reissued. It was butchered into the race car in the late '60s or early '70s and that's what it has been ever since unfortunately. Only way to get a stock one is the original annual kit from whichever year you choose.

I just tried mine Joe. It's only been sprayed about 6 hours ago and I couldn't rub it off. Probably be even more durable after it's completely dry.

Got some this morning and tested it out on a couple parts I had laying around. No real prep, just made sure they were clean and dust free as possible and sprayed right from the can. This has only been drying for about 6 hours and is already pretty durable. I think it will be as safe to handle as any other model paint after it's dried longer. Here's an old resin bumper I cast years ago. ,, and sitting on a chrome tree for comparison. A Jo-Han 442 front bumper that had poor chrome. Just pulled it off the car, cleaned it up a bit with a toothbrush and a bit of water to get the dust off and sprayed strait from the can, as the rest of the stuff in these pics,, , , , and here's the kicker,, an old MPC Cragar sprayed on the right compared to a brand new wheel on the left,, So, while not 100% as shiny as kit plating, it's almost there. Some probably will prefer this over kit plating. Certainly better then most chrome sprays and super easy, just spray it on.I will be using this in the future for probably anything I need chromed.

Like I said before, Getting your information from Scalemates is like getting your daily news from the National Inquirer. It MAY be correct but then again, maybe not. But it's fun to look at all the pretty pictures. ?

Got this at my local hobby shop today. Sprayed some stuff and will post in the appropriate section later.

It can. I know from experience. I'd just set sand it smooth with fine grit paper, down to at least 3200 grit and repaint. Resin can handle hot paints no problem. BUT, if you really need to strip it, I've seen people strip Duplicolor paint off resin with lacquer thinner and cotton balls. Just wipe the paint off with damp cotton balls. I have tried it myself and it works but I didn't need to do a whole body.

I don't think Keith does custom work aside from printing his already created decals in custom colors but it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Been tinkering with this thing for about 7 years now. The guy I bought it from said it had been sitting for about 15 years. I did run [barely] when I got it but it runs great now. Mostly stock. Replaced 3/4 of the floors, brakes, tires, various engine parts, etc. Have an interior kit, headliner, etc. to go in it eventually.

I'd strip it and start over since you already have stripped some of it. As for the decals, I've heard some have had luck tapeing yellowed decals in a south facing window and letting sunlight fade the yellow back out, but I have never tried it myself. I'd bet some time under a UV light would do the same thing though.

One thing to keep in mind about that. The '65-'67 GM A-bodies had a 3 inch longer wheelbase then the '68-'72s. Might not matter for a pro-streeter though.

I used an AMT '72 Chevelle chassis under my '69. I did modify the molded in front suspension for poseable steering though.

Yes, it takes at least over night and I don't handle them for a couple days myself just to make sure.

I used this stuff, Peter.

True Bill 5" and 7". , , BUT, you have 1/24 and 1/25 scales not to mention there's a LOT of variation in that "5" and 7"" between kits. I made these by pressing kitchen foil down over a headlight tightly. Usually I use a soft pencil eraser to get the details sharp and then put a couple drops of clear casting resin in them. Just enough to form a convex surface. Just trim and the foil creates the reflector and has the prism detail in it. If you want a clear lens I just use non-stick foil and the resin pops right off. The one in the chrome bezel below was made that way. This pic was taken 7 years ago. I'm still using these and they haven't turned yellow yet. This is what they look like installed.

Kevin, is there a better place to see what you're offering then the e-bay store? The picking seems pretty thin on there.

I did this over 15 years ago. Still my best wood grain job. I think I'll repost it in the regular section later on.