MikeMc

Too Much work.....Put the Turkey in the freezer, pour into glass, sip and enjoy

Not Stupid at all. You need small drill bits...these range in size from #1 - #80. A couple of pin vises and your set. You can get pin vises many places...the middle one has 4 collets and you move them in the handle as you need the different sizes. A word of caution about the dremel...GO EASY as you're working in plastic. Where to run the wires and hoses??..Google the car your building and go from there!

Sure no sweat......follow my photobucket link..look for Merc. BTW whats your name??....should be posted

Is the putty too stiff w/o hardener? I would suggest using the bondo professional 2 part glazing putty

What "board" are we bashing.....this is the straight skinny....posted there first??????

Copied this from elsewhere.....you can tell by the source........ Thanks to Tim Kidwell of Model Retailer for sharing this E-mail from Jody Keener of Lindberg: Ernie [Petit] retired in January of this year at 75; a much-deserved man finally enjoying his own time after 53 years in the business. I have taken over his position and this is my 43rd year in the business. J. Lloyd [parent company] is and has always been the owner of Hawk Models and Lindberg, ever since Ernie was managing it. I assure you these rumors started with an employee [who] was let go and unhappy. Lindberg and Hawk is alive and well, and has moved 100 percent of all production back to the USA. We have a factory that I own in Kalkaska, Michigan, 100,000 square feet that is a 24/6 facility. J. Lloyd has over $25 million in inventory, no bank debt, and is going nowhere anytime soon. We have cut about 40 of the 150 new items planned, due to not enough support to move forward on. I have heard rumors from the factory burning to the ground and losing all the tooling; Ernie leaving as a result of frustration; and no stock/warehouse empty – all of which is lies. Jim Haught

I would guess that PAPAFO is the name Rick is called by kids / grandkids....... Always makes me think of Milwaukee's own "MOFOCO"....its a VW shop Wickapedia said : Pau, a type of steamed bun from China http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pau

Over the TOP Raul!!!!! Incredible as always!!!!

I'm gonna follow this one.....I LOVE Lyles build...but the color is just too bright. Look at a parts pack 427 ford, I think Jairus used Pegasis wheels on this one too. Send J a pm...he will let you know.

Flash???????? (Im not telling about BMF)

Well done as always!!..I think the camera angles are the culprit...the body looks spot on!!!

I'm not too quick anyhow....regular is fine by me.

Looks to be a 1950 Studebaker Commander Starlight Coupe heres a neat place!! Studebakers

NEVER FORGET

Nothing to say but Thank You!

Keep it simple NICKS TOWING.....IF YOU DON'T LIKE IT....ITS GONE!

But Ford did not borrow to save the brand...hard but smart decision making I just bought another Sable...just a Taurus rebadged.....

This is gonna be stunning......hurry up!!!!!

Lookin great Bruce.....I figure you will have the first completed entry!!!

Nothing like a polarizer filter to show the tint......

Lets go Harry...ROM and Shine!!!!!!

Sorta like "Jim Bob"

Well thought out Kyle. couple of thoughts. I have the micro mark booth and it uses the 3 filter set, including the carbon filter. I shoot a lot of lacquers and this booth still leaves that smell, unless I vent out the window or thru the inside dryer / water vent. Cost of replacement components kills me on this booth. I got mine well below the list price, but the filter media never seems to be on sale. I feel that the reason is the Drag the 3 filter setup places on the fans. As far as design a back/down draft will make the solids and VOC removal quicker....for models(not 1:1 )The back draft pulled down (sorta badger/pace like) with a well thought out plenum design should work better if your in a small booth enviroment....good luck with your idea!!

As my choice of primers is the unavailable,over priced, baby smooth always...Tamiya, I have switched over to duplacolor as I have used their sealer primer with great results. Thus said The trick to using them is the same as ALL SPRAY PAINTS Make sure its well shook....3 to 5 min if its been sitting!!! But it needs warmth to flow and atomize correctly. If you can keep the paint and booth between 78 an 82 degrees F you might be surprised how well it works. I have airbrushed it and just do not get a wide enough pattern unless I use my big touch up gun.....not worth it for primer. You do turn the can upside down and clear the nozzle don't you??..The blue tips are usually trouble free...the pin can be the culprit....rare but 2 tips out of hundreds used....I will not complain.....although I never had a bad Tamiya nozzel.....

no valve stems on the tires.........