Stray

Dude that thing looks effing REAL. Way cool finish mate. Really impressed with the quality of the parts, the paint is groovy and the finish is downright spot on. 1/6 huh? Thats a buttload of detail in it.

I've started to fiddle with the chassis. Here is where it's at for now. The fuel and return lines are on the right and the brake line on the left as per reference pics. I've also rebuilt the diff. I had to slightly shorten it by bringing the control arms and spring mounting points in a couple of mil to allow clearance for the drum brakes from my parts box. Also added the brake line and splitter which I scratched up also. No Idea what the parts are from, but the splitter was attached to some kind of pulley, but with trimming and sanding and drilled out it fits the part I feel. Here be pics:

Yeah thanks for the pics guys. Glad to see some of you remember it and also have built some sweet versions.

I'll take one of each please Greg. I did have the blue amt version hears ago. I remember chopping it within an inch of its life and doing a dry lakes kind of look to the roof, but built it as a leadsled. I haven't the slightest idea what happened to it since though!

Awesome build man. I really like the level of detail you have attained. And your finish is perfect. Much congrats.

Awesome! Thanks for the suggestion guys. I just couldn't think of a way to rectify this that wouldn't ruin the finish on the rims. I will try the bmf first, but thanks for the info Brian too, so waterbased acrylic is ok to use over the lacquer? Or is that just because it wont be visible once the tyres are mounted?

hehehe... It's not about age, it's all about experience! Man you guys must have seen some great stuff come and go. And yeah, there is a lot of stuff that is less common over here in Oz I guess. If you click that link and take a scroll through some of the other items that ebay shop has there is a few more old kits and even a detail set for the 1/8 big T hotrod. I think it is downright awesome that some of the stuff you guys have built many years ago are still around, and you have bits and pieces laying around in your stashes. When I stopped building I went through a heap of my boxes and gathered all the parts together. I have one full box of tyres, one of wheel, another with engines and parts, and another with interior/sundry. There is another box with tear downs and chassis stuff as well. I have kept them even though I hadn't built for near 20 years, and rummaging through looking for stuff to use is a great thing. I can only imagine what you guys have stored away for that 'rainy day'.

Found this while checking out ebay. Anyone here remember these? Anyone here THAT old? At $150.00 (AU) would you build her up? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VINTAGE-AMT-ORIGINAL-40-FORD-COUPE-3-IN-1-CUSTOMIZING-KIT-RARE-AND-AWESOME-/281617348264?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Model_Kits&hash=item4191b3b6a8

I airbrush with AutoAir and Createx paints for canvas and aluminium art, as well as automotive. It is a waterbourne acrylic. I know in colder climates it is recommended to warm the paint a little to improve flow.

Yeah Art. I remember reading about that back in old SAE magazines. I believe some kits came with the tyres and bodies in the same bags and the rubber had melted into the roofs! But what does this mean to me right now? IS there a way I can stop this? The tyres are relatively new ones, I believe they were the big'n'littles from a 34 ford kit. Can I paint the outside of the rims using tamiya acrylic to seal them? Should I just spill thinners on my desk and set fire to it all now???

Hey guys and girls. So I used alclad on my wheels and parts, I gave them almost 3 days to cure and put a couple of the wheels into their rubber. They have been like that for a couple days now and I have started making up the backs for the wheels and brakes etc. When i removed the rims from the tires they are extremely tacky. Do I have a chemical reaction here or something??? I don't want anything to melt!!! Here is a pic showing the tacky areas:

Welcome back to the bench man. Sounds to me like a bit of solvent pop. As well as trying what Ace just said, maybe try further agitating your primer. Also try warming it up in a bath of warm water. I have sometimes gotten fisheyes when laying paint on too thick, so are you doing a very light first tack coat? Maybe just go with the white prime instead of the grey? Good luck.

I'd go with an Iwata HP-CS every time. But for an american AB you can check out the Mojo 3 by Mike Learn.

So very clean... love it.

It's sorcery. It must be.

Thanks Doug. I started looking at the diff and the two piece kit part was fine for one build but far too flimsy to be pulled apart for a second turn. The axle housings just couldn't take being separated by my clumsy paws, so I did away with them and attached some styrene tube to the centre. I had to remove the arms and spring mounting points to reattach to the new tubes. Decided that since I was at it I might as well knock up some proper springs too from tie wire. I then cut a 1mm piece of tube and heated the springs, then sat them onto the styrene to melt it into position which gives me both a clean level base to the springs and something for the glue to adhere to when fitting them. While I was at it I noticed a severe lack of coil for the dizzy! I had thought the coil would be mounted at the firewall or on the side of the engine bay, which is why I wired the dizzy with a long coil lead. But the reference pics all show the coil sits right beside the distributor, Gonna be fiddly now since the leads are in the way. Anyhow, I used styrene tube to make the coil, inserted some smaller rod in for the contact point, sanded and moulded it into one piece, then drilled it for the wire. I made the bracket from a pepsi can I cut up, bent to shape and drilled, then some skinny styrene for the retaining bolt. It's so tiny!

Ahhh THANKYOU ACE! That top image I found, but the bottom one is perfect. Exactly what I was needing. Thanks again

Yeah Andy that is what I did. From what I can tell it is a mechanical linkage, but a lot of modified motor pics have cable setups and half/half when it seems the carby and/or engine has been changed. I think I may just scratch up a linkage for it. Thanks for the reply mate

Its still looks good mate. Maybe try rubbing the affected area with a light sand and doing one more coat before clear?

It's just Tamiya red X7 gloss.

Thanks guys. I tend to keep thinking of other stuff to add. When is enough enough??? A bit more plumbing and a dipstick:

I have tried searching but cannot find the info I need. So, does anyone know for sure if a 67 Chevelle had a mechanical throttle linkage complete from pedal to carby? Was it all cable? Half and half maybe? I am adding throttle detail to the carb and just going to run a cable through to the firewall, but if it is mechanical as most of the 60's Holdens had over here I may just have to scratchbuild the whole thing. ______________________________________ 2nd Question: I have searched google AGAIN and cannot find any reference for this question... What we call a parcel shelf over here you americans refer to as a rear package tray, that much I found out. But I can't find any pics of the stock versions. Do anyone know if they were just covered in the same vinyl as the seats/doors etc? Were they carpeted with the same stuff as the floor? Also this AMT kit has a speaker and boot vent(?) detail on it (pic below). Were these chrome or black or coloured the same as the vinyl interior? Thanks in advance for anyone who replies

http://www.blutack.com/ always handy.

She's really coming up sweet man.

I love these cars. Over here they were the Valiant VE and VG model Coupes. I had 2 of them, both were 245 Hemi's. I actually have one of these kits that I started converting to the Aussie grille/bonnet. Also, geez you really know how to make a dude feel like a dud! I thought I was doing okay with my engine assembly but seeing this has dropped my jaw. Why do I bother scratch building my bits and pieces when there is aftermarket stuff available! Oh yeah, I'm broke lol