PierreR89

A pic of your jig would be nice so i can try and make something similar if i fail with the other suggestions. Thanks for the offer but i think it would end up costing to much in shipping and i would probably end up having to pay customs for my own things (almost everything from us to sweden gets stopped by them..)

Here are some photos of the frame. Is it possible to save it with heat (water/heatgun) or its better to make/find a new one?

I see them now. Looks good.

Thanks.

Got inspired by looking at someone elses build of the papa truck here so i decided to build mine.

Okay, thanks i will try that first to se if it helps. How do i do it with hot water? do i heat them up with it and then tape them to something flat and let them sit like that untill they have cooled off again? I cant make new ones as there are no hobbyshops around where i live anymore, there was but internet shopping killed them.. Also this frame has the torsionbar supension molded in to them and i am not sure if i want to mess with that and trying to get everything lined up so it will go together like it is supposed to

So i was looking in a old kit i have and noticed that both framerails for that truck has warped badly, they look like a C now and obviously that wont work when i want to build that kit. What is the best way to make them straight again? I have fixed a few others before but they were not that bad and could be fixed by just bending them slightly to the other way.

Thanks.

Me bored and ebay is never a good thing. Got these 2 kits from there today: Now i just need to buy another "Papa truck" so i can turn it in to the "hideout truck" for the Bandit and after that i will have both dragtrucks and the transporters for them. (Already have superboss and papa truck)

Not related at all but my very firs modelkit that i ever built was a Aston martin db5 in 1/32 from airfix. I was 8-10 years old and my dad helped me and explaned how it worked that you had to look at the manual to se the partnumber, then find it among the other parts and glue it to the location the manual told you to. I still have it and it looks terrible

Started this last year and then i got bored with it because so many things are wrong with it to be a correct FH16, Engine, brakes and chassie is wrong. The trailer is italeris normal euro trailer used for every version they have so if you have seen my "queen of the wolves" trailer this is exactly the same exept for the decals. I think the decals was starting to get to old because they would barely let go of the backingpaper they were on, the "decal" on the trailerwalls and above the sunshade on the cab is just stickers. Thats why the Volvo emblem on the front is missing, they would simply not let go.

Have been building on this on and off for a while now and got it done a week or two ago. The most modern and wierd looking truck of all us truckmodels i have. It is from Moebius and after i all i have read about the instructions on this kit i did think that it cant be that bad, (i was wrong, very wrong ) Ended up using revells instructions for it to get it done. Cant decide if i want to use the roofspoiler or not so for now it is removable.

I think it was a few years ago it was out. I got lucky on ebay last year and got one at a reasonable price from ebays german site. (.de instead of .com) I did a quick look now and only saw one for sale that the seller only wanted bids for starting at $85... But if you go to their german site you will finde more at a more normal price but i dont know how much the shipping and customs will be for you.

Diamond Reo - Red Haha this is funny, i painted the engine in my Diamond Reo red because i read somewhere that the rebuilt engines were painted red. So i thought that and old truck like this must have had the engine rebuilt or replaced atleast once in its life. That + i am a little tired of the beige i have been painting on many engines now. I did not know about these lists until a few days ago. But it seems like i have got it right completley by accident

I also think it would be fun to do. Will try to start a WIP when i begin on this but i usually forget it and remembers after it is done. I doubt you will learn anything from me, most likley the other way around But i dont think it will be happening this year as i have 4 others to complete + the BRBO truck that i have to find the time to start on soon. But once i have the time i atleast have the parts needed for it. I dont think i will be ordering anything for this as i am going to try to use as much as i can from the second kit. But that can change as i go along with the build.

Thanks for the reply. I am thinking of making it into a tridrive with twin steer on the front. I was thinking about cutting the frame where the crossmembers are to give it some strength. I was looking at my built K100 and saw that i thought that the front springs were longer then they are so having enough spacing between them and the wheels is not a problem. Should be able to just move the fueltanks back a bit and then keep the batterybox and airfilterhousing in the same position. I might aswell do it now since i bought a second K100 kit yesterday, it seems like they are starting to be hard to find now since there was only maybee 4-5 of the rereleased versions and the rest were old and to expensive. The k100 with the flat roof was there only one of on ebay and the others had the aerodyne roof. So if anyone wants to have that kit you should probably hurry up before they are gone again. I have to see what i do with the leftovers from the second kit.

So i got an idea while looking at Ebay earlier and saw the Kenworth K100 tri axle for sale (to pricey for me) and got thinking a little. I have already built the rereleased K100 and still have the K100 aerodyne to build and got an idea of making it in to a triaxle or 5axle with 3rears and 2 steeraxles. I could build it from the box but i am starting to feel that i am having to many "normal" trucks with rear duals and i want something different now (mostly to challenge my self a bit) If i decide to build my K100 aerodyne in to a 5 axle truck is there anything i have to think about when adding the second front axle to it exept mounting if far enough back so that if it was a real truck the springhangers can not touch eachother when the front suspension is moving? Adding a extra driveaxle and extending the frame to the rear and making it strong is easy just because that the frame has a inner frame that supports everything, i just have to think about where i cut them so the joint on both the inner and outer are a bit away from eachother. What is the easiest way to extend the front part of the frame and make it stong enough to be able to hold its own weight and not snap in half when moving it somewhere? The front part dont have a inner frame like the rear do to support it. I also have to make the driveshaft longer and somehow figure out how to build the linkage for the steeraxles so both can turn at the same time + moving some other parts on the outside of the frame to clear the wheels from the added axle. Something else i should think about if i do it or i will notice stuff that has to be moved or modified as i go along? I looked at those that part out kits on Ebay and added the price togheter and just for the axles, tires and frame + shipping it will cost more then a complete second kit to rob the parts from. What is the smartest thing to do? i obviosly want to get away as cheap as possible but with a new kit i would end up with a complete cab, engine, rearaxle that i have no use for. The small parts can be good to have

Still havent had time to even start on this.

What irked me today was my suburban or parts of it... Was going to replace the upper balljoints on both sides as they failed inspection. i did a qiuck look at them before i ordered the parts and it looked like they had been replaced before and i thought that i had gotten lucky for once. Factory upper balljoints are riveted in the controllarm and replacements are just attached with nuts and bolts instead of rivets. After i got the wheel off and cleaned of the dirt i was staring at 3 rivetheads... and i dont have an grinder to remove them, neither did my neighbours. Took and felt on the castlenut to see it it was moving anything at all before i continue and it was siezed up with rust so the only thing that moved when i used all my force was the suburban as i would have pulled it off the jackstand... Then i tried to replace the stabilizerlink and the nut for it came off surprisingly easy but then the thrubolt that goes inside a piece of pipe that holds the flanges for the bushings was siezed so it did not move at all even when i used a sledge to "convince" it to move.. Would have needed a grinder for that to.. I only tightend the nut again and pretended that i never was there... Then i tried to loosen one bolt for the towbar as it also failed inspection due to rust and i instantly snapped that bolt off... So now i have given up and am planning to let a garage work on those problems and then have it inspected. No point in me doing it without the right tools anyways.. I did manage to get my parkingcables attached to eachother again after i replaced the connector that holds them so atleast something worked out like i wanted it to.

This is a Jeep cherokee Orvis edition from the UK Look close at the hood of it and you can see 2 vents and at the tailgate there is a spoiler. Those parts do absolutley nothing, the vents are fake and taped on with 3M tape or something similar, the rear spolier is useless on something that is not a sportvehicle. There is a brakelight in it tho so its used for something. Left vents are for the orvis, right are for the 5.9. Bottom pic left for orvis, right for 5.9 notice that the orvis are missing the mounts for the screws to the driptray?

Probably different styles depending on what year you are looking at. Dont know when they changed it but honchos has 3 different grilles, like the wagoneer and cherokee had during those years. But remember, Honcho was just a trimlevel as chevy has for their trucks (silverado, scotsdale etc...) and jeeps more modern "base, laredo limited, pioneer" and some others. It is still based on either a J10, J20 truck And Jeep seemed to bee more like "customer can do what they want and add/remove anything they want to their truck regarding of what trim they choose" And a stepside honcho

Replaced the brakecalipers on my Suburban this weekend so that pleased me. Now only the discs and hubs to go and everything will be good as new at the front wheels. The pistons in the old calipers had sized up so bad that i could not get them to move even with a C-clamp... So in the junkpile they went untill i feel like rebuilding them (have all the parts for it) and keep them as spares for when the new calipers fail. Everything did not go as smooth as i expected it to.. When putting jackstands under the frame i dropped my phone and cracked the screen in 2 places and got glassplinters in my fingers when i was swiping to start spotify... Left front caliper on my ZJ locked up on me on my way home from work so i have to do this on that to if i want to use it. Fortunatley i did not throw away the old calipers for that when i replaced them and i have everything i need to rebuild them to so that will only cost me some time, i just need to find them first.... After breaking in the new pads i almost hit my head on the steeringwheel when i wanted to see how good they were when pressing hard on the brake. Atleast they are good enough to stop 9000 lbs of suburban (The brakediscs looks worse in the pics then they are)

Update: Done absolutley nothing on these builds as i have not had any time...

What browser are you using? I am using firefox and have added adblocker to it = adfree surfing even when watching youtube videos Only downside is some sites recocgninse that and shows you a popup with "you are using adblocker and this is why we have adds on here please turn it off" Beg about if being turned off and it will stay on forever.. I am sure other browswes have that addon to.

Me too, was looking at them a few days ago and then i looked here so i guess i can wait a bit more and then get one cheaper