Joe Handley

Well, It’s Filler Time? went at the Bug and my Lunchbox with some Tamiya Filler, may have enough filler primer on my Clod to be ok there, need to wetsand the snot out of it though first.

Turns out I used the first method you suggested about an hour or so after posting this, I did have to sand some flats into the upper pivots for front suspension since it pushed the top half of the wheel out like a pre-war GP car. The rear axles are still level, but that would only be noticed if one looked closely? I ended doing the first thing Bill suggested an hour or so after posting this, the above link is to that thread, if you need it for future reference. BTW, they never molded the tops of the door openings under the gutters, so if you ever shave those for a build of this kit, make sure to drag a #11 under the gutters from the base of the cowl to the B-Pillar at least a few times each side, did the same when I shaved off what ever that ridge in the front door gap too.

I’m going to stick with the existing rolling stock, though I did just cut the part that the wheel goes onto the suspension part off and glue them back on at a higher position like a dropped spindle would allow for. Rear driveshafts will look off if some looks close enough though.

Thanks Carl!

I picked up one of the Revell ‘68 Beetle at Hobby Lobby yesterday since I never bought one before and decided to make a Sled out of it. So far, it’s been lowered, sanded off the welting between the fenders and valances and bumpers, and drip rails. Haven’t filled in the handles, emblems, other random openings and still debating what I want to do with the side trim and door hinges at this time. Oh, heads up, discovered that they done have the gaps for the door tops molded in place when I started to remove the drip rails, if somebody else wants to do this, cut the door openings into the. Body before you start sanding so they can be used as a guy for your #11 blades! How I lowered the from should be obvious if you compare the top and bottom spindles and uprights! Wasn’t sure about the rear suspension, so I did the same there too.... Here’s where I am at the the time, early in the AM .

Anybody tried to lower one of these? Looks like the rear suspension is molded as one piece, arms, drive shafts, hubs, etc. Front may not be to bad, at least!

This one has both left and right hand dashes in it, I don’t know the difference in Beetles though, XJ Cherokees, K-Cars, and increasingly, the platform my 200, Avengers, Journeys, Calibers and it’s Jeep siblings on the otherhand......?

Thanks, for the info and I dig that look! I was thinking about going the more traditional Lead Sled route with this one for something different?

Just picked this up today with some zip ties and drawing supplies from the local Hobby Lobby, any word on how this kit is?

This thread just got them a sale!, I got to thinking a 1/20 Lindberg F-Body would work for a suspension downer on my 1//20 AMX kit and they happened to have a not perfect Firebird kit that would work, so that is now on order?

I don’t know, I went into my local store for the first time since March or February and it was about the same, it sis have the ‘60 Chevy P/U, Godzilla Army Jeep, Escalade......ended up buying the new issue Hemi Cuda instead since I have yet to before.

His van already has that as stock, I’m thinking something as added protection starting under the chrome strip.

Lol, That bike sounds like my Traxxas Stampede there Randy Bought it second hand in February of 1999 and almost immediately started modifying it once I could afford to with one of the 1st mods being to replace the bronze bushing with ball bearings. At this point, the only part left from '99 is the bearings I installed in the original transmission case and swapped into the cases that have gone into the truck since then.....if I get the chance, I'm finally going to be replacing those and the hodge-podge of wheel bearings from the last 10+ years with all new bearings throught from a single kit this weekend! I jokingly compare the truck to the Paradoxes of "Ship of Theseus" and "My Grandfather's Axe" due to the lack of original parts on the truck and considerable mods it has been on the receiving end of since '99.

When I was looking for a body shop to do the sheetmetal work on my 200 after it was hit last February, I found a number of good posts on the shop I ended up taking it to, only complaint I found was that somebody felt that them wanting $5,000 to paint his car was way too much. I thought that sounded pretty decent if that was a a full repaint where they were also going to be doing some body and prep work as well as providing the materials to do so. Never thought about that with the back bumper of my 200, but that wouldn't be a bad idea, just in case as well as the back bumper of Dad's new Caravan, since he now uses the mobility scooter he bought for Mom years ago and between his age, the weight of the scooter, and the additional height of the Caravan over the Town and Country it replaced, it would help protect the paint on the vertical surface of the bumper!

Got the 1/18 rolling stock to try on my 1/20 AMX kit today, also got the Greenlight Black Bandit series ‘17 4dr JK that is a gift for a friend that bought a blacked out ‘16 4dr JK just before the Covid lockdown happened.

Got more R/C stuff today.....to bad the servo in my Stampede didn’t die until I had those wheels and tires almost here, been better off ordering them together........

Um

Got new wheels and tires for my Stampede today, one on road and one belted off road set, rims are designed so that the part that bolts to the truck is removable to adjust width as well as if you strip a plastic center out, they also have the center section pairs in aluminum, which costs as much as 1 pair of the belted off-road premounts

I wasn’t aware of that, but it was never mentioned when I brought it up at dealerships in the past.

Thar was the good part of the XJ and MJ Platforms, they used the AW4 transmissions from ‘87 or ‘88 through their ends (‘92 for the MJ and ‘01 for the XJ), Aisin and Borg-Warner built the Aisin versions to go in in the I-6 and V-8 RWD and 4wd Toyota’s (like the MkIII & MkIV Supra and Lexus LS400 for example!), do it was pretty well overbuilt for AMC’s last iteration of their I-6.

That hasn’t happened in about 15 years now, the ‘90 XJ Dad had was last tested mid decade before getting scrapped in ‘10 or ‘11. We finally scrapped mine after finding rust between what was left of the rockers and the uniframe rails (which were still fairly solid!) and standing ice and mold on the passenger side foot well. Probably should have given up when the fuel line connection rotted out at the firewall (the lines were still solid though!) in addition to the cooling system issues and rust but we didn’t until I realized is was becoming a health risk as well as a safety one.

Not here either, so long as emissions related codes don’t show up in the scan, they don’t concern themselves with it. My XJ passed it’s last test 2 years ago while it’s temp needle was pegged, airbag light on, no horn, no cruise control (bad clockspring in the column affected the last 3), questionable alternator, rockers rotting away, 7 year old and weather checked tires, etc, but still was good to go due to the code scan checking out ok.

I ended up ordering 2 sets of these, want to see how they scale out against both the 1/20 AMX and 1/16 General Lee kits from MPC!

Nevermind, found the 23” Chrome-T’s I had and they’re way too small, may look at some 1/18 after market wheels made to look like the wheels from a certain Grey and Black Shelby GT500 from 20 years ago.

We do something like that around Chicago, OBD1 vehicles don’t get tested unless they trade hands then OBD2 vehicles go in every couple years for testing, where all they do is plug into the OBD Port to make sure there aren’t issues then give you the all clear to register the car for the next couple years. My XJ even passed while overheating during it’s final test in 2018