MGL

Looks good.

Plastic spoons might get you the inner fender well, specifically the deeper soup spoons if you can find them, or the spoons from Wendy's. You might need to add sheet styrene around the edge to give you the flatter curve, and on the inner flat part.

The radiator makes this build, I like it.

Classy, I like it.

That water drop effect is cool, I've never seen how thats done. I want to try that on a van I'm going to do.

I agree, and I would just include all the A and B body Mopars, the camaro, the thunderbird. I would have said 58 until Harry posted this but he is right, 67 was a stellar year.

On the 41 plymouth the factory coil is mounted on the firewall as in the picture at this link http://www.secondchancegarage.com/classic-car-photogallery1/1941-plymouth-special-deluxe-eng1.cfm , you can see the rear most wire coming up from the distributor is going to the coil. I used a Parts by Parks distributor on the last 41 plymouth I did and set the coil in the depression molded in the fire wall for the kit supplied coil.

I grew up at my Dads body shop and learned to paint there with no paint both, spraying enamals, lacquers, and urathane paints. in the winter we would paint in the early afternoon when the shop was warmest and in the summer we would paint in the evening when the shop was coolest. This was southern MD where the humidity was regurlerly above 80%. If you see moisture condinsing in the evening, all that water came out of the air lowering the humidity. Good water traps will keep it out of the lines and an additional measure we used to take was to run a section of the coiled hose through a cooler full of ice in between the line coming the compressor and the line to the paint gun (we had air lines hard piped along the walls). The ice in the cooler would condense any remaining moisture out of the air and also keep the beer cold. We never had issues with moisture when we did this. As far as off gasing or evaportion causing problems with the paint after its sprayed I think matching the temp range of your reducers or using additives to slow it down will help but I haven't painted a 1/1 car in over 10 years so I'm not sure what additives are available these days. I have had some fogging of spray paints when spraying in high humidity but I can't really control the mix in a spray can. I suspect your correct that the paint was starting to flash off too soon on your second coat, if the humidity was high the temp was high and that would accelerate the catylist in the clear.

Really cool.

Cool, I like it.

I like it, I've never seen this kit before.

Looks good, I might have to get one of these kits.

Looks good.

Looks good, I like it.

Looks good!

Very cool, I haven't been in one in about 35 years. Now I need to redo the seats in the 66 i built!

Looks really good.

Nicely done.

Looks really good, I did not realize the chrome trim went all the way around the top on the back of the front seats, is that correct for the 1/1 or is that artistic license on your part?

Nice job.

Looks good, nice job.

Looks nice.

Different and cool, I like it!

I start and finish 1 or 2 at a time, never 3 or I would get confused, and usually only one. The times when I have 2 going at a time is when I know there is going to be alot of down time due to complicated paint or waiting on a part.

Nice pair, I especially like the green stock one.