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MikeMc

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Everything posted by MikeMc

  1. Thanks guys.....I might get a smidge more in the front....but not much. I am grinding a little of the middle crossmember bolts.....I do want to cut this up soooooo bad....But this one is by Jairus...so no chop!!
  2. Great start Tom.....I'm gonna watch yours
  3. Just had to see whats going on........looks like we are getting close..........
  4. This thread will take you to the build!!!
  5. Before: After: also sanded off the door locks and filled the handle holes with a bit of sprue
  6. Time flys ...I have a gotten lots done....just not much to show...yet. As the picture shows this one is a real grounddragger...so I am doing a body and frame drop/ channel. What the majority of time has been spent on is figuring how to do it. I started with milling some slots in the body floor pan, along with filing down the tabs where the pan mounts to the frame. This made it necessary to open up a hole over the rear end and grind out the tunnel for drive shaft clearance. Since the dremel was on I clearances the rear wheel wells to give tire clearance up top. Now I removed the rear bumper mounts from the frame and will mount them to the body later. At this point I cut equal amounts from the 6 tabs on the body and checked my fit...more sanding of the top and edge of the rear wheel wells was needed to get things to level out . Next I am mounting the front clip to the body so I can start the front end. The wheels are going to work behind the skirts.....it will look great....more pictures coming... Note: I've got theback done now I will do the front and when it sits sweet I will figgure out the firewall and finish the tunnel I did find it needed grinding 1/2 off the trans mount and the front motor mount to get everything to sit level.....and the tunnel itself
  7. if you are saying you have a set of warped 2 pc slicks...?? I would say to replace them with a set from Comp Resin, rather than fixing those, look here: http://www.ecsvr.com/slx/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=4&subcat=142&cat=Tires I have used a few sets of these tires and like them
  8. Yep go to Freds......... http://www.fredsresinworkshop.com/Wheels.htm
  9. Sweet.....is that riv behind sunrise pearl???
  10. This is what I think of when you say DUCKS........Ahhhhh summertime in the Dells............... and when you talk about the other ducks..I think of Milwaukee's own "Gertie"
  11. As many have stated..no primer needed under metalizers. I have found that if I prime first do my parting lines and seams reprime and polish the primer I get a nice smooth finish. Bob Downies book on airbrushing has a great chapter on using metalizers... just not on a car though!! Bob also believes in a smooth primed surface....it does make a difference!!
  12. I think it was Fred and Barney
  13. Ahhhhhhhhhhh........Ben....you owe the rat now
  14. will this fit here?
  15. Dave you hit it square on the head,,,,,,C'mon Nick...time to grow....if Kevin could.......
  16. Hey Rick.....I have some inside help on this one....so far the info is spot on and if it keeps working out it will be as low as shown!!!And yes it will be a Killer Tangelo Orange Pearl...more pictures coming!!
  17. if it does'nt adhere to the model I don't care what it looks like. Acrylics are a wonderful medium in which to work,that said they also seem to be the toughest to use as each brand seems to have its own quirks. I have sprayed Tamiya bottle acrylics thinned with tamiya thinner and gotten perfect results. Water will slow down the drying process which has a tendency to produce runs and poor adhesion to high spots, while using alcohol works just the opposite, causing uneven color on uneven surfaces. The tamiya thinner which I think is high priced, does seem to work the best every time for airbrushing......for hand brushing take your choice!!! they all seem to work there
  18. What caught my eye was flat black and clear..... I would suggest shooting the lighter color first then masking for the flat black and shooting it last...are you using tamiya thinner? that could be the problem with adhesion. I use Tamiya tape and have had no issues
  19. I agree with Mark I found them in the $30. area at both model express, and model roundup.... now I need the delivery!!
  20. Will, may you and Ed share in the peace of the Lord.
  21. Thanks Tom...after getting this kit and seeing the detail..I feel it was the best $30. I've spent in a long time... The wheels are always a pain in the rear...but I think I've got them now.
  22. Thanks Tom.....just click on the picture for a link!!
  23. Hubs were opened up and narrowed....gonna try to use the kits drums.....not much room. also narrower the front axle stubs....tires will now tuck in grinding down body mounts and notching the pan for the chassis to fit up into.....more grinding needed.
  24. One more try.........
  25. At this point I mocked up the body and frame with the stock wheel/tires....not bad, but I am gonna have to drop the body more.... I am in the process of milling the new wheels and axles so the track will fit the body...I am also going to drop the stock body mounts and lower the frame more. More pictures to come........
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