Can-Con

Ya know,, what I'd try with that window insert is remove material from the inside the opening. Give it more glass area. Maybe 1/2 the original thickness. It's a custom part and no one says you have to use it exactly as it came in the kit. ?

Pretty sure it the same one. [Or a clone of it, I guess]

No one, that's just Rob wishing real hard. ?

Yea, too bad the sleeves haven't been available for years except a few leftover colored 23"s. I'd love to have about a 1/2 dozen 19" sets ?

That's gonna make one cool Phantom Caprice coupe. Just needs some photoetch "Caprice" scripts.

I use them. Looks great but definitely hard to fold. Here's a trick that might work for you though, Put the part to be folded on a small piece of wood like a popsicle stick. Use an old blade in your X-acto knife. Place the blade sharp edge down on the fold line and tap it with a small hammer or something else relatively heavy. This should give you a nice strait bend to start the fold. I don't have a bender myself so after this I fold the part down on my table with the knife and finish the bend [usually 90degrees] with another old blade.

Tim, from your post, I figured there was about a %90 chance that this was being announced today. Totally did not expect the Demon though. I have a resin Demon transkit and a '63 Unibody rebuilder but I'm happy to see both in fresh styrene.

Ya know, funny thing,, I don't hear many people complaining abut Round 2 only releasing reissues as often as you used to.?

Looks to me line the "Pinto Street Rod" version without the hood and rear window louvers.

They're both pretty good but the front end of the AMT has a more pronounced "W" to it, the Revell is definitely more accurate there. The front of the AMT has always looked more "Buick" to me but some people can't see it or it doesn't matter to them.

Drag City Resin casting. One of the last run of this particular kit. Only one I've ever seen in person. [or on the net for that matter] Bought it from Ed Jr. right after he took the business over when his dad passed. No more were ever made to my knowledge. I really should finish it up someday but got bogged down making a custom interior. The interior it came with has Chevy sew patterns on the seats and door panels.

Hey Ken, You know Atlantis is reissuing this kit in a few months but they're calling it "Sidewinder"?

One of the most fun things about owning my Trans Am is seeing the look on the faces of little kids when they see the headlights come up and down. ?

I was on a live model car site and read about Revell doing a boat tail Riviera as a follow-up to the '77 Monte Carlo, in the same curbside style. Of course that was almost 15 years ago now and I'm still waiting for the Riviera. ? So, in other words, I'll believe it when I see an official announcement from Round2.

The car has great lines. [No, these wheels do not come in the kit.]

Not only is the Tamiya curbside but the interior door panels have almost no detail and I've been told by a couple Mustang guys that the body proportions are off, but I can't really say about that. Both American kits have loads more detail and both were reviewed very favorably in the magazines when they came out. But, of course, this is an exception to the rule. ?

Ok, how about this decision?? Which one would you choose and why? Now, full disclosure, I have seen all of these kits built and unbuilt.

dropped front axle and spring from an AMT 27 Ford firetruck hotrod kit. I think the same part is in the recently reissued '27 phaeton kit but I'm not sure.

Just a little diversion. Mostly from the box with modified parts box wheels dropped front axle and wired kit flathead. Tamiya pearl yellow spray, wood done with various Tamiya acrylics and craft paints.

You have to take Scalemates with a grain of salt. They are sometime incomplete or just downright wrong. I've seen this many times in their listings.

Engine's done and installed. First time I wired a flathead. In fact, it's almost finished. Just final assembly and some details left to do. Ait cleaners are from the Revell Motion Performance '67 Camaro and the gauges are from a photoetch set I got years ago.

I usually do a coat of silver to check my bodywork as it shows any imperfection but the candy base coats are a pearl, not a tinted clear so you don't really need it. If it were the transparent regular candy you would. IIRC, the pickup is oriental blue CBC over the BIN.

I've used them quite a bit in the past. You need to put a clear coat over them for the full effect. How they work is the tint bleeds into the clearcoat creating the "candy" effect. I've always used Zinzer BIN to seal the plastic over a light coat of any primer. and usually used Duplicolor lacquer clearcoats. The HOK paint is extremely hot and you need to seal the plastic well or it will do nasty things to it.

Blue and green mixed with clear, just as Juha stated. BUT, I just do mist coats first, [airbrush] then a heaver coat followed by a couple coats of strait clear. After it's all completely dry, I wet sand and polish it out just the same as any other clearcoated paintjob. After all, that's exactly what it is. Oh, and the Rabbit glass was done in the same manner but using Tamiya smoke instead of the blue/green.

Tamiya acrylics. I've been using them to tint windows for decades.