Can-Con

AMT 'early '90s full size Ford pickup kits.

Even though this kit is marked as a '59, it's actually the '60 annual kit, one of the very first AMT annual kits with an actual engine instead of being a curbside kit. It's almost old enough to qualify for old age pension. ? I have this same reissue, which is from the '70s. It is a bit clunky compared to modern kits but the body is accurate and still build up to a good looking model with some work.

Same here. No listings from his supplier.

The other thing that differed between the regular 305 and the HO is the carb wasn't a regular Quadrajet, it was an electronic QJ. BTW, don't follow his painting instructions if you want to build a factory stock 3rd gen E-body, he's wrong on a lot of things and wrong on what some other things actually are.

They were the same wheels as on the second issue of the Horn Toad. Pretty sure they're Rader dragster wheels with the spokes painted,,

I'd much rather they backdate it back to the original "Horn Toad" kit with the super wide tires.

Yes, fantastic build of a bear of a kit. Definitely "THE" poster car of the '80s. The 17 year old me had this poster in my room ??,,,

Using silver as a barrier coat is a pretty common thing. A lot of silver and aluminum paints are made up of just the flake and carrier. That's what they're usually quite dull. When you spray them on the flakes lay down overlapping like the shingles on a roof. Makes a pretty good barrier. Shellac works the exact same way. Helps keep the dye from anything underneath from leaching up through the closely overlapping flakes or solvents from going under it. A lot of gold paint will work the same way. Not perfect but it does help a lot and the more coats the better it works. Most other paints are usually made up of carrier and pigment. The pigment is usually made up of more uneven shaped or rounded particles so when it lays down it's more like a layer of crushed rock or even a ball pit. Great drainage but doesn't keep the dye from underneath from leaching up through or solvents from anything put on top of it from going down through it no matter how many coats you use. I like to use a silver or gold layer to check my bodywork before painting, shows every little imperfection so you can fix them before your finish coats. Hope this wasn't too confusing. ?

I actually did up a set of correct valve covers for the engine years ago for Ken Kitchen of Kitchen Table Resins and made some suggestions to him on some mods to make on a Ford 429 to make a passible Caddy engine. He did send me back a couple sets of valve covers and one of the engine kits he sold but aside from my valve covers, it was just a copy of the MPC Ford engine. I don't think he's selling them any more though, that was over 10 years ago. Here's a shot of the resin valve cover,,

But then you have to pick the arm hairs off of it. ??

Actual Caddy 472 for reference. https://public.fotki.com/SteveMilberry/refrence_pics/cadillac-472500/

Olds Toronado 425 with "CADILLAC" script added to the valve covers.

Nigel, when you build that Caprice, please foil the whole A-pillar. The pic on the boxes is incorrect, the pillars on all full size GM cars in the mid '80s had a stainless steel trim peice that completely covered them. I'm kinda anal about those as the '76 I owned was one of my favorite cars that I owned. Looked almost identical to the one in the pic below except with different wheels and colour matched velour interior. Best "drive in" car ever ?

Can't wait to see what you do with this, Steve. You South Island guys build some pretty wicked cars.

Too bad there never was one of that series Caddy engines done in scale , but,, a 429 Ford could be fudged a bit to look pretty convincing. [I'll be using one in my Custom rwd Eldo when I build it, waiting for bumpers to return from LMKC] Seems to me at one time adapters were available to use the Ford intakes on the Caddy engine.

If not for the hood being completely removed in that one pic, I'd swear that was pics of a real, 1/1 car.

Back in the day, [early '70s] Palmer copied a few MPC kits [Challenger, Mustang and Corvette] Not 100% copies though, maybe 90%. They were released under the "PSM" brand. This '40 is supposedly from that group but never released originally by Palmer. Lindberg got it with the other Palmer stuff they got a hold of in the '90s and released it then. At least that was what was in the writeup in S.A. back when it was first released. I have one and it is very close to the AMT kit except for the lower quality of molding and wonkey roof. Jim, I'm sure you will build a fine looking model with it.

Thanks everyone. Just wish my pics were better for you. I think my old Canon may have been dropped one too many times. ?

It takes some cutt'n and grind'n and re-engineering, they don't want to play well together. But that's what hotrodding's about, right?

Just ,,, wow !!

Why "street rod" and not "hot rod"? Well, because this came out more of a '70s boulevard cruiser then hot rod. AMT body, fenders etc. with Revell chassis and most of the interior. A dual quad " '69 Z-28 302" was assembled from the parts box . Paint is Tamiya black spray and dull coated HOK snow white pearl on the upholstery. Details with Testors bottle paints. https://public.fotki.com/SteveMilberry/projects/black-29-ford-roadster/

Not quite Kit. I did veer off from the original some. Different interior, different intake etc. But I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. It's finished now and I'll post it up in the proper section very soon.

I'd say it's a '39 [ish] Chevy 2 door sedan.

Finished up the chassis and got the body and fenders mounted. The engine is pretty well finished. Just need to add an alternator bracket and rad hoses when the glue is fully set on the rad . Interior is almost done. Just needs the dash/windshield and steering wheel added. I modified the AMT kit dash part by cutting away the factory dash panel and grafting on the one from the Revell '30 coupe kit. Also added a photoetch gage cluster with photo reduced gages. Should be able to finish up the details like lights and bumpers tomorrow. Headlights are just sitting on the fenders right now to keep the rad centered, not glued down yet.

Been working on this for the past week and just wanted to bring it back to the top. more pics later today. If everything goes OK, I should have it finished up by the end of the weekend. ?