Lyle Willits

Scribe equally spaced “scratches†into a small diameter aluminum tubing to represent piano hinge segments. Cut the tubing to exact length of the hood. Cut the tube in half and glue a stiff piece of wire inside on ONE half of the tube. Glue the tubes to each half of the hood using CA glue or epoxy. Slide the two halves together. The hood top will now flip up on either side. Align a hood SIDE with the hood top and “hinge†it using a strip of masking tape. The small portion of the tape that may show can be painted with steel colored paint to represent a metal hinge. Obviously, if you want, you can make actual working metal hinges for the hood sides. Ta-da This may not be high tech enough for a contest, like Greater Salt Lake, but it makes for a nice display at NNL type shows.

Many more pics: http://public.fotki.com/mamaprez/car-shows...led-scene-east/

ONE? Rookie !

Just paint them with a brush and Polly Scale white. No brush marks at all. Been doing it for many many years.

'64 through '67 chassis will not work. Chassis and wheel bases changed in '68 and remained until the '72 models.

The hood from the OLD AMT '36 worked (yellow plastic and box art - roadster or coupe) but, oddly enough, the hood SIDES from that kit wouldn't fit. I'm using the hood sides from a Dick Tracy reissued kit but still had to add some plastic to the edges of those pieces. Basically, I had to play with all these pieces to make them fit properly.

Before I so rudely interupted myself with all those '57 Chevys, I was working on this '36 Ford. Flintstone body, wheels from,,,,uh,,,,,,caps from AMT '53 Ford pickup, old AccuPro photoetched grille painted black (AccuPro is long out of business but The Model Car Garage makes the same photoetched grille.) Keeping the frame and chassis pretty much stock because I don't feel like modifying everything and besides, I don't display my models upside down. Using the flathead from a Revell '32 sedan but I grafted the "lump" of a transmission from the original AMT '36 Ford kit, again, because I didn't want to modify the frame. Split a front seat, modified a second seat for the rear. scratchbuilt the side panels, arm rests, cranks and handles. color scheme will be just like the Dave Lindsay photo below.

Slicks came from an original AMT '28 Model A sedan kit.

Who's the bubble-belly, white-haired guy,,,,,,,,,,,,,,oh,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,it's me. For a second there, I thought I was still 30 and could walk around the entire Fairgrounds for 8 hours without stopping.

This is the last year for the traditional 1949 cut off year. Beginning in 2010, cars from 1980 and older will be admitted to all NSRA events. LOTS of pics,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, http://public.fotki.com/mamaprez/car-shows...t-rod-nats-eas/

Rained all day Friday at the Street Rod Nats East in York, Pa. The rest of the weekend is going to be clear and DRY, so I'll be back there all day Sunday,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,stay tuned. http://public.fotki.com/mamaprez/car-shows...-rod-nats-east/

THANKS VERY MUCH.

DAVE LINDSAY PHOTO I've seen these wheels on some old style rods for the past 4-5 years. I made a 25th scale wheel VERY close to these (pictured) by combining the center section of a '36 Ford wheel with outer portion of a '37 Ford pickup wheel. Does anyone know what these 1:1 wheels are from? Are they recent "old style" aftermarket wheels? Are they actual stock Ford wheels from a different year? Thanks in advance.

Cool pics. Thanks Tom.

Vettes and Camaros, including a 2010 Camaro. http://public.fotki.com/mamaprez/car-shows...ettes--camaros/

I've used them on almost every model I've built,,,,,for the past 30 years. Be sure to use Duplicolor sandable primer FIRST.

That's beautiful. I wanna see this one at the next MAMA meeting.

Thanks Drew. Great pics.

My luck is still holding out after all these years. Whenever I scratchbuild something or do a major conversion of a kit, the darned thing comes out in plastic a few months later. Sometime, I'll tell you about the 3 months I spent and the 37 individual cuts I made in an AMT '57 Chevy to exactly duplicate the Chezoom, even scratchbuilt the wheels, and then,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

I just want to point out one correction. Norm was backed up on orders LAST YEAR, due to various reasons. Norm is back to normal on shipping parts. Most people get their parts within one to two weeks. You can call, as noted or email: ReplMinCoMd@aol.com

I remember building the AMT double dragster kit at least45 years ago, but this is a first since then. Gasser built from the Revell 150 (Black Widow) kit. Scratchbuilt the lower front splash pan. Front end uses the gasser parts from the AMT '55 Nomad. Bob Dudek "Moon" tank. Hood "gunsites" are filled. Hardest part was cutting away the upper grille surround end pieces from the one-piece grille assembly. Pie crust M&H slicks and drilled rear bumper. Decals are from just about everywhere. Found "Lyles" on a Slixx decal sheet and HAD to buy it, of course. Seat belts, extra gauges and a Hurst T-handle made from bits of plastic. Big Block Chevy from an AMT '65 Chevy II funny car kit, fully plumbed and wired. This decal is nose art for some plane (which I know NOTHING about). The decal came on a sheet in an IPMS magazine. Up, up and away,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks for looking.

Very low turn out this month due to our NNL just last Saturday. Only about 25 members today. More stuff here: http://public.fotki.com/mamaprez/model-clu...eeting-5162009/

It has Pontiac seats ( not seat COVERS) becaus that's what the guy had available to him when he built the car.

Go to any hardware store, home builders store, electronic supply store, etc. and buy whatever size wire you want.

Thanks Bill. And thanks also, for calling our show by it's real name.