MikeMc

Art....that post and builds are worth pinning...WOW (and the glass is bulletproof!)

http://www.hotrod.co..._job/index.html For the past couple of years a rumor has been circulating around the Internet that there is a way to paint your car using common enamel paint and-get this-a roller, and end up with a car that's as slick as a traditional spray job. After a good full-body cringe, our curiosity took over and we began digging around to find out more about the legend of the roller paint job. The search eventually led us back to a post on the Moparts.com (www.moparts.com) message board that had been on going for a year and a half with over 100 pages. Basically the story goes that common Rust-Oleum (or Tremclad in Canada), when thinned to an extreme, can be applied to a car with high-density foam rollers, and after several layers, a few sessions of wet-sanding, and some quality time with a high-speed buffer, the final result is a very presentable paint job with a tiny monetary investment. We read the whole post and it still sounded like little more than urban legend-but a few guys had posted photos of their excellent results and it made us reconsider. Could it actually be true? There was only one way to find out, so we selected a victim from the dozen or so cars loitering behind the HOT ROD shop and prepared to put the theory to the test. As you will see here, it works. The end result blows the minds of anyone who sees the car, and you'd never guess in a million years that it was painted with Rust-Oleum, a roller, and a few spray cans. Be advised, however, that there was plenty of elbow grease used on this project. Any paint job, even the high-end type that comes out of a gun and paint booth, requires loads of pre-prep to get the body straight and a considerable amount of post-paint work to color-sand and buff the paint to its highest gloss. This method is no different-but man, you can't beat the price. I DON"T BELIEVE IT !!!!!!!...sure looks good!!

Fred Sudlow....Freds Resin has some that are close....His site is down now...but should be up again soon He does dirt track wheels..some of them look close http://fredsresinworkshop.com/

Nobody has ever posted a" WHY TO" with a how to about this

Great info.....But one question...What benefit does shooting in Manual mode give over aperture priority ? I cannot give you one except it will take more time to shoot. If the meter is telling you what speed to shoot at...it will set it in AP mode...The largest problem is knowing where your camera focuses...read your manual so you can set it correctly. Auto focus works off of contrast...move it a bit, lock focus, recompose and shoot Many current cameras have multi zone focus capibilities...explore them!! I've shot in AP mode with fill flash for years.....I can AE bracket expose if the scene will fool the meter, rarely with a car but common with a dio...I will pop my grey card ,into the scene...it tells me to bracket.....Which I rarely need on autos I will still preach to use your flash....outdoors on a sunny day. Why, you ask....its called fill flash, and with todays digital cameras the camera does it all!! BUT...some will not allow fill in macro mode..(cause the flash head is at the wrong angle and uneven exposure can result. No more flash meters to set all the lights for ratios needed, just a well lighted image done automatically. I still love real photography with silver halide, fixed lenses , and manual exposures....That said my digital is so much quicker and easier vs my 35mm or 6x7 cameras...Results....almost the same....really depends on which school you belong to

Gotta agree with G...100% custom, but so subtle you really don't know what was done!!!! Foose did the front wheels on his own Effie and it makes a HUGE difference!! Three thumbs up :D

Its really Harrys call....I sent him a few, and sent that later.....he wanted it!.....I think he still has a few others left....

So how do you lift it up to slid those decals under...... :P

That shocks me Mark! You are usually the bandleader!!

I thought the "shaved" look was cool....I like the cabriolet better than the sedan! http://www.autowp.ru/picture/415288

Thats why I posted it here....as a newbie, I gotta learn these things. I'm thinking of doing just the front wall, and the kit only comes with the fixed doors. As the idea is a old weatherbeaten tin roof shed in the woods..It don't need any doors I am making a lift off roof, not sure if I'm going to truss it or just go flat and pitch it for drainage.... Thanks for the input!!

Yes I have...you are correct, as this is 1/2 " scale those walls would be thicker in scale what I was thinking was to make the inner walls thicker with some "sheet" brick glued up inside, but the corners will fight me... I'm fighting through many ideas as this is my first try...too many ideas , not enough space and $$

This turned out well for my first time...I will still need to do a black wash and detail paint the trim and interior....heres a few more shots I used a bit more brown on the doors,may go back and salt them if the mood hits me...I love the mortar lines with this style of painting. Edit...I have since repainted these walls with much more of the green The Yellow was causing color balance problems with flash..I will update as soon as paint permits me to.

Have had success with the base and adding rock at the bottom of the hills....still a lot more work there. But I did test fit the building together and after a good coat of T235 grey primer on both sides...which looks like concrete / mortar I went to the craft paint section at Michaels and splurged.....3 @$2.00 Then it was off to the kitchen where I cut off a piece of sponge or three, grabbed some paper plates, latex glove , and the back wall of the building...if it wasn't going to work, I could hide it better out back! Started it off with yellow...I went too light the first coat, as the paint being flat really was opaque and light...when I liked that I went to the pea green...and then bits of brown here and there...I had to slow down on the brown...just needed a bit...I can re hit the yellow and green if needed to tone things down

I suspect it is due to lack of clearance due to the flywheel and steering column locations, With the pedals so far forward, I suspect a bell crank was used to tie front and rear brakes together and let the brakes have full adjustment.

With putty, I will use 220. For normal bodywork, 400 amd 600 wet /dry....might want 800 for some paints finishing paint, 1200 and 2000 wet, followed by Novus 2 or Meguires Scratch X You can get a lot finer grits for polishing....lots more worry and work....Novus 2 will smooth out most fine scratches

I've been searching for that book wthout any luck. This will hold me for a while Thanks to Ken, John, and Mercman!!!

Sounds pretty smart to me. I'm doing a 50 Ford COE and the hood is being scratched, if it wasn't for the 5 pictures taped around the bench I wouldn't be close. I also use Photo shop to cut, chop, and section things...valuable tool!! As far as seeing flaws in the models....I find them more often in the final pictures......go figgure

George, Bill didn't use that picture, thats not your memory....I have a copy of the one he did use!!

Thats what I said when I got the answer, I was shocked, but then in modeling all sorts of stuff can be had! This is the place that gave me the info....look at 1/2" scale stuff (our 1/24th) http://miniaturedesigns.com/shop/

You do love yourself. I'm now an import hater???.....And it was one Ford replica picture I posted vs 3 VW pictures...You are baiting me with your behavior...so go take a time out and come back.....no you don't have to, but I'm sure you will..... and judging by your misspelling of my name...you need specs!

Need to keep a building or structure square while it sets up? I learned a trick from a dollhouse and miniature set builder...Use "LEGOS" stack alternating 90 's and you only need 1 good square and a measure to set things at 90 degrees I built a stack of them to hold walls square and it is a great tip.

Not to argue with you sir....as is your intent. As I Quote..... (" the bandwagon hopping cry babies that have ruined it. am i calling you names, maybe? are you offended? no, i'm not sorry and no i'm not going to apologize.") If you have followed the engineering conversation the answer is there...Old school, with modern engineering....same as the original bug vs 2012 Don't argue with me to start your game Dave.......I have 6 less posts on this topic than you do....I found a quote and found it to be a good topic as others have proven in this thread... :unsure:

No need to...Factory Five has redone the '33...lookin quite fine with the modular motor in it And thanks to the engineering team that builds these.....I have ridden in both a FF cobra and the real deal... The FF is a lot more fun to drive!!