my80malibu

Scale finishes is a good product.

I guess now they can kill her for running away.

Last update I read was no mechanical issue found that would have contributed to the accident. Police are still holding off on speed report until Porsche engineers have time to examine black boxes.

On E-Bay there is a dealer Called Go-Hobbies selling Airbrush kits with compressor, and AB for about the price you are willing to spend, More or less depending on what you want.

Admittidly I dont know that much about that car. However the engine looks like a Cadillac block, and I think they only have 3 exhaust ports with the center relieving two cylinders,

Good looking work. I could see one of those built slammed with 20" wheels, and it being called the Bad Santa. But this looks good too.

This is what I wanted to convey, the idea that If we can get an AB setup for under a hundred dollars. For someone who is just beginning in the hobby. Would it work? I dont have access to one of these cosmetic/tanning AB's, I have a Badger 200, and a MAC double action, along with a NEO. None of them were Expensive until you factored in the cost of the Compressor. Which was close to a hundred dollars on it's own. Brett Barrow, Generally, they're gravity-feed with very small paint reservoirs. Nothing really different from normal airbrushes internally, they're just marketed for cosmetics. You'd probably have to stop and refill the reservoir several times to paint a body. Most of them come with a low pressure/low volume compressor that's based on a fish-tank pump (same as cake-decorating airbrushes). Not really strong enough to move the volume of air and paint we need to paint models, even if you use the "Norbie Method" with low pressure (~10-15 psi) they still don't put out enough volume of air. My rule has always been to buy name-brand airbrushes, because you know you can get parts for them. I've owned pretty much every major brand of airbrush (Iwata, Badger, Paasche, Aztek, et al.) and I don't recommend one brand over the other, they all work fine if you clean them and take care of them and learn each one's idiosyncrasies. They'll all break, and they'll all need parts replaced sooner or later. Brett has brought up a very good point in that, possibly the compressors used in Cosmetic AB's do not produce enough air volume. That may be true, however I have seen cosmetic brushes with both large and small resevoir cups

I dont think they are available at Home depot, they are commonly used in electronic computer line wiring applications.

What does that have to do with this subject? I am asking about airbrushes. To be used for painting a plastic model. Not for applying a Tan on a plastic model.

There are quite a few Cosmetic AB's advertised on Auction, and other list sites, for low money. Would they work for what we do here?

Good point, tell that to those on there way to thier 3rd job.

X3

Amazing!

I liked it! and I don't even like Nascar.

I have had very positive results with the Scalefinishes primer, I have used the gray, and would rate it better than Plasticote. Although Plasticote, and Duplicolor are more plentiful in my area. I don't remember what Jameston sells the primer for. You could consider ordering paints, and asking for a small sample. He may be open to that. I am lucky in the fact, that Jameston sells at modeling contests here in the Valley, so I get to deal directly with him, and the paints are excellent.

One tin Soldier Rides away.

Very sharp car. I like the Stance.

Looks fantastic.

Love the Engine but those carbs are Horrendous

Look at who owns these check into cash places, you might find a large T-Bag.

In 1994 GM had most of the computer bugs worked out, that had caused them issues in the mid to late eighties. The PCM used in a 94 is a lot more robust computer than before. Charlie do you have the Federal Ignition Package?. Most of the Caprices, that I worked on back in 94 had the distributor cap behind the water pump, these were Police cars. 5.0L with LT 1 ignition system. Does your car have that type, or does it have a actual distributor at the rear? The proble you have been describing sounds eerily similar to one that I had, it turned out to be a Pickup coil in the distributor. Very easy to test, those wires become corroded at the base where they go into the ciruit, they dont always brake but cause a lot of headache. You would need to OHM out the wires and compare it with the spec, in a repair manual like the ones you get at the parts store. The Early computers you could take out of the mounting fixture, hold it in your hands, and while the car was running you could gently squeeze the case, it would sometimes change the way a vehicle would run like having a bad connection. I found one this way in a buick century it also had intermittant issues, like No AC, no Hard code was found, but several soft codes were stored.

Who? Now I understand Thanks for showing me.

You could try using a method which applies only a small amount of Super glue. Like applying it with a toothpick, you dont need a lot of glue to hold a valve cover, or oil pan on. Once you have your surface prepped for adhesive. if your gluing engines IMHO, it is best to use the Gel Superglue, it offers more working time,fill gaps, and has less chemical burn off, which could be the cause of your Chrome fogging situation.

Hip Hop Hamsters driving a Kia

Read last night on OMG that servalance video only shows the Porsche on the road with no other cars involved. This with a timeline account of events from other witnesses from about 3pm until the firemen arrived.