Joe Handley

We had customers at Toys “R” Us like that, many of which had tax exempt forms since they were resellers.....got to the point I couldn’t stand most of them too.

Started shooting another R/C body, instead of the simple single color paint like on the buggy, this is a 3 layer paint in some areas that will be backed by bed liner, then use the candy red from the 1st coat tinting the windows, Gasser style? Wish I had thought of that tape loop on the roof to help hold onto the shell while painting a couple decades ago, though........

Not surprised, with how things are going in this country when it comes to Covid, it would have been stupid not to.

I had heard this, think the same is happening in the R/C side too, between manufacturing and shipping delays and likely more time building, bashing, and rebuilding, there’s a lot of back orders for stuff I’m looking to get.

Got my “Long Armed Bandit” Traxxas Bandit Buggy R/C project I started around New Years up to this point in the last couple days. It started as a pile of aftermarket parts, eBay chop shop chassis and shocks to build something to run against my buddy’s Losi 8ight buggy when we would get together on Friday nights...... but got put on the back burner with all of what has been going on since mid-January. This is what the high powered model normally looks like. Also figured it might be a good idea to finish this before I get the low powered Bandit model and a different set of parts to build one of these out of next....... ?

That is cool!

I found it at a different one that I normally shop at, figured that helping hands would be handy for soldering the battery plugs for the ESC on a R/C project I’ve been dragging my feet on too.

Uhg, forgot how much I hate plain, white styrene when it comes to working on models vs the primer grey that AMT/ERTL used. The details are hard to see unless you have a really strong light, then since I used white putty for filler, I couldn’t see where one started and the other ended? I ended up using a head lamp to get enough light on the subject to see what I was doing.

Uhg, hate that feeling?

Huh, I honestly didn’t realize he had still been alive, or was that young, it seemed like he had just disappeared years ago.

Year’s my main 3, there’s very few miles on the K-5 and I’ve debated about rebodying the truck as a Power Wagon or just trying to sell it as is. The XJ (which is an AX-10 that was turned into a SCX-10) and the Telluride have been beat fairly hard over the time I’ve had them. Also started with a HPI Wheely King That kept the stock frame, though that may eventually become a monster truck once again to match my WK that was built as one, originally from spare parts. Here’s the WK crawler with my SCX-24 Now here’s the monster WK I mentioned.. I’ve also bought and started building a Clod Buster and Lunchbox since this whole Covid mess started.

I talked to a lot of people in the upper half original 13 States, MA in particular this week. Pretty much everybody I talked to in that area was talking about upper 80’s on the cool end and upper 90’s on the hot end BEFORE the heat index, with it’s been over 100 there for much of the last few weeks and may not subside for a little while unless that hurricane ends up partially blowing up that way after making landfall in the mainland.

Picked these up at HL while at the neighboring Harbor Freight picking up some Bits for my Dremel, heat shrink, and a soldering gun for my R/C stuff.

Wow, that looks way better in that blue with wire wheels than the Other iterations if it.

Best of luck to you family Carl, times like these can be difficult on everyone in the family. My Mom was bed and wheel chair bound for the last few years of her life and in and out of the Hospitals and nursing homes much of the last 8+ years and we were expecting that again in January instead of losing her. It’s good you’re so close to the home she’s now to, that makes going to see her that much easier!

I don’t think any of those ever made it to the States when new, but they have to be getting old enough for the Radwood, Japanese Import scene guys, or just odd ball guys like Jalopnik’s Jason Torchinski to import to the U.S. by now.

Wow Pat, just Wow!

Thanks! This will be as low as it’s going, as though it were at a static, driveable altitude for this build. To be honest, I not sure if this model year develops much, if any camber when lowered, and I honestly don’t know much about Beetles in general.

Here’s the two sled projects side by side as of tonight.

Here’s the headlight donor for my Volksled, an old RC2/Stevens International issue of the AMT ‘39/‘40 Ford Tudor Sedan Street Rod kits that I apparently bought 2 of 15 years ago then forgot about until this last December when I found them replacing a worn out bed frame after Christmas? Much like the Volksled, I’m going the same lead sled route here too, then using the Pegasus chrome reverse wheels and short narrow white walls for the car to be lowered over. Also planning on keeping the Olds 303 in it. No clue what colors this and the Bug will be painted.

Still letting the putty dry on the Bug and Tradesman, did get the ‘39 Ford Headlights figured out!

Well, Last night I started customizing one of the RC2/Stevens International ‘39/‘40 Ford Tudor Sedan kits I bought 15 years ago, almost all the same body mods I’m doing to the ‘68 Beetle kit I bought Saturday plus using the Pegasus chrome reverse wheels and narrow whitewalls Did also find that I should be able to make the ‘39 headlights and trim work inverted on the Beetle with some work on that part of the VW front fenders, then use the ‘39 grill and mold the ‘40 headlights to the front fenders on the Sedan then do something to lower the rear some.

Well, It’s Filler Time? went at the Bug and my Lunchbox with some Tamiya Filler, may have enough filler primer on my Clod to be ok there, need to wetsand the snot out of it though first.

Turns out I used the first method you suggested about an hour or so after posting this, I did have to sand some flats into the upper pivots for front suspension since it pushed the top half of the wheel out like a pre-war GP car. The rear axles are still level, but that would only be noticed if one looked closely? I ended doing the first thing Bill suggested an hour or so after posting this, the above link is to that thread, if you need it for future reference. BTW, they never molded the tops of the door openings under the gutters, so if you ever shave those for a build of this kit, make sure to drag a #11 under the gutters from the base of the cowl to the B-Pillar at least a few times each side, did the same when I shaved off what ever that ridge in the front door gap too.

I’m going to stick with the existing rolling stock, though I did just cut the part that the wheel goes onto the suspension part off and glue them back on at a higher position like a dropped spindle would allow for. Rear driveshafts will look off if some looks close enough though.