Goodwrench3

Interesting. Hadn't heard that before -- I'll put that in my notebook for when I break the seal on them. I've got 2 brand new factory shrink-wrapped 4270's in the stash that I'll probably work on first. I just love the 4270, 4300, and the COE Transtar II Eagle.

Hey -- I've got a set of resin 2-hole truck wheels from KJ. Do I need to soak them in something before I prime them ? Thx.

Thanks all for the information !

Yes very nice ! Which wheels and tires are those ? Thx

Very nice. What color/brand paint did you use for the interior ? I've been looking for that shade of tan for my current project. Thx

I do love the 4270. I've got two of them still in original shrink wrap in my "stash".

Hi all: I'm still picking at my AMT Freightliner cabover project and have a question. Are track widths for the rear drives and the front wheels supposed to be the same width ? I.e. width measured to the outside of the rear duals vs. width measured to the outside of the front wheels ? I know I need to narrow up the front axle on the AMT kit. Here are two photos (a left and a right) showing the width of the rear wheels compared to the width of the cab -- note that I lined up the left side even with the side of the cab. You can see the right side outer wheel extends about 1/2 a tire beyond the right side of the cab. I was just wondering if it is normal for the rear track width to be wider than the front ?

The big thing on the Freightliner is the front axle. You'll have to do something so that the front wheels don't stick out past the cab (like they will if built per instructions). I think many have cut a section out of the front axle to narrow it up.

I've been "binge watching" all of the Movin' On shows on YouTube ... getting revved up for this kit. In the series 1 episode "The trick is to stay alive", they talk about the "903" engine in the truck and there is a shot of engine with the hood open and you can clearly see the stamped "903" on the valve cover. In another episode, it was interesting how you could see they were in two different trucks during the show -- they both had the ivory colored leather seats, but in one the headliner had the leather covering and the other had a cloth covered headliner. The 60" sleeper really makes that truck a beauty. There are a lot of great detail shots during the show of the truck (inside and out) -- I didn't realize the frame rails were also painted green like the cab (vs. black). I built the original AMT kit back when I was in grade school (mid 1970's). Unfortunately, I can't find it at my parents house now :-( It would be cool if someone made an aftermarket 60" sleeper for the kit -- but then I suppose you'd also need to extend the frame as well. Can't wait to put 3 or 4 of these in my "stash" :-) Now... back to YouTube to watch some more !

Now if they would only put the right sleeper on this kit ! The original AMT kit had the short "coffin" sleeper which was not what the "Movin' On" Kenworth had in the TV series.

Holy cow !!! Send me 6 of them !!!!!! yeeeee Hawww !

Here are some pics of the chassis I was referring to. Note in the first pic on the left side, you can see the "pebbly" finish reflected in the light that I was referring to. In the second photo the round cross member bars look like they have a pretty decent smooth finish. In the third photo, you can see the "pebbled" finish better in the light along that leftmost frame rail. In the last photo, you can see that the front end area has a pretty decent finish too. Thanks for your help.

This is the next chassis i'm getting ready to paint. You can see the filler work I had to do to fill in the ditches, dents, holes, valleys, pin marks, etc. So are guys spraying the Tamiya primer and then actually sanding it on a piece like this with all that detail and the recesses etc. ?? Thanks

HI -- thanks for the replies. I was spraying in my basement in an Artograph paint booth. Here is where the problem is -- with the NASCAR floor pans, it's not possible to sand them after spraying primer. There is so much detail and recesses, etc. that you really can't practically sand them (in my opinion). So if you have something like that where you are not able to sand the primer, it seems like you are then at the mercy of the smoothness of the primer coat -- and then how do you get that nice and smooth ? Again, 25+ years ago I was using Model Master spray enamel -- so it seemed easier as we just sprayed directly on the bare plastic (after sanding out pin marks, etc.).

Hi all: I've got a few builds in process after taking a 25+ year break .. lol long break. Anyway.. in the past, I never used primer -- I just brushed or sprayed rattle cans over bare plastic. This worked pretty well -- for a chassis, I'd spray Model Master gloss gull gray and I'd get a really nice smooth wet glossy finish on the chassis pan. Wanting to "step up" my skills, I've started to take the advice of most here and use primer on everything. So far, this has been a "plus" as it has helped with brush painting engine parts, etc. Tonight, I got a chance to spray the chassis for the #52 Butch Miller Revell ASA Camaro I'm working on. After spraying it (Tamiya rattle can), I can see a fine "pebbly" finish in some areas which looks like the surface finish of the primer (Tamiya fine light gray spray primer) that the paint is showing. I'll post a pic here after the paint has had a day or so to dry. Here are the steps I used in painting it: 1) Sanded, filled, etc. all pin marks, flash, holes, divots, etc. 2) Sprayed 1 coat of Tamiya fine light gray spray primer on the chassis. 3) After the primer dried for about a week (that being today), I sprayed 1 light "mist" coat of Tamiya TS-49 bright red and waited about 10 minutes. Then I sprayed another heavier coat over it. So -- I'm wondering -- in order to get that nice even, smooth, wet finish what I might be doing wrong? -- maybe not enough primer ?? -- do I need more coats of spray color over the primer ? I didn't want to get the paint on too thick. Thanks for any help.

Hi -- Years ago, I always used red sable brushes with the Testors and Model Master enamel paints. They worked great. Now, with the Tamiya and Testors acrylics, the paint seems to want to dry on the bristles of the red sable brushes. Is it better to use synthetic brushes with these acrylics ? Other tips ? Thanks

Hi -- Getting ready to start an '83/'84 Buddy Baker Valvoline T-Bird. Does anyone have a good spray paint color match for the "Valvoline" blue ? Thanks!

Thank you !

Wow -- thanks a TON for that great photo and the info !! I've never been able to find a picture of those and that explains a lot. I'm sure they were a lot more reliable than those crappy Buick 231 V6's in the 1980s. Thanks again.

Hi all: I'm working on the Revell kit of the 1987/88 #52 ASA Butch Miller Camaro. Does anyone have any photos of those V6 GM 90 deg. ASA engines ? I was assembling the header halves today and was expecting the exhaust port connections to be equally spaced, but it appears like they are not -- almost like 2 of them are right together on each side? Thanks !

Hi all -- Still creeping ahead on my AMT Freightliner COE build. Just wondering about the radiator -- are you guys filling in the open part when you put the halves together ? It looks like all of the coolant is going to run out the bottom of it if you don't ? Thanks!

Awesome! Do you happen to remember what brand/color paint you used for the "Skoal green" ?

Nice ! What brand/color paint did you use for the orange ?

Thanks those are great -- I'd like to see the engine and transmission alone (pulled from the car). Thanks again.

Hi all: I'm looking for 1:1 photos of NASCAR engines 1985-1988 (GM and Ford). Does anyone have a site or photos of these (engine and transmission) ? I'm looking for them for paint color details. Thanks!