Anglia105E
-
Posts
3,150 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by Anglia105E
-
Thanks Mark..... your clear explanation makes sense to me. Like the fire extinguisher also. David
-
Yes Gary, I too was very impressed by the amount of detail that has been packed into a small scale car like this. Even the door handles are separate parts. The road wheels do not turn, but then you wouldn't want this expensive model to roll off the table would you? Today I received the glazing units in the post, and these are the ones that were missing from the 1:43 scale station platform lamps, that I want to use with the LED lights you kindly sent me. I am hoping to run the light cable / wire through several street lamps as well as inside the Hooper building itself. David
-
Interesting to hear your comments Yordan...... piano, acoustic guitar, diorama building, Sheriff Deputy, classic vehicles..... you are indeed a dark horse, as we say! The 1:43 scale vehicles in my collection are all diecast and mostly from Oxford Diecast, although the 1930 Bentley 8 Litre is from Lansdowne Models, which are manufactured by Brooklin Models, and these are white metal. The other 1:43 vehicles are from IXO, ERTL, Whitebox, Corgi, BRUMM, Eaglemoss and Del Prado. Currently there are 15 vehicles in the collection. The 1:24 scale models that I use for the larger diorama are 50% diecast and 50% built kits, mostly from Franklin Mint, Danbury Mint, Welly, Wills Finecast, Original Classics, Revell, Tamiya, EMHAR, Minicraft, Hubley, Italeri, Monogram, Heller, Airfix and SMER. Currently there are 49 vehicles in the collection. For the figures I like Shapeways, but also ICM do some really nice figures from the Model T Ford era. Sometimes I pick up Corgi diecast figures which are very good, but rare. I hope you do eventually get to visit England and Australia..... certainly England is the centre of the World ( at least on our map anyway! ) David
-
The 1:43 scale Hooper & Co showrooms have three Rolls-Royce motor cars, also two Daimler motor cars and now the single Bentley motor car has arrived today. This is a Lansdowne Models white metal 1930 Bentley 8 Litre, which is one of only 125 made and it is very heavy, even in 1:43 scale. In fact it is heavier than the 1:24 scale MG K3 Magnette that I built. This model is of superb quality and it is highly accurate in the detail. The Bentley does photograph particularly well, and it is the star of the collection by some margin. David
-
Today I picked up this Lansdowne Models 1930 Bentley 8 Litre in 1:43 scale, which is a white metal model and Made in England. The model car is very heavy and highly accurate in the detail. It is a limited edition with only 125 models made. David
-
Maybe this is what I am missing? Stone Screens. ( sorry ) David
-
I just know this is going to be a stupid question on my part..... but Mark, why have your front wings / fenders got holes in them? Had a look through loads of photos of the 1:1 Caterham 7 Gulf cars and all of them have the smaller wings, like motorcycle mudguards. Only the Sprint version has the longer wings like your model has, and .....no holes in sight !!! ( I realise that you have built a race car, but I just don't get those holes? ) David
-
Thanks Yordan.... Progress is important at this stage. David
-
Cheers Pat, you are a gent.....
-
Thank you Pat..... the antique telephone is one of the many items that my wife picks up when she is visiting the local charity shops. She returns home with all sorts of surprises, one minute it could be an antique telephone, the next it could be a 1:18 scale Ferrari 250 TestaRossa on a mahogany wooden base, or even a Mamod steam engine ! Although my toolbox does not contain a router or a jigsaw, these are tools that I was considering investing in at some point. I am reading your explanation how to make the curved section of the coving from MDF, but somehow my brain doesn't work in such a way that I can follow your method..... could you put it into different words, or possibly a pencil sketch? Please excuse my lack of joinery skills ! David
-
There are now three levels of coving in place, with only the curved section to make. I shall have to give this curved section some serious thought, as it will not be easy to fabricate, given the ornate profile of it. All the straight pieces are of wood, but this curved piece might have to be clay or foamboard, not sure yet. The small gap that ran from the ground level at the outer corner all the way up to the roof has now been filled and sanded. The coving will be painted with white acrylic gesso, to blend in with the surrounding areas. My feeling is that this building is becoming stronger in construction, and also taking on the appearance of the real building, which is proving to be quite rewarding at this stage of the project. Hope you like it, and thanks for looking! David
-
I like the splash shield on your flywheel grinder, Pat and the thickness of the aluminium can metal is true to scale. David
-
Brilliant sign Yordan..... the Avery sheets look really useful and it is a coincidence that you should be using an aluminium drinks can for the material. During this past week I was doing exactly the same thing to make a burner tray for a Mamod steam engine. Your ' No Trespassing ' sign is very convincing and I would never have thought this was the first one that you produced. The flattened and sanded aluminium sheet could be used for all sorts of scratch building, because we tend to think of styrene, balsa, foam board and card as the obvious materials to use for our hobby. David
-
Thanks Pat and Yordan.... that was the first thought that crossed my mind when I saw the effect on the windows, which does look like raindrops. It is probably the light catching the dust! Here are a few photos of recent work on the diorama. One shows the difference in size between the Austin 7 and the Rolls-Royce Phantom III, while another photo shows the 1:43 scale bicycle which will look quite good once it is painted and chromed. Two further photos show the coving, which has gone into place quite nicely. Only today, and after 2 years constructing these two Hooper buildings, have I realised that the coving runs along the top edge of the roof level, so there is actually a low wall above the coving! The wall will finish off the proportions of the building nicely.... can't think why I never noticed this before. David
-
The bay window structure has all the sign writing done, the filler is sanded down and the white acrylic gesso has been applied. Nine white stripes for the zebra crossing have been marked out and painted on Bennet Street, ready to be blanked off for the laying down of asphalt. The dimensions of the two belisha beacons have been calculated and these will be scratch built shortly. The latest addition to the collection of 1:43 scale motor cars has arrived.... this 1937 Rolls-Royce Phantom III Sedanca de Ville, finished in yellow and black and produced as a model by Eaglemoss. The registration plate ( license plate ) will have to be changed, as AU1 belonged to the villain of the 1964 James Bond movie ' Goldfinger '. David
-
Gary and Pat..... thank you for the encouraging comments, which are always motivating and very welcome. As well as the ongoing work to the bay window structure, I have some O-gauge station platform lamps that will make very nice street lamps and they can be wired up with the LED lighting Gary. Also, I have some O-gauge bicycles that should paint up nicely if I can see what I am doing, not to mention a very steady hand! The sage green 1953 Ford Popular is a 1:43 scale Corgi diecast and in a couple of days a 1937 Rolls-Royce Phantom III Sedanca de Ville will be arriving. The Phantom is a yellow and black motor car as featured in the James Bond ' Goldfinger ' film ( movie ), but it could also be the the car that was featured in ' The Yellow Rolls-Royce ' movie that was filmed at the Hooper & Co showroom around the year of my scale model building. David
-
I don't think it is so much the size of the sign, Yordan..... my feeling is that the problem might be the font. Somehow I think the lettering should be a different type of font. You could try different lettering styles in Microsoft Word or similar, by inserting the same words into the same size sign? Then if you find one that works, you can burn it into the real sign with the soldering iron. David
-
The frontage of your building has a very realistic look to it now. Interesting that you have tried a vintage filter on the photo, which is a heavy sepia filter. I have tried sepia filters on some of my photos, and also I sometimes set my camera to black & white mode. The filtered photos can look really authentic for the period feel, but it's nice to be able to see the colour version also. Your diorama has some marvellous colours, which of course don't show up in the sepia version. I find that black & white photographs for my 1958 diorama, and now the 1959 diorama produce a nice effect because most of the photographs you see of the original buildings of that time would have been black & white in any case. You could experiment with a more subtle sepia filter that is not so heavy..... ? David
-
I like the frames and the panels on those upper windows. David
-
Fabricating the six window panels and fitting them into the bay window frame structure turned out to be quite difficult, as I expected it to be. Anyway, the windows are in place. The Royal crest has been added to the top of the upper bay window board and this will look better once the textured white acrylic gesso blends in around the crest and the filled joints. Some of these photos show the King George V Daimler Double-Six from inside the showrooms of the building. The figure of the man standing in front of the bay window gives some idea of the size and proportions of the structure. David
-
I was also intimidated by the airbrush at first, and I was scared to use it, but once you try it you will find it quite straightforward really. The airbrushed paint dries to a flat matt finish also. Airbrushing is an acquired skill and just needs a bit of practice to build up your confidence. You could airbrush kit parts but of course you cannot airbrush the diecast car, not without masking off everything which would be difficult. David
-
Yordan..... you were asking earlier how to make the paint finish of your diecast model vehicle flat..... I have two suggestions, one is that you could use clear matt varnish over the existing paint finish if you want to keep it the same colour, or you could use Revell Aqua Color to paint the model in any colour you like, which dries to a matt flat finish. ( I usually give the car body a coat of Yacht Varnish over the Revell Aqua Colour to produce a high gloss shine ). David
-
Yes Yordan, I noticed the title of your topic is ' Oak Barrels ' and the sign says ' Oak Barrel ' but I didn't want to criticise your spelling! That is why the wording of my comment was to use what I could see on the sign itself..... hoping you would notice the difference. David
-
The slatted roofing above the wall water fountain is a nice feature, especially the way it casts the shadows. I see the ' Oak Barrel Whiskey Club ' sign is ready to go up. David
-
Oh yes.... I am liking that door a lot, and the wall water fountain is extremely realistic. That is the sort of level I need to get to. When I look at both of my dioramas, there is very little in the way of weathering or ageing really. I tend to assemble some part of the building and paint it, but then I don't go on to add the kind of textures that you are using. This means that most of my diorama is going to look too ' new ', while I am aware that what is needed is for most of the scene to look OLD. You see, I can learn from you, and others like you. David
