PierreR89

I also think it would be fun to do. Will try to start a WIP when i begin on this but i usually forget it and remembers after it is done. I doubt you will learn anything from me, most likley the other way around But i dont think it will be happening this year as i have 4 others to complete + the BRBO truck that i have to find the time to start on soon. But once i have the time i atleast have the parts needed for it. I dont think i will be ordering anything for this as i am going to try to use as much as i can from the second kit. But that can change as i go along with the build.

Thanks for the reply. I am thinking of making it into a tridrive with twin steer on the front. I was thinking about cutting the frame where the crossmembers are to give it some strength. I was looking at my built K100 and saw that i thought that the front springs were longer then they are so having enough spacing between them and the wheels is not a problem. Should be able to just move the fueltanks back a bit and then keep the batterybox and airfilterhousing in the same position. I might aswell do it now since i bought a second K100 kit yesterday, it seems like they are starting to be hard to find now since there was only maybee 4-5 of the rereleased versions and the rest were old and to expensive. The k100 with the flat roof was there only one of on ebay and the others had the aerodyne roof. So if anyone wants to have that kit you should probably hurry up before they are gone again. I have to see what i do with the leftovers from the second kit.

So i got an idea while looking at Ebay earlier and saw the Kenworth K100 tri axle for sale (to pricey for me) and got thinking a little. I have already built the rereleased K100 and still have the K100 aerodyne to build and got an idea of making it in to a triaxle or 5axle with 3rears and 2 steeraxles. I could build it from the box but i am starting to feel that i am having to many "normal" trucks with rear duals and i want something different now (mostly to challenge my self a bit) If i decide to build my K100 aerodyne in to a 5 axle truck is there anything i have to think about when adding the second front axle to it exept mounting if far enough back so that if it was a real truck the springhangers can not touch eachother when the front suspension is moving? Adding a extra driveaxle and extending the frame to the rear and making it strong is easy just because that the frame has a inner frame that supports everything, i just have to think about where i cut them so the joint on both the inner and outer are a bit away from eachother. What is the easiest way to extend the front part of the frame and make it stong enough to be able to hold its own weight and not snap in half when moving it somewhere? The front part dont have a inner frame like the rear do to support it. I also have to make the driveshaft longer and somehow figure out how to build the linkage for the steeraxles so both can turn at the same time + moving some other parts on the outside of the frame to clear the wheels from the added axle. Something else i should think about if i do it or i will notice stuff that has to be moved or modified as i go along? I looked at those that part out kits on Ebay and added the price togheter and just for the axles, tires and frame + shipping it will cost more then a complete second kit to rob the parts from. What is the smartest thing to do? i obviosly want to get away as cheap as possible but with a new kit i would end up with a complete cab, engine, rearaxle that i have no use for. The small parts can be good to have

Still havent had time to even start on this.

What irked me today was my suburban or parts of it... Was going to replace the upper balljoints on both sides as they failed inspection. i did a qiuck look at them before i ordered the parts and it looked like they had been replaced before and i thought that i had gotten lucky for once. Factory upper balljoints are riveted in the controllarm and replacements are just attached with nuts and bolts instead of rivets. After i got the wheel off and cleaned of the dirt i was staring at 3 rivetheads... and i dont have an grinder to remove them, neither did my neighbours. Took and felt on the castlenut to see it it was moving anything at all before i continue and it was siezed up with rust so the only thing that moved when i used all my force was the suburban as i would have pulled it off the jackstand... Then i tried to replace the stabilizerlink and the nut for it came off surprisingly easy but then the thrubolt that goes inside a piece of pipe that holds the flanges for the bushings was siezed so it did not move at all even when i used a sledge to "convince" it to move.. Would have needed a grinder for that to.. I only tightend the nut again and pretended that i never was there... Then i tried to loosen one bolt for the towbar as it also failed inspection due to rust and i instantly snapped that bolt off... So now i have given up and am planning to let a garage work on those problems and then have it inspected. No point in me doing it without the right tools anyways.. I did manage to get my parkingcables attached to eachother again after i replaced the connector that holds them so atleast something worked out like i wanted it to.

This is a Jeep cherokee Orvis edition from the UK Look close at the hood of it and you can see 2 vents and at the tailgate there is a spoiler. Those parts do absolutley nothing, the vents are fake and taped on with 3M tape or something similar, the rear spolier is useless on something that is not a sportvehicle. There is a brakelight in it tho so its used for something. Left vents are for the orvis, right are for the 5.9. Bottom pic left for orvis, right for 5.9 notice that the orvis are missing the mounts for the screws to the driptray?

Probably different styles depending on what year you are looking at. Dont know when they changed it but honchos has 3 different grilles, like the wagoneer and cherokee had during those years. But remember, Honcho was just a trimlevel as chevy has for their trucks (silverado, scotsdale etc...) and jeeps more modern "base, laredo limited, pioneer" and some others. It is still based on either a J10, J20 truck And Jeep seemed to bee more like "customer can do what they want and add/remove anything they want to their truck regarding of what trim they choose" And a stepside honcho

Replaced the brakecalipers on my Suburban this weekend so that pleased me. Now only the discs and hubs to go and everything will be good as new at the front wheels. The pistons in the old calipers had sized up so bad that i could not get them to move even with a C-clamp... So in the junkpile they went untill i feel like rebuilding them (have all the parts for it) and keep them as spares for when the new calipers fail. Everything did not go as smooth as i expected it to.. When putting jackstands under the frame i dropped my phone and cracked the screen in 2 places and got glassplinters in my fingers when i was swiping to start spotify... Left front caliper on my ZJ locked up on me on my way home from work so i have to do this on that to if i want to use it. Fortunatley i did not throw away the old calipers for that when i replaced them and i have everything i need to rebuild them to so that will only cost me some time, i just need to find them first.... After breaking in the new pads i almost hit my head on the steeringwheel when i wanted to see how good they were when pressing hard on the brake. Atleast they are good enough to stop 9000 lbs of suburban (The brakediscs looks worse in the pics then they are)

Update: Done absolutley nothing on these builds as i have not had any time...

What browser are you using? I am using firefox and have added adblocker to it = adfree surfing even when watching youtube videos Only downside is some sites recocgninse that and shows you a popup with "you are using adblocker and this is why we have adds on here please turn it off" Beg about if being turned off and it will stay on forever.. I am sure other browswes have that addon to.

Me too, was looking at them a few days ago and then i looked here so i guess i can wait a bit more and then get one cheaper

Haha yes probably. Why have something that everyone else drives? I also think they are rather boring to drive now when i am used to US cars, the seats in us cars are much better to sit in for a long drive. 4 hour drive is nothing in my suburban but a 20minute drive in a mercedes kills my back completley. If i compare those seats to eachother the suburbans is like a armchair and the mercedes one is a parkbench covered with fabric... I have lost count on how many thumbs up i have got while driving my ZJ but that because i have 33"tires that sticks out from the wheelwells + 3" exhast with highflow cat and flowmaster so it it easy to tell it has a v8 in it The suburban everyone looks at because 1: its big, 2: i am the only one i this town that has one. 3: because of a k&n conefilter the turbo is very loud when it whissles while i am driving + even louder when the wastegate opens and dumps the pressure. It used to scare people when it did that before but now everyone knows it does that

No worries, i could have said it was a 4x4 in my first post. If i had asked something about that job on my C20 then you would have been a great help as it is a 2wd. Yeah we are forced to unless we shop parts from US and then do the work ourselfs. even with shipping and customs here the parts are still cheaper to get from the US then they are to get from Sweden Yes and now i have 7 of them 3 jeep XJ,s (89-90). 1 Jeep ZJ -93. 1 Chevrolet C20 -82. 1 Chevrolet K2500 -94 . 1 Suburban -97 For some reason the chevys are all diesel v8,s, c20 is a 6.2 and the others are both 6.5td. XJ,s are all 4.0 I6 engine and the ZJ is a 5.2 v8

Mine is a 4x4 so i have a hub that is non servicable exept replacing it. If you google "timken sp580302" you can see how the hubs looks like, i could maybe rebuild the old ones if i had the right tools for it, if i get them off in one piece i will keep them as spares as there are no play in them. The abs does not use a tone ring as the one you are describing, mine uses a magnetic strip on the bearing that the sensor reads. Can also be seen in one of the pics of that hub how the sensor sits + i am almost sure that my intermittent fault is caused by a splice that someone have made on the right side abs wire.

Prices for spareparts for cars here is what irks me... Especially if it is a non euro car.... One brakecaliper locked up on my suburban so i need to get new calipers + pads and just to be sure i ordered the brakehoses to for it to be prepared if it is a failed hose that is making the caliper lock and not release again. Anyway, price for those items 2 calipers, a set of brakepads and 2 brakehoses was about $600 if i got them from my local partsplace... Checked on rockauto and those parts with better quality was $270 with the shipping included... To save $330 i can let the suburban be parked at home and wait for those parts... I already have new brakediscs for the front laying athome but i need to get new wheelhubs for the front to so i can replace those to. Because it is a 8lug hub i need to remove it before i am able to replace the brakedisc and why not replace them with new while everything is off? + i have an intermittent absfault comming from the right side hub... Now trying to find those wheelhubs here in sweden was almost impossible as 8lug chevrolets are not that common here once i did find them they wanted about $900 for one wheelhub.. ( i need 2) And while i was looking for brakes i also checked if they had any wheelhubs, they did and they were the same ones as the factory used (and not noname stuff that falls apart after a week) for only $140 each. So somewhere between US and Sweden the ship or plane loaded with spareparts for US vehicles must get diverted and have every part replaced with an identical one, but one that is made out of gold instead...

Would be easier if you had posted a pic of the instructions... Anyway, found what those parts are in a online manual that i found. The tank (66-67) is the adblue tank the other part is the airdryer atleast the thing that is shaped as a cylider is the drier cartridge, the other thing that molded in to it, no idea could be a badly shaped valve.

Its not the right mirrorarms on it, i gave up on the ones that were supposed to be there (stupid things, way to many parts with almost 0 places for the glue to even attach to..) Any ideas on how to get them together? i have a road boss that have the same arms and now i dont have any left over arms from any other truck.. I think these are left over arms from the Peterbilt 352. The exhaust stack tilted to one side after i left it to let the glue dry and so did the hose tenna... Had to modify the mounting for the hood so it would close properly so instead of being able to tilt forward its removable. Never going to build one of these again with all the problems i had with it (more that i dont even want to list..)

I have never built that tanker before either so i am also curious of how it will turn out. Only thing that i am a little worried about on it is that Italeri split it up in top and bottom half so it can be a little work to clean up the seam beteween them. If you count the steps on the ladder the seam will be somewhere around the 4th step (counted from the top down) I have also decided what color the Scania will have, it will have a black frame and a silver metallic body. And if i have time i am thinking of making a bullbar to it that looks like this

This is what i am going to build, have not decided if its just going to be out of the box builds or i will add some aftermarket parts to them.

Here is mine.

I´m also in Scania T143 + topas heavy tank trailer.

Thanks, i wanted it to look like the box do. I think i came close to it atleast I am not that happy about how some decals turned out on it but it to late to fix that now.

There are a few small things left that i have not decided yet if i want to do or not. Was thinking of using some of the black vinyl hose to make it look like the lubrefiner and powersteering reservoair is connected to something. The orange is more darker in real and i left the hood in its 3 seperate pieces.

Did the last things on this the other night.

Looks like a hard working/well used bulldozer should look like.