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fiatboy

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Everything posted by fiatboy

  1. When I shake the bottle it gets 'foamy'.
  2. Is the engine included a Big Block? I am building '66 Olds Toronado resin by Speed City Resin. The Olds 442 W30 has a nice seperate frame from the floor-board, and of course the V8 engine.
  3. Can I thin it with water? I think mine has gotten too thick. Thanks
  4. Hi Mike999. You mentioned that you also tried Tamiya "Surface Putty" as well as the "Quick Type" Tamiya. Is the Tamiya "Surface Putty" similar to "Bondo glazing spot putty"? Is the Tamiya Surface Putty a one-step material? Is the Bondo glazing spot putty also one-step? Thanks
  5. I am building a resin kit. There is a big gap between the donor kit dash and the cowl with the vents and w. wipers. So I'll be using a big lump of it. Slow drying time I think is a must. If I end up with a coarse surface, I should be able to apply some spot putty like Bondo which I think is 1 part; or Tamiya. You guys are great. Thanks
  6. Hi Bill.  I don't know if you got my last message.  I need the interior parts (I've come up with some front seats, although).  So If you have the main parts of the front suspension, not the chassis plate, and the leaf springs and rear axle, that would be great.  Thanks

  7. Hello. I am building an incomplete kit of the 'General Lee'. The axle looks pretty 'weak'. Where can I get something better? Thanks
  8. Hi Khils.  Those pieces pictured are what I need.  But you can keep the steering wheel and chrome.  PM me please.

  9. I've worked with Milliput and it took a nice long time to set-up, maybe 25 minutes. Anybody work with Tamiya 2-part putty? How long to set up, approximately? Thanks
  10. How does one use embossing powder? I guess it works better than 'flocking'. Thanks
  11. I have heard that you can use Spaz Stix chrome mirror over any gloss paint. I have been using it over gloss black metalizer which is laquer.
  12. What exactly is an explosion-proof fan and where can one be obtained?
  13. I have tried using the backside of a new Exacto blade, but with poor results. I have seen the 'hooked-shape' blades, I think they are P.E. Opening the trunk or doors, the engraved lines are already there. Thanks
  14. I used a second hand furnace fan, 150cfm. It cost about $35 with shipping.
  15. Thanks Mr. O., Phil, and Steve. Beautiful dashboards, Mr. Obsessive! You could not have made it any easier for me. Thanks
  16. I know there are some for various Mopar dashboards. Maybe I could use some of those, modified. Thanks
  17. The box of the '62 Bel Air (Don Nicholson's) seems to show the color of the Z-11 valve covers to be Chevy engine red. Is this correct? Thanks
  18. I found some nice Aoshima wheels, but they don't come with tires. What to do? Any suggestions? Thanks
  19. Thank you Ranchero Steve for the link to Slixx Decals.

  20. Some of these seat belt kits have P.E. pieces that need to be bent. A friend at the club recommended 'tools' in the beading-dept. at Hobby Lobby. I looked at them and I do not know if they are ideal. What do you think? Can anybody recommend some bending-tools? Thanks
  21. Thanks for all the input. I think I will call Dremel.
  22. I am looking for a cordless. The chuck that is part of the motor, is stripped, won't hold a bit. Thanks for any input.
  23. I'll be watching this build. Have always loved the '68 Cobra Jet factory drag car.
  24. I know the Parts Box in Australia offers a pretty good one, but too expensive. I could buy a whole kit, which is do-able, but which kit? Something in 1/24 scale. Seems like there should be one 'after market' for like 10-12 bucks. Thanks
  25. Hi AFX and dragcarz. Thanks for the replies. AFX, the "Gold Rush" pictured, does not have a K-member. The original '65 Mopar AFX vehicles (Plymouth and Dodge) retained both the K-frame and the torsion-bars, which had to be extended. And dragcarz, I am building a (Gibson) street hemi engine, and I was thinking of using a deep sump Milodon pan. Now, I WILL use it, and paint it yellow! So thanks very much, again!
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