fseva

Seems to me, the problem just never went away - I can't seem to get it off a sheet without all of those wrinkles already formed before it's applied!

Actually, it's just the opposite - if your hand is wobbly, think of the gashes you could put in your beautiful paint job using a knife! Using a marker is a lot easier because you just lay it on top of the trim piece and follow it until you reach the end of the line. If this single swipe doesn't highlight enough of the trim, just do it again, with the marker at a smaller angle to the trim. I can do an entire car in about 15 minutes, where it takes several frustrating hours with BMF, and like you, I'm too old to be spending so much time on one phase of the hobby!

My main problem with BMF is removing it from the waxed backer - I have yet to find a way to do so without the tiny wrinkles appearing during removal... what do you do?

I have used 2 of their metallics, and they go on as smooth as butter. However, I have a feeling that it's because they put a little bit of detergent in their paint, to help break surface tension and make it flow better. The big problem with this is that the paint does not seem very durable - probably because to get the detergent in, they had to eliminate something else. I have had to wait until after my engines are installed to paint the tranny - when I painted the tranny before finishing the engine, through handling, the paint always started to wear off, and I'd get show-through to the previously applied colors.

Thanks for the product test - if I hadn't already bought the ones from UMM-USA, I would surely have bought these!

It's hard to tell how big this is - would it fit behind the driver's seat on the floor? According to the site you provided, the tank-like thing on the package shelf could also be a cap! Although I'm beginning to think that it's a woofer...

It's really not that critical, since they are optional (I think). The one that goes on the package shelf has no engraving on it - it just looks like 2 tanks connected to each other... the other one reminds me of a stereo component - an ampllifier or a tuner, but why you would put such a thing on the passenger floor is beyond me.

Pegasus has a ton of wheels available (as well as low profile tires) and they are beautifully plated parts; there are several really good resin makers that offer mostly unfinished wheels, and even some tires - they do use eBay a lot; so, all you'd have to do is an eBay search for 1:25 wheels, and you'd find lots to choose from.

I have an XBox, and it definitely is not that... 2nd vote for a 3rd brake light - again I ask, this certainly wouldn't be legal, would it? It would really block much of your rear-view!

OK - I'll bite - part 82 a "capacitor" - more info please...

Except that it blocks a lot of the driver's field of vision in the process...

Just as good as mine!

I've done it both ways this month. Believe me, there's no "better" way. If you do it after the chassis is installed, the shape of the sides doesn't flow smoothly into the fender above it; you still have the holes for the bumperette's pins to deal with - on one side they don't match the spacing, and you will wind up having to enlarge one of the holes to account for this. I thought that I could get around any install problems even if I had pre-installed the valance, but I was wrong. This is tough plastic, and there is no give in the engine bay - especially the wheel wells. I had to do some major cutting here, to get the thing assembled, and after I was done, the engine bay looked so bad, I decided to make the model a "curbside". This also allowed me to glue the very thin, warpy hood in place. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=101153

Strange place to put it... of course, the trunk doesn't open - so, you can't put stuff like this there...

I've just started work on my 67 Impala Street Machine, and the interior has several parts that I need help identifying... The parts I would like to identify are #82 (A & seems to go on the middle of the package shelf... strange place for such a large object - looks like 2 tanks on top of each other... #84 seems to go on the floor behind the driver's seat, it has several small "controls" on panels protruding from one of the long sides - looks like a foot warmer...

Just remember to leave the cob out... and if you use too much, it could leave the color looking... "stiff"...

Yes, just read a tip about adding talcum powder to paint - the more you add, the flatter the look!

I only know what you mean (I think) on a plastic palette... You can't expect a first brush coat to be without streaks, especially with your very thin paint. However, after another coat, you will see the paint is filling in the streaks; subsequent coats should be aimed at smoothing the paint out.

If Flow-Aid is what I think it is, it's going to thin your paint even more! Most acrylic flow enhancers include stuff to make the paint smoother and thinner, including a little bit of water, to make the paint "flow" better through an airbrush.

I have never built a motorcycle, but what applies to car models would surely apply here... Just try test-fitting the parts and you'll know which method you prefer!

I use a Tamiya Painting Stand Set TAM 74522... Best price I've found at Scale Hobbyist https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/painting-stand-set/TAM00074522/product.php

I've seen a lot of "saws" by Tamiya, but so far, no scribers... and so far, not at online stores in the USA... Or perhaps you're referring to the scriber they sell with its own handle - I have that one, and I found the business end to be a bit thick...

This one looks like it'd be excellent for removing seam lines!

You're right! Will keep this page bookmarked!

I found them at this website! Thanks very much!