89AKurt

Thanks for going to this effort!

Thank you very much! If I had picked one of the many pink nail polish colors, I would have to agree. The dash has real plywood, I got this Scale Equipment Ltd. decal some time ago that is almost a perfect match. But I didn't use as a decal, instead glued on with Testors canopy glue. Made paper patterns first. Since my fingers had rubbed off some of the plating on the center hub, and the back wasn't plated, painted the wheels with Alclad polished aluminum. The tires have become somewhat hard and were a loose fit, glued on with canopy glue. I thought about using the Porsche 904 left-over parts gas cap. Made the license plate mount. Took most of the day to get just the interior done. The photo-etch toggle switch bezels were enough to drive me nuts, lost one, so I made the last one a little different. The Ken's carpet had zero adhesive, so I peeled off the backing and glued in with the canopy glue. Gauges are from a decal sheet I found online. Made the shifter part, still need to make the tiny shift lever or use the kit part. Added aluminum tape door trim. Glued on the Ferrari center caps. Got the teeny tiny decals on the brake calipers, horse on the plenum, flags on the ash tray. It was 4:30 when I decided that it was stupid to try and finish tonight, and take tools to GSL and finish in the motel room, so I gave up. Haven't even started packing yet, and needed to do a load of laundry, and eat, and inventory models for the swap meet. So this is how far I got. There should be mesh in the hood intake, but I like how you can see the engine, but it shows I got it off center. I know it's going to be a PITA to get all that photo-etch on, stupid to rush it. Getting the windows in will be fun. Still need to make turn signal lights up front, back-up lights, side lights (there are tiny resin parts, but I don't know), reflectors with 2 photo-etch rings each, the cool grill with an aluminum surround, retractable antenna (there is no photo-etch radio face), B-pillar photo-etch rings, glue the wood rims onto the steering wheel, intake tubes, radiator hoses, seat belts, sun visors, wet-sand and polish the body, find the MONGREL license plate used on another Ferrari resto-rod, put in the fire extinguisher that didn't go in the GSL Model A, more photo-etch and the Crazy Modeler script, strip and improve the bumpers. Yea, I was going to get all that done in 24 hours, with the 9 hour drive, and registration, right....... ??

and allergies don't

Big day, body got painted! But first, needed to make the hood hinge and prop rod. The hinge is 100 year old pocket watch fusee chain, scribed a groove in the hood to glue it into. Filed a groove in the steel lip, made a block with a hole, so when I do the final install I just need to glue the chain in there. The "latch" is a rare-earth magnet glued at the lip, steel plate recessed into the hood. The prop rod is inserted into an aluminum plate, wire insulation is used to hold the wire in place, yet move freely. Another aluminum plate part is glued to the hood, with a hole for the wire to go in. Then I could paint the body! This Finger Paints nail 'polish' seems to be high quality, the pearl is extremely fine, and it laid down well with about 50% thinner. Put in the pickup to cure. I made sure the sun didn't hit it. Made the chrome parts, starting with the door mirror. It's Corain®, chucked into the drill press. Roughed out using the Dremel, then used a small file and sanding sticks, finished with fine steel wool. Then I used the Dremel again to almost cut off. Before cutting off, drilled the hole for the wire. Flattened the mirror face with a rough sanding stick to get the angle. The standoff is plastic scrap, drilled all the way through for the wire. I make door handles this way, mirror image, then saw apart. Drilled for the wire, which I cut long so they can be held. Been using the spoon to test, and I mean with a thick coat, to see if there would be any negative reaction, and also can touch and hold to determine if the paint is cured enough. Sprayed Splash paints 1K clear. I use this tea ball to wash tiny parts before painting. Testors semi-gloss black. I looked at doing tan, brown or dark red, but I noticed the arm rests, dash, center counsel are always black, and I didn't care to do a bunch of masking. Made a holding jig for the dash at the last minute, screwed through a steel plate into the back of the resin block part, so I shouldn't screw up the paint when detailing it. Also sprayed the AK Interactive black base. Took a shower, to give this time to cure. Sprayed the AK Interactive chrome. I'm now pissed off, should coulda woulda sprayed primer on the bumpers, would have noticed all the flaws. For some reason it didn't come out as good as before. I could strip and start over, but in 2 days I will be driving to SLC. My resin copy gas cap really sucks too, should probably turn a Corian cap. Oh well..... ?

attorney with balls

Thanks! Your image didn't show up, but I searched and found what you're talking about. I had done the red stripe detail on this 275 GTS NART, but the sticker undid itself, so I removed it.

I've seen others mention such a primer. Does it come in cans, or in a spray can where you puncture the hardener before using? If there were details such as grills or mesh, wouldn't those get filled too? Like I said earlier, someone had this color, and it looked good to me. At least it's not Pepto Bismo pink. It's also part of the utter sacrilege that I'm doing. Wet-sanded the Tamiya primer first thing today. Then sprayed a second coat. Then put in the pickup cab. Sprayed the brake calipers. Note to self, mask the white plastic area so the black paint does not make it more difficult to get an even shade!!!! ? How I do carbon brake disks, paint flat black, then a soft pencil lead "drawn" on sideways (not point down). Engine assembly. Something I did not plan on, the fuel injection part is glued to the plenum (pin pointing to), which I will make out of aluminum rod, needed to make an aluminum plate locator thingie. This kit is woven together. I made it more difficult with the modifications, such as having to get the shock, half shaft, hub, and A-arm glued together at once. Otherwise, Revell did a good job engineering this kit. The mufflers were fun too, since I cut the pipe during the narrowing of the chassis. Going to keep the aero belly pans removable. Brush painted the oil filters, and the silver fins on the top of the engine. I have used wine bottle foil before, some brands are better than others, there are all plastic covers that suck, and I haven't looked for real lead caps, I should hunt for that. This one worked nicely, using Cedar sticks. I cut the piece large, then after getting close to shape, trimmed with scissors, worked a little more, trim until I got it. After they were glued on, removed the tub and gooped glue and baking soda underneath. Unsure how I'm going to finish this area, another thing to think about when going to sleep. A favorite detail I love to do, exhaust tips. ? Like some other things on this particular build, wasn't sure how I was going to do it, until it was assembled. Solder used for the pipe, cleaned up with steel wool, won't paint, and it bent easily. Stainless steel tubing tips, cut and finished with the Dremel cut-off disk. Cut notches in the body. Also had to grind out the inside of the body more (it's been like carving a Jack-o-lantern). Something that I'm glad I did, was use screws to hold the interior in the body. I had the body on the paint stand, in the pickup cab, the body got spread out a bit, so having positive mounting points is the key with such a project. I would like to wet-sand the body tonight, but I better let it cure a few more hours.

I know right? Nobody is more crazy to stitch a full chassis under this either. ?

Thank you for the nice comment! Thank you too, glad my contribution is helping others. I was in beast mode today, other than eating and the other usual life things, all I did was work on this project, almost seeing double vision tonight (12:20AM). Dry-sanded the first coat. Removed the last of the window flashing, need to be very careful now! Then wet-sanded. Sprayed Splash paints 2K primer. Second time I have used it, and it still felt like WHAT HAVE I DONE because it goes on so ugly and rough, like it's the worst paint I could use. But it cures hard quickly, and sands really nice. Fresh, set in the cab of the pickup after taking pictures on the hood. Now it's work on the chassis. Think I found where it was binding, so felt like I could refine some areas. It's hard to tell, but there a many scrap pieces that are glued here and there to fill gaps, and create location "pins". Shortened the steering rack part, by about 8MM, because I had narrowed the track. I skipped taking a picture of the parts laid out on a table to show what is kit and what is scratch-built, because some parts still aren't made, and that was at least an hour of limited time. Model Master flat black, and Testors semi gloss black. Since the assembly is weird, major sub assemblies could get an all around coverage. So while the body and chassis were curing, on to the interior! Since I used copper wire to secure the body to the paint stand, because it fell off during the first coat, I thought huh, instead of solder wire that looks good. Ran it through steel wool to remove the tarnish and give the glue some roughness. Sanded the corner of the seat with rough grit. I enjoy doing this detail, would add it to any seat if it would look good. There are holes in the bottle cap, screwed into the seat and also have a lock washer. What a disaster area my bench is! Noticed there was a sunset, I usually go for a walk if it looks like one will happen, but not tonight. Stepped out back to take this. The last thing I did before putting it away last year, was work on the steering wheel. Made a paddle shifter unit, out of polished aluminum plate, punched out plastic disks, and real wood to go with the Nardi rim. Turned an aluminum horn button, using various old sanding sticks, then steel wool, then emory cloth, and then polish. Used the Dremel cut-off disk and a file, to work down the back about 90% of the way, then cut off with the Xacto blade. Back to the body after eating last nights leftovers, wet-sanded the primer. If I could avoid it, I would, but this paint does wet-sand nice. Hood has not been done yet. I have been using the shop air hose to dry off parts, instead of using a paper towel. It has reduced lint, and static charge. Just before the next coat. Tamiya white primer. Been slathering on each paint on a spoon, first to test compatibility, but also wanted to see what this color looked like. To dream the impossible dream, still finding bubbles. ? Here you can see the recess for the reflectors, and the B-pillar vent hole. One more color before calling it a long but enjoyable day.

Thank you! Last night, first time I put the seats into the cockpit, oh great, they need to be narrowed. I'm planning to add piping. Had a model club meeting this morning, so lost a few hours. First paint, Splash paints surfacer. This is when I saw there are a bunch in bubbles in some areas, which is the purpose of this first coat. I guess all the sanding cut down into the bubbles. Have a bunch of fine tuning to do. Maybe I shouldn't zoom in. ? Started on painting parts. Splash paints aluminum. Later I sprayed Model Master aluminum. Double checked photos of the 575M Superamerica, which has the top of the engine red, but on the 'lower level' 575M the valve covers are red. The instructions show wrong colors on some parts too. I just wanted to make sure these parts cure awhile before handling later. Engine bay, the firewall in 0.1" sheet styrene, other parts were offcuts. Made a simple brake master cylinder reservoir. Hacked up parts and put in position. Because this kit goes together funny, I had to make a sub assembly. It's also being a little ___?___ with not going together, only when I squeeze does it look right, I can't figure out what needs adjustment. Tomorrow I need to make door handles and door mirror, then I can paint the bumpers, headlights and gas cap chrome. Interior, need a steering column, paddle shifters (with the classic Nardi steering wheel should be incongruous) and auto shifter (which means not using the cool classic gated shifter), pedals will be the 575M, should research the parking brake. Filling the gaps in back are going to be a trick. I'll be lucky to get the body done to the point of primer.

I was afraid of drilling a fingertip, or having the part the size of a bead go flying out of the pearl tweezers. So I used the Dremel with a small bit to create a recess in each block, and clamped down hard with the clamp. Anyone going to GSL will see what that part is.

in dawg's clothing

Thank you for checking in! I dropped the ball on this build, and then was not doing anything on the forum, so it just got buried. Thank you. It would be done if I didn't *have to* put the chassis under it. Thank you! Fingers crossed. Late last night I got the fender vents in, that took an hour. Last night I couldn't handle that the body was still warped, the interior really showed it. Thought I fixed it last year, but it must have moved back. First ting done today, was run hot water over the body. This time I made the plywood buck. Checked both sides with the square. Something I did since I was at the sink, was to wet-sand the body, some areas really needed it. Forgot to say earlier that I scribed the panels lines with the Tamiya scriber. Added more screws, one at the back, 2 in front. Can't allow any sloppy fit, since the following parts need to not interfere. Have the stance established. But my OCD isn't liking the fender edges. I had worked flares under hot water last year, but have already broken the resin in a couple spots. Drew concentric circles with a circle template on 0.04" styrene, cut out with the hot-wire. Sanded the resin flares flush, and the disk edge. Happened that it's half a circle. Roughed the shape with the Dremel. First pass with a big grit sanding stick. Took advantage of the sun shining in, it shows the profile and process so much better than lights. Next up were the aero belly pans. The rear needed an extension, very easy. The front has an spoiler added, with 0.04" styrene. This is deeper than planned, I've been making pieces bigger, because cutting/sanding down to shape is better than adding to fix a mistake. Final size, that matches the profile of the pan. The original car part for comparison, which is an awkward design. Since the track was narrowed, need to cut into the pan so the steering wheels have clearance. Engine bay, this is going to be tough!

Something that I do when wrecking two kits together, use screws to assemble major assemblies. Had the interior glued onto the body with Tacky glue, now it was time to make the tabs so it would always go back into the same position. Nothing I hate more is having problems of fitting after painting. Pieces from the Studejimmy project were used, lots of superglue and baking soda used. The chassis just wasn't mating to the body and staying in place, added 2 screws in the middle. Bumpers had no locating tabs, used shirt pins, one per bumper should be good enough. Opened up the windows but left material at the greenhouse pillars, afraid of breaking them. Taillights are cast in clear resin, there are reflector lenses cast in red which I'm not using, pet peeve is having to paint taillights. Again no location, other than the giant reflector holes which I filled with superglue/baking soda. Went off photos, carved a recess using chisel tools, which I recently got, sure helps to have quality tools. Had to shape the back of the lenses to even thickness, that was fun, and yes they are in place. Headlights are from the Subaru Impreza project, last of the rally lights. I should round the edge of the headlight rings, but I kind of like the updated look that's very subtle. I refined the profile of the fenders to drop down, they were like a '57 T-bird. Worked on the exhaust, which won't really be seen if the aero pans stay in place. Next body parts to glue on are the fender vents. I better work on the classic grill, it's photo-etch parts, but no surround. Then I can start painting the body. I have a bunch of work to do in the engine bay. The 575 has lots of details, that I plan to cut apart. Need to build the sides and firewall. The radiator fit without much modification, but the air cleaners are another story.

Since all I have is Hobby Lobby and Michaels, I need to get my jollies going to the beauty supply store, to get pretty paint, and sanding sticks that last longer than others.

Home base after a vacation always looks appealing, then cabin fever kicks in and the cycle resumes.

I looked through the other thread, saw that hot primer crazes the plastic. I saw that Spot Model was selling red paint that has a texture, for the Testa Rosa valve covers.

Internet quit yesterday afternoon, when I got around to calling CenturyLink last evening, the computer runaround told me to call during business hours. Today still not working, computer runaround said it was out, would be running by 6:45 PM. Anyway, gave me incentive to work on a model.

Just saw this, will be following. The wheels really work well. So how do you craze the paint, the dash would look perfect with that texture.

I built one last century, forgot how it went together, other than the headlights were a pain, and don't move easily. It was also when Testors cement was the only glue, so it melted the nose where the headlight shaft is. They are nice kits, but intimidating, must be why I have so many in the stash still. Coming along very well. I also wish we could buy just the tires, they are the best.

after binge drinking

Welcome to the forum. Love this! Did the kit come with gravel tires, and photo-etch bonnet pins? You add the carbon-fiber decals?

Very nice, cool subjects, especially the Stutz.

This has been sitting in the box a little more than a year. Thought I would try to finish before the GSL show, 8 days to work on it, slim chance but why not try? First thing to do was reorient myself to wonder why I was doing this crazy project. I was having a problem with the chassis being cut up, and breaking apart at tenuous connections. Added brass wire, continuous front to back, guesstimated elevation front and back, so the middle is really glued on. I did have to adjust after first gluing. Went to the beauty supply shop, to get sanding sticks and paint. I was surprised how sparse their nail 'polish' stock was, but found a color close to the one I got a ride in when I was a teen. I didn't want to ruin the hood from the donor kit, just I case I wanted to build a Pro Stock Ferrari or something. So I vacuum-formed a new one. First try was okay, second was a disaster, third was good enough. Glued the two together, after cutting the center of the inner panel out. Glued steel below the windshield to help strengthen the cowl, and plastic sheet at the front for a jamb. Other than the modern wheels, this will be the only indication something is different. There will be an air dam, but it will be flat black.

Dredging up this build from almost 4 years ago..... Since I finished, got some stainless steel tubing, so that was the excuse to replace the pitot tube that is (barely) seen in the last picture above. I had knocked it off, so I needed to fix it. This time, there is wire in the tube so it wouldn't collapse when bent. Also added kit boxes on the passenger seat.