PierreR89

Haha yes probably. Why have something that everyone else drives? I also think they are rather boring to drive now when i am used to US cars, the seats in us cars are much better to sit in for a long drive. 4 hour drive is nothing in my suburban but a 20minute drive in a mercedes kills my back completley. If i compare those seats to eachother the suburbans is like a armchair and the mercedes one is a parkbench covered with fabric... I have lost count on how many thumbs up i have got while driving my ZJ but that because i have 33"tires that sticks out from the wheelwells + 3" exhast with highflow cat and flowmaster so it it easy to tell it has a v8 in it The suburban everyone looks at because 1: its big, 2: i am the only one i this town that has one. 3: because of a k&n conefilter the turbo is very loud when it whissles while i am driving + even louder when the wastegate opens and dumps the pressure. It used to scare people when it did that before but now everyone knows it does that

No worries, i could have said it was a 4x4 in my first post. If i had asked something about that job on my C20 then you would have been a great help as it is a 2wd. Yeah we are forced to unless we shop parts from US and then do the work ourselfs. even with shipping and customs here the parts are still cheaper to get from the US then they are to get from Sweden Yes and now i have 7 of them 3 jeep XJ,s (89-90). 1 Jeep ZJ -93. 1 Chevrolet C20 -82. 1 Chevrolet K2500 -94 . 1 Suburban -97 For some reason the chevys are all diesel v8,s, c20 is a 6.2 and the others are both 6.5td. XJ,s are all 4.0 I6 engine and the ZJ is a 5.2 v8

Mine is a 4x4 so i have a hub that is non servicable exept replacing it. If you google "timken sp580302" you can see how the hubs looks like, i could maybe rebuild the old ones if i had the right tools for it, if i get them off in one piece i will keep them as spares as there are no play in them. The abs does not use a tone ring as the one you are describing, mine uses a magnetic strip on the bearing that the sensor reads. Can also be seen in one of the pics of that hub how the sensor sits + i am almost sure that my intermittent fault is caused by a splice that someone have made on the right side abs wire.

Prices for spareparts for cars here is what irks me... Especially if it is a non euro car.... One brakecaliper locked up on my suburban so i need to get new calipers + pads and just to be sure i ordered the brakehoses to for it to be prepared if it is a failed hose that is making the caliper lock and not release again. Anyway, price for those items 2 calipers, a set of brakepads and 2 brakehoses was about $600 if i got them from my local partsplace... Checked on rockauto and those parts with better quality was $270 with the shipping included... To save $330 i can let the suburban be parked at home and wait for those parts... I already have new brakediscs for the front laying athome but i need to get new wheelhubs for the front to so i can replace those to. Because it is a 8lug hub i need to remove it before i am able to replace the brakedisc and why not replace them with new while everything is off? + i have an intermittent absfault comming from the right side hub... Now trying to find those wheelhubs here in sweden was almost impossible as 8lug chevrolets are not that common here once i did find them they wanted about $900 for one wheelhub.. ( i need 2) And while i was looking for brakes i also checked if they had any wheelhubs, they did and they were the same ones as the factory used (and not noname stuff that falls apart after a week) for only $140 each. So somewhere between US and Sweden the ship or plane loaded with spareparts for US vehicles must get diverted and have every part replaced with an identical one, but one that is made out of gold instead...

Would be easier if you had posted a pic of the instructions... Anyway, found what those parts are in a online manual that i found. The tank (66-67) is the adblue tank the other part is the airdryer atleast the thing that is shaped as a cylider is the drier cartridge, the other thing that molded in to it, no idea could be a badly shaped valve.

Its not the right mirrorarms on it, i gave up on the ones that were supposed to be there (stupid things, way to many parts with almost 0 places for the glue to even attach to..) Any ideas on how to get them together? i have a road boss that have the same arms and now i dont have any left over arms from any other truck.. I think these are left over arms from the Peterbilt 352. The exhaust stack tilted to one side after i left it to let the glue dry and so did the hose tenna... Had to modify the mounting for the hood so it would close properly so instead of being able to tilt forward its removable. Never going to build one of these again with all the problems i had with it (more that i dont even want to list..)

I have never built that tanker before either so i am also curious of how it will turn out. Only thing that i am a little worried about on it is that Italeri split it up in top and bottom half so it can be a little work to clean up the seam beteween them. If you count the steps on the ladder the seam will be somewhere around the 4th step (counted from the top down) I have also decided what color the Scania will have, it will have a black frame and a silver metallic body. And if i have time i am thinking of making a bullbar to it that looks like this

This is what i am going to build, have not decided if its just going to be out of the box builds or i will add some aftermarket parts to them.

Here is mine.

I´m also in Scania T143 + topas heavy tank trailer.

Thanks, i wanted it to look like the box do. I think i came close to it atleast I am not that happy about how some decals turned out on it but it to late to fix that now.

There are a few small things left that i have not decided yet if i want to do or not. Was thinking of using some of the black vinyl hose to make it look like the lubrefiner and powersteering reservoair is connected to something. The orange is more darker in real and i left the hood in its 3 seperate pieces.

Did the last things on this the other night.

Looks like a hard working/well used bulldozer should look like.

I have forgot most of the problems that i had with this kit but i will write about those i remember. MACK lettering on the front, there is nothing to go on for distance so you have to wing it. Mirror on the passengerside is all over the place just because i used the existing lockatingholes in the aircleaner, maybee have could got it straight if i cut of the locationpins on the arm mounts? The hood extensions on the passengerside on both the hood and cab, i thought i got them perfect (nothing to go on for exact location) but they interfere with eachother when opening/closing the hood. I think the front bumper came to high on the framerails so the hood hits it and will not open more then it does in one of the pic,s. The crossbrace above the engine that goes between the cab and ratiator was 1-2mm to short on one side so it just hangs in the air, i think it can be seen in one of the pic,s to. I aligned the cab to the hood after i had the hood mounted. The DM800 was a pain to try to align the cab and hood but that was mostly due to that it was an original ERTL kit and not a reissue so parts had warped over the years

Looks like they have updated the engine to look like a D16 engine this time and not the "lets mix every volvo engine mold we have in every kit and hope no one notice that it looks like a engine that never existed" engines that are in all other FH12/16 kits they have..

Was getting my Jeep ready to use during the winter for those days when it is snow on the ground and just when i was going to take it out for a testdrive i stepped on the brake and broke the rear left brakecylinder.... Brakefluid on the backingplate for the drum gave me a big hint that it broke... Worst part is, i replaced the brakeshoes in the rear on it just last year and have not drove more then 500km,s with it since then.... For those that dont know, brakefluid contaminates the frictionmaterial on the brakeshoes and it is almost impossible to get them clean as the material absorbs the brakefluid..

I looked in the kit i have with blue decals and i have that parts tree in mine. Must have been lucky and got a good kit when i bought it a few years ago.

Heller 1/43 Renault 4cv. Got it as a "gift" when i bought the 50 years of revell scania showtruck. I am never ever going to build it, i dont even want it in my house..

To me the enigne looks like it is the Cummins that is in the autocar a64b kit just beacuse of the exhaustmanifold without turbo.

Yeah it is very frustrating, infact so frustrating that this is the first vehicle i have just given up on and dont even care that it does it anymore. I have checked the connectors to and cleaned them + i did what Ace-Garageguy mention about disasemble the connectors. No trouble codes sets when it does this, this is also a pre obd system so to check troublecodes i have to count how many times the check engine light flashes. The pcm is in the enginebay so every wire from that to everything else is ok. I have not tested to simulate the problem, might try that. Yes i have jeeps own factory service manual for it and have tried to find that but for most of the electrical problems it just refers to the drb2 scan tool.. Yeah if also could talk to vehicles i would still be a mechanic and not building reachstackers where any problems is up to someone else to figure out, i am just hired to build them This is to old for obdII and have what Chrysler called "Chrysler 1" that is useless unless you have a drb2 scan tool. Without that you can just check what troublecodes there are by cycling the ignitionkey and then count how many times the check engine light flashes so thats not much help when it just displays 55= end of codes/no stored codes. Haha thanks, but this has been going on for about 4 years now so i have basically given up on it. I am at that point that i am thinking of modding the cruisecontrol system a bit so i can manually control it when i am standing still. Already have the wiring diagram for that + the relays and switches needed..

Want to try and diagnose a odd problem i have in my 93 ZJ 5.2? I can start with that it is an intermittent problem so it can run fine for months and then start to act up for a few days/weeks/months... What happens is that something in it decides that idling is just stupid so it will not idle at all when its cold or warm, i can force it to "idle" if i adjust the rpm,s with the accelerator. Untill it has warmed up i have to drive it with both feet, one on the accelerator to keep the engine running and one for braking + watching the rpm,s on the dash and also listen to the engine, this way of driving it can get very interesting sometimes... When it has warmed up enough so that it keeps idling it will do it at about 400rpm,s and not the normal 8-900 it usually stays at.. The distance i have to drive it for it to be able to idle by itself is never the same sometimes it can take 5-6km,s other times i have driven 60km,s and it still would not idle. Here is what i have done: Checked and tested every wire in the enginebay all checked out fine. Replaced every sensor on the engine and those that were aftermarket was replaced to mopar parts = still would not want to idle Replaced o2 sensor as it was failing = still would not want to idle Checked for vaccuumleaks, did not find any leaks at all. = still would not want to idle Normal service stuff + fuelinjectors (had one that got stuck open) = still would not want to idle Replaced pcm to a known good just to eliminate that. = still would not want to idle so the stock pcm got put back in again New battery and tested alternator = still would not want to idle Then as suddenly as it starts with the no idle thing it will work like nothing was ever wrong with it.. Oh i forgot, there is no factory or aftermarket security system in it. Ever had that problem on a car/ truck before?

Got these from Ebay. Scania T143: This trailer: And this:

Thanks. I dont know if i want it to be just a roadtractor or one that could be used offroad to. I know nothing about winchtrucks but i guess they were used mostly in offroad terrain? Then i can use the frame for the superliner for this when i start building it so i get some use out of that kit exept just collecting dust.. It will still only be me and those here that knows it is not the right frame for the truck. Going by how italeri makes their truck kits no one that just looks at it will notice anything even if they look at the engine unless they are told that part x,y,z are wrong.. Their modern volvo kits has nothing correct exept the shape of the cab and the scanias had the correct engine up untill they started the 4 series where scania used a different engine. I will try to remember to start a buildthread when i get to that point but i cant promise anything as i often get halfway done before i think about doing a buildthread on most of my builds and then i see no point in it Thanks for that link, i will check it out later.

Thanks for the info. Great that the 361 was one of the models offerd with a v12 just beacuse that was the kit i like the most for some reason of those 3 i listed. I suspected that the hood opend like that but i did not know that fenders were able to swing out to get better access to the engine, it might take some work to get it functional but when i start on this it is not something that will be done in about 2-3 days as the others i have built. To scratchbuild parts is no problems and i have alot of left over parts from other kits that i have built so some parts i might not have to make myself. Guess i could look for a used kit or partskit for a DM600 that still have the frame in it, the only partskit i have is the Italeri american superliner (postoffice did a nice number on it when they shipped it and the cab and hood is crushed and not useable..) But that frame will probably not work as it is not even the right frame for a mack superliner.