Helper Monkey

Liking it a lot.

That sorta looks like Support Induced Discoloration. Basically it is when are impurities in or on the support that the pigment to discolor discoloration. I have seen this happen to a lot on people who paint acrylics on wood supports. It can happen with plastic too. In the art community it is common to seal the support with something before painting. A popular item is Golden's GAC 100. I have heard of people using Gamblin's PVA sizing, even thinned down PVA glue or shellac (only for use on oil based paints). Of course I am coming from an artist background here. I would say strip it, clean it really good with soap and water, clean it again with 90% isopropyl Alcohol and finally paint it again. If that doesn't work do it all over again but seal it before you paint. If it still does it I would say its the paint.

Does anyone know if I decanter for use in my airbrush, that It will still smell as bad?

I finally got myself a can of the Tamiya Fine White Primer. It does goes on super smooth. I Like it. My only complaint, its so BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH smelly.

Thanks, I am not worried about stock. This build will be something different. So using that would be ok as its suppose to be a upgraded motor. everyone thank you for your replies.

Also I forgot to ask is it a 318, 340 or 360? And does anyone know if there are any engine detail kits available for this engine? I mostly stick to stock but for this one I want to completely build up the motor. would this work? http://www.hobbylinc.com/model-car-garage-2-carb-intake-manifold-w:separate-risers-plastic-model-accessory-kit-1:24-1:25-scale-1009 I also assume i could use http://www.hobbylinc.com/model-car-garage-holley-dominator-carburetors-2-metal-cast-plastic-model-accessory-1:24-1:25-scale-901 and http://www.hobbylinc.com/detail-master-carburetor-linkage-hardware-plastic-model-vehicle-accessory-kit-1:24-1:25-scale-2420 with it. I may just stick one 4 barrel on top with an air cleaner. as long as the hood clears. I basically want the thing to be a sleeper. Looks stock but is fast, if it were a real car.

Thank you so much. Now I know which direction to start heading in.

Its a Plymouth P12 Special Deluxe. It has the stock inline 6 but they also provide a V8 for a modded version. Does anyone know which motor this is suppose to be? I want to look up reference photos.

JEALOUS

Sounds like paper marbling to me. Never thought of marbling to do a model. Hummm ideas are turning in my head.

looks like i need to take it back to the shop I bought it at then .

I love the purple and white combo.

I ended up picking up a can of Tamiya gray today. I will see how it works. http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/paints-finishes-60/finishing-supplies-62000/surface-primer-l-gray-87042 I have seen the term decanting a few times on here. I finally looked it up. For those of you who do decant the Tamiya how long do you wait? Also are there any straws that you have found that fit the nozzle better than a drinking straw? Is there a recommended cleaner I should use to clean out my air brush? Would an Odorless Mineral Spirit work? I have a few bottles of Gamblin's Gamsol http://www.gamblincolors.com/solvents/ laying around which I use to clean up and thin my oil paints with. I also have a citrus brush cleaner for cleaning up my oil paints. Not sure if these will work.

This is really different. I am diggin it.

I have been using AK Interactive Acrylic Primer. I am not sure I really like it. Maybe I need to bight the bullet and use a non acrylic Primer. So which ones do you guys use and why? I would like to switch but I want one I can run thru my airbrush. I really dislike using Spray Cans.

I have hit a bit of a wall now. i kept touching up places and re-sanding them. I realized that I was starting to build up too much paint. So I ended up stripping the body. Lucky for me I used only acrylics and my acrylic brush cleaner loosened up the paint enough that some scrubbing with a stiff bristle brush was all I needed to remove the paint. Which was a good idea cause originally I painted the a Metallic blue for FW Pealescent acrylic ink. This removed all that old blue paint build up. I have then re-primed it with AK interactive White Acrylic Primer which I modified with Golden GAC-200 and Golden's Airbrush Medium. I also ended up stripping the paint off the door panels cause when I pulled the tape away the first time it pulled the paint and primer right off. This time I hope my better prep and my mixture of AK , GAC 200 make it stick better to the plastic. I then blasted them with Tamiya Flat white. I re-masked them and used liquid masking on part of the dash. When it stops raining and I have free time, I will paint the panels blue and then blast the body with High Flow Pearl Shimmer as a base coat. For now I am gonna finish masking the dash and work on my next model.

I like it a lot.

Ohhh Meijers, how I miss you so. They have Fred Meyers out here in Washington, its not the same. They built a new Meijers near my parents in Michigan, it was very small compared to the older Meijer that was 5 minutes further down the expressway. The older one carried everything, i remember getting a bunch of automotive spray paints there at one time.

I have always loved white cars.

I like the no step on the tail pipe and the wrappings. mice little details

nice, i like the color.

My school has a few of the makerbot in the Industrial Design Lab. They recently got them. Always wanted to use them. Nice to see there is an inexpensive version out there. I was thinking of making my own. there are plenty of kits out there to do so.

I use EZ Air Acrylic Brush Cleaner to clean my brushes. It will even remove dried in paint from any brush without ruining them if soaked at full strength for an hour and then run under warm water and gently massaged in your palm. http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/brush-washers-and-cleaning-supplies/brush-and-hand-cleaners/ez-air-acrylic-brush-cleaner.htm. I never use hot water, just slightly warm water. Hot water can loosen the glue that is used to help hold the bristles down in the ferrule of the brush. I never splay the bristles out. It will ruin the point. I add a little of the EZ and water in my palm and in a gentle circular motion I swish the brush around or go back and forth. I never jamb the bristles into my palm, instead I drag them along my palm. At the end of a day, I use Masters Brush Cleaner http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/brush-washers-and-cleaning-supplies/brush-and-hand-cleaners/masters-brush-cleaner-and-preserver.htm on my Sable Brushes and let it sit for a while then rinse them out. Using other soaps such as dish soap or hand soap can cause problems in the long term care of any natural haired brush. When you use harsher soaps they remove the natural oils from the hair which then causes them to lose their shape, snap and to become brittle and break more easily. I also never let me brushes dry standing strait up. Water will drip down into the ferrule of the brush and cause the wood to expand and contract. this is why some brushes the varnish cracks on them and why the ferrule becomes lose and come off. I lay them flat on a towel to dry and once they are dry I can then store them standing up. Everything I mentioned has been taught to me by both the art store I work for and by DaVinci Brushes in Germany. As SfanGoch said, Hair conditioner is a great inexpensive alternative to brush cleaners.

I am working on the same one right now. I can not wait to see what you do to yours.

I would personally stay away from the Badger 155. Because it is a siphon feed. I find that siphons have a larger chance to sputter than gravity feed ones. I personally own the Iwata HP-CS http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/iwata-airbrushes/eclipse/hp-cs/. It does almost everything I want it to do. I do not know much about badger other than they have a good reputation. I do not know the difference between the different lines. I know a lot about the Iwata Lines however. I got training from Iwata a few years back at my job. It has a .35mm tip on it. The problem is that it can only take stuff with small pigment size. I also have an extra needle , jet and jet housing to convert it a .5mm. I was trying out the Daler Rowney F.W. Pearlescent Inks and they had a hard time with them. Metallic Paints just tend to need larger air brushes. It clogged a lot less when I thinned the paint down with golden's airbrush thinner and using the .5 needle conversion. I also modified my airbrush with a MAC valve http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/accessories/external-mac-valve/ So that I can adjust the air pressure on the fly and the preset adjustable handle that you can see here http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/accessories/hardware/. The handle is great as it controls how far back I can pull on the trigger so I can maintain a certain spray pattern size. I effectivly turned my airbrush into a higher end model like this one http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/iwata-airbrushes/hi-line/hp-ch/. If you want a good starter Iwata use the Revolution series. http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/iwata-airbrushes/revolution/cr/.