RichCostello

If you can find an MRC wheel/tire set they have a ton of different adapters that can help fit any wheels to almost any kit.

Chris(HPI guy) has a new build review of this kit. It looks like a nice kit.

I would love to have the stem! If they hadn't put the indentation on the door for the mirror, I wouldn't care that I only had the one.

Yeah, I can relate to that, but.......wait, what was I talking about?

Why is a 57 T-bird in the class of 59?

I did almost the exact same thing with the mirrors, but I lost the stem part(drivers side). I ended up using the passenger side mirror on the drivers side, looks a little goofy, but better than nothing.

That's because the thread is almost 13 years old. Photo Bucket has changed.

I'm not sure what's going on with their cases, but the store here was almost completely out them a few weeks ago, and about the time the new kits started to show up, so did the new display cases. They look like the same ones they've had before, but they're in new boxes

If you live near a Hobby Lobby(like I do) you can get them even cheaper than that with the 40% coupon. The 1/24 size are about $4.80, and I use a lot of the 1/32 size, that will hold smaller cars(Mustang, Camaro,etc.)are about $4.20. Of course, you can only get them one at a time that way, but when you're 5 minuets from HL it isn't a big deal.

Will do.

I got a good looking paint job, and the perfect color, so I ain't gonna mess with it. I'll try the Treatment on something else some day.

I used a medium point Pentel Sunburst silver metallic gel pen on the seats, and some of the dash trim, and it worked perfectly. I bought it at Hobby Lobby in a 2 pack, and it might be the best interior detailing tool ever made. It looks just like chrome, and works on very fine details with no touch-up needed. I also used it on the door panel trim, and it worked great!

That's exactly what I have, the dopey "pouch" set. It was a freebie.

I don't know, I got it as a free sample with something I ordered online a long time ago. I don't remember who it was that sent it(buffing cream-model wax-model mist wipes&display case cleaner).

I'm not totally sold on the stripes yet, but I think the white stripes would look good with the color. Guess I'll decide when it's up on all fours. I do know that I won't be painting the stripes on!

Thanks Steve, The paint already looks as good as any factory paint job from 1969, so I think I'll just leave it as is. It's not that often that I get a nice, smooth paint job on the first shot, so I don't want to press my luck. By the way, if anyone is trying to find a good color for the 69 Chevelle, you should consider Model Master Bright Aqua Pearl. It's a beautiful color, and looks perfect on this car! It's very close to a turquoise color that Chevy did that year.

Why is that?

The body has already been clear coated, and I don't want the stripes to be cleared. On the 1:1 car, the stripes were actually decals, so they would not look right(to me). The directions on the wax says to be careful around decals, so I guess that it's OK to wax after decals are applied. I'm mainly concerned as to how well the decals will stick to a waxed body if I were to do the wax first.

I just hope that Gregg remembers that he promised me a free copy for some decals I sent him.

Well, they apparently didn't go totally belly up because we have a Radio Shack here in our town.

I have some of The Treatment model buffing cream, and model wax that I want to try on my 69 Chevelle, and was wondering if it's better to buff/wax before or after applying the decals?

I stopped in today and bought the last can of Model Master ultra gloss clearcoat on the shelf. They were just putting the AMT 64 Plymouth Belvedere on the shelf. I'm assuming that this is the same kit as the old Lindberg kit. Does anybody know if there's anything new in this issue?

I don't see it! I did an image search on Google, and there are some very good pictures of the rear of the car, and there is a gap there, so to my old eyes, it looks good. If the gap looks too big to anyone, why not just cut the bumper from the trim, and file down the gap. That would eliminate the gap, and some of the space between the bumper and the end caps.

Where did you get it?

The rear bumper in my kit looks fine to me. Am I missing something?