MikeMc

To drop the rear way down I will grind off the bump stops on the frame and file a shallow C notch to let the axel up Now the spring mounts on the springs and frame need relief....do not forget the underside of the spring packs....lots hanging down that will grind!!

First task is to lower the suspension front and rear. The kit does have provisions to lower it right out of the box,reversed spindles in the front and blocks in the rear. As I'm using different wheel/tires than the kit I will cut down the front coil springs and play with the spindles to get the correct height without bottoming out

I'm gonna try this one again. This is my WIP 1947 Aerosedan lowrider AKA The Bomb....as drawn by Jairus Watson starting with this kit and a set of Pegasis #1109 chrome DZ wheels with a narrow whitewall this is where we will go.

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Great idea...love the Mohawk Warrior...how are you going to do the spinners and neon??

I do like those colors and theme.........

another thought...lower the front....will give you the rake...looks more normal...smaller wheel/tire or move the spindles up a bit

I've used the Chroma Clear and the tamiya ts13 also. Many internet sources sell it..shipping can be an issue though. I have a good friend who paints 1:1...its his Chroma Clear leftovers I get and it is mixed per the instructions...I shoot at 22 to 25psi I noticed that your from Maine...the total opposite of where I live. As a result the info I would give you would be next to useless as the environment is totally different. But I would say in your area (cold weather / heaters ) the fumes are quite nasty and toxic and much more dangerous than lacquers. I assume you are using a respirator already.. .if not GET ONE NOW!!!!!!!.If you are venting your booth outdoors the fumes for others will dissipate. if your shooting in the basement....do not use the urethanes......I shoot a lot of the HOK colors that are urethane...but do not add hardener, just clear it with lacquer, as we are talking models. The results that urethane clears give you are quick and easy.......but think safety first.

Enough time wasted....hit us Harry..........

You better watch it pardner.......

which one is Tim............?

the fade is the easy part of this.......tribal graphics in scale are a real challenge!

Its the Quality of the build.......... the other one does do the snap kits

Glenn at my age I think I'll stick with MCM

10 min or so if your misting coats......the thinner it goes on the quicker it will set.

I've streched and shortened my share of frames. The trick in the final work is the simple stuff. Mark it well.....so you know where to cut Measure twice, not me......... I usually do it 3 or 4 times! CUT IT SQUARE.......use your sharpest Zona.......WHY????? SO you can glue it square.......Tenax or bondine will work.....pins on the workbench work for me......nothing moves!!!! Done correctly no pins needed in the frame.....

For me..duplacolor primers and sealer, BC26 white HOK base if spraying light colors........like this Merc. Diamond Dust and Lime Ice

Harry.......I know that moderating is a tireless task, with little or no rewards. But Big Guy...go in and ask that lonely soul.....WAS UP?????

Keep it coming Jason.......no toothpaste on this one!!!!

I lived there too!!!

you gotta tell us more about the toothbondo!!! Did it really work?

Now you gotta cut down the interior panels.....hint cut from the bottom

For airbrushing use Tamiya thinner...it flows much better, you can thin with water or alcohol...the tamiya thinner does work best. Thin to what 2 % milk is like , you can use it over or under enamels. No lacquer thinner in it. Most important is to clean the airbrush immediately after spraying...it will get as hard as a rock inside.

Don Welcome to the forum......I like your attitude!! You will do fine using your ideas ....use your sense not ours!! Build what you feel comfortable with..and push it ..........just a smidge......more for the next build....and of course come here to show us!!